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Now all you need is a port in the garage door to run the hose out, service station style.... Then you can start the tractor and let it warm up while keeping the door closed.

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Thats suprising how much the 1025R smokes...That is more smoke in one start up , than has emanated from my 1026R in 5 years...:dunno:
I was thinking that too, granted mine on had 177 hours but it’s just one puff and then clears right up.


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My 790 smokes bad if I don’t hold the glow plugs on long enogh. It is annoying. Great idea I would have to get a really long hose from where I park mine.
 

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Thats suprising how much the 1025R smokes...That is more smoke in one start up , than has emanated from my 1026R in 5 years...:dunno:
I don't want to appear to be critical of the video idea or it's proposed solution, but I thought the same thing, to be honest about the amount of smoke shown. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fuel used or perhaps an additive in the fuel or even a lack of the same? That is a LOT of smoke and leads me to wonder if something is not right.

My tractor smokes a little at cold start up, but nothing like that shown in the video. My tractor in a cold start up smokes about what was shown in the "restart" of the tractor in this video. A restart of my tractor and I usually don't notice much if any smoke.

(A.) - Just curious, when you park the tractor in the garage, When turning off the ignition key, Do you have the engine operating at idle or is it shutoff wherever you were operating the engine speed?

(B.)- Do you have the tractor at a higher RPM range and then move it down to idle and immediately shut if off, or does it idle for several seconds before being shut down?

(C.)- Do you use an engine preheater (plug your tractor in)? Is the smoke about the same year around, or worse in the winter?

I do think both A & B likely have an impact on possibly leaving un-burnt fuel in the cylinders for the next engine start up, which is likely to result in more smoke. C is going to require less pre heat time and should help with cold starting in the winter months, making combustion as efficient as possible at cold start up compared to not using the engine pre heater.

I did wonder when I saw the video why the tractor was back inside the building so far from the door if the smoke is a concern / problem, which with that amount of smoke, I can understand why it is a concern / problem for smoke remaining in the garage.

I park the blade just inside the over head door (less than 6 inches) and when I get in the cab, I open the over head door with the remote button on my dash and turn the key for the tractor. By time the pre heat of the glow plugs is complete, the overhead door is fully open, the dash gauges have cycled and I have remembered to shift the transfer case into neutral and I have turned my music on (hey, important things too). Then I turn the key and start it up.

What little smoke there is, evacuates since the blade it right at the overhead door. I then pull the tractor out of the garage and close the overhead door when I am getting out of the cab to rotate my safety light into the up position to clear the top of the cab. I try to develop and keep a routine just to avoid forgetting something (like lowering the light before backing into the garage). Plus our garage stays about 45 to 50 degrees in the winter and I am trying to minimize heat loss with leaving the door open.

Again, not being critical of the video, your smoking issue or the proposed solution, I am Just curious to your answers to A, B and C. Thanks.........SB
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi, to answer a few questions. I don't have a pre-heater. It was cold today also about 19 so it was a chilly start. I do use the JD additive but I am likely 1/2 way between the winter and summer stabilizer but considering the posts on here about the smoke issue I don't think its super unusual.

I did use the trick on here about doing the preheat twice and that definitely helped. I don't believe the machine has any faults or such but it's worse in winter for sure.

I appreciate all the feedback and watching my videos!

Thanks
 

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I was thinking that too, granted mine on had 177 hours but it’s just one puff and then clears right up.


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I don't know how these 1-series are supposed to be....but in the first cold start that engine was stumbling terribly. That is where most of the smoke is coming from.

Maybe just different than my 2-series but mine fires perfectly on all cylinders no matter how cold. Of course a little smoke but nothing like that.

It looked to me like the glow plugs weren't working at all or if they are it isn't right.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now all you need is a port in the garage door to run the hose out, service station style.... Then you can start the tractor and let it warm up while keeping the door closed.

View attachment 510001
I had originally planned to buy one of these and they fit that hose perfectly......but I am a bit too nervous that it could come off. Remember when they use these on cars often times they are blower assisted and the auto pipe can usually slide 10+ inches onto the pipe. With the bend in the JD, you only get a few which is why this cuff is really great but I wouldn't recommend trusting the friction fit for a closed room setup.

Could it work? I believe so but for safety and this situation I wouldn't use that but I am sure it could be improved for a pemrnant solution like you said.

Thank you for watching the video and please check out my other or subscribe I have a lot of unusual topics and such around machines and mechanical work.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thats suprising how much the 1025R smokes...That is more smoke in one start up , than has emanated from my 1026R in 5 years...:dunno:
I remember the dealer had told me the emissions differences on the 1025 are much worse for this. But its much better in summer. I don't use the hose setup then with the mowing deck on, it is very minimal.
 

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I don't know how these 1-series are supposed to be....but in the first cold start that engine was stumbling terribly. That is where most of the smoke is coming from.

