Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Came across this ad on eBay from Redland Hill, a company that manufactures the "HandiHitch" (see http://www.redlandhill.com/drawbars.html ):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-POINT-DRAWBAR-HITCH-JOHN-DEERE-iMATCH-Quick-Hitch-/300340370037?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45edae5a75

Am wondering about using a hitch like this, versus just using a drawbar (which I realize will turn, "spin" in the lift arm connectors)? Seems one could just lock a drawbar into the iMatch hitch (or, just put it into the lift arm connectors directly), and accomplish the same thing?

Or, maybe the 2-inch receiver hitches are the way to go (which seem to have the drawback of no holes in the drawbar to just hook an implement, too, directly, unless one keeps taking the ball off the receiver hitch)?

Advantages, disadvantages of each type? Appreciate any shared experiences, help in this matter!! I realize this depends on how large a trailer, etc. one is lugging around, size of tractor, etc ... have a small trailer (and, rather small implements... making my way from Cat 0 to Cat 1 sized implements, adapting to my new 1026R).

Have come to realize that the "drawbar" on the 1026R is not very useful.. as the PTO shaft is in the way for hooking anything like a trailer to it... so, guess one has to go to using the link arms to pull and tow with...
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,254 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,593 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Receiver Hitches, Old Truck Receivers and Welding

First a question please...Do you weld or have a friend that welds? This is a great DIY project, and you can get things like old truck receiver hitches cheap or even free.

I made mine years ago, then re-did it a few months ago, here is a thread on it: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?968-Heavy-Hitch&highlight=heavy

I also do not believe the Redland one is iMatch compatible either if you have one.

Yes, I do weld... have both an arc and mig welder. Don't have the acetylene for cutting the iron (I guess could use the arc welder, or, maybe the Sawzall will work!), though... a problem. Had not thought about the junk yard route to a receiver... great idea! Problem is, iron is also expensive... although can perhaps raid my brother's (a farmer) trees for some old machinery iron. Now if I can just find the time...

On Redland, they are now making an iMatch compatible (ad claims such, confirmed by a phone call to them) HandiHitch. They lowered the upper cross/support iron (looking at pictures of the older/other version) to accomodate the top hook on the iMatch (which I have), so, it should work.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I did look at your design earlier... got me to wondering about pulling a heavier trailer (loaded with sand or dirt) with the 3-point fully raised? It would seem there would be less stress on the lift arms (i.e. draft