Maybe just different than my 2-series but mine fires perfectly on all cylinders no matter how cold. Of course a little smoke but nothing like that.

It looked to me like the glow plugs weren't working at all or if they are it isn't right.
I agree Stan, something amiss there, mine is nice and smooth even at very cold temps.


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Hi, to answer a few questions. I don't have a pre-heater. It was cold today also about 19 so it was a chilly start. I do use the JD additive but I am likely 1/2 way between the winter and summer stabilizer but considering the posts on here about the smoke issue I don't think its super unusual.
This has nothing to do with the smoke but the general consensus is that you can simplify your fuel handling and use the JD winter fuel protect formula all year long. I used to use summer and winter formulas and always went into winter with some left over summer treated fuel which I would then dump into our heating oil tank and start over.

Then I read several places where the JD summer and winter additives are identical except the winter formula has one extra ingredient which is of no consequence during the summer.

So for the past 2 years I have been using the winter formula all year and it has simplified my fuel handling.
 

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I cleared my drive today with my 1025. temps were down to single digits the last couple nights, but up to 32 when I started up. Mine smoked and stumbled just as bad as this one, but mine cranked faster than that. I had cycled the glows three times.
Even in summer mine stumbles and smokes if only for a few seconds on a cold start.
 

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I like your idea as a way to help keep the garage smoke/soot/odor free!

Living in the cold north woods of WI, I can tell you that the amount of smoke a 1025r can make on a COLD start up can be amazing! I keep the tractor in an attached, but unheated, garage. If I don't plug in the block heater 1/2 an hour before going out to blow snow, mine will make more than silvercymbal's.... I was reluctant to get the block heater when buying the tractor, but the dealer strongly suggested it, and I'm so glad I got it!!! Even when the garage temp is 40°, it still smokes and shakes if I don't plug it in first..


A block heater and patience.....:bigthumb:
 
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Another solution...

My solution to the exhaust fumes in the garage is shown in this post. I do have to park close to the garage door, but this solution is very effective. The air in my garage is warm, and during the cold months it rolls out at the top of doors for a while after they are opened. The exhaust hits this stream and follows it right out the door. I'm going to get a video one day this winter. It's pretty amazing to watch.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I cleared my drive today with my 1025. temps were down to single digits the last couple nights, but up to 32 when I started up. Mine smoked and stumbled just as bad as this one, but mine cranked faster than that. I had cycled the glows three times.
Even in summer mine stumbles and smokes if only for a few seconds on a cold start.
I really like the multiple glow trick, definitely makes a difference!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My solution to the exhaust fumes in the garage is shown in this post. I do have to park close to the garage door, but this solution is very effective. The air in my garage is warm, and during the cold months it rolls out at the top of doors for a while after they are opened. The exhaust hits this stream and follows it right out the door. I'm going to get a video one day this winter. It's pretty amazing to watch.
I wish I had that. I have tried to open both my doors and a side door and a lot of times I get a good breeze but it feels like on the coldest mornings the air can be absolutely dead and that smoke will stay around for even an hour in there. I can usually still smell it after a few hours too, so for me I needed more. We need air :laugh:
 

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I see nothing abnormal with silvercimbal's 1025R. Starting a diesel in the cold will cause un-burned fuel which is what causes the white smoke and rough running after initial start up.

The glow plug system that is used on the 1025R doesn't sense ambient or engine temperature. The glow plugs cycle the same length of time each time the ignition is turned on, hot or cold.

When the engine and ambient temps are low, the easiest thing to do is cycle the glow plugs 2 or 3 times (or more) before starting the engine. This will minimize the smoke and rough running considerably simply because the cylinder is pre-heated more.

If you live in a colder climate (where the temps are below 30 degrees F continually), a good option is a block heater.

Also, if you park your tractor outside (under roof) as opposed to inside (even in an unheated garage), this condition will be worse.
 

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I agree Stan, something amiss there, mine is nice and smooth even at very cold temps.


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I really like the multiple glow trick, definitely makes a difference!
I've owed a 2210 ,a 2305 both great when starting them in the winter months. Turn the key to preheat it stayed on for thinking 10-15 secs. :bigthumb:

Bought the 1026 , changed Mother Deere changed to a lower time for preheat but still do able. :bigthumb::dunno:

Then they came out with the 1025r Big PIA. pre heater is down to I think 3 secs.. it will smoke like he showed everytime in the winter as he posted.
If you turn the key on and off (each time going thru the cycle) it will start with a little shake or smoke. :banghead::banghead:

Now the new series 1 they have changed the cycle time, if you want this on the older series 1 need to buy a new dashboard to get tractor to run OK at startup. :banghead::banghead:

Or use the engine heater, over the past 15 yrs or so only had 2 tractors with engine heater and only used them maybe 5 times total. :dunno:
 
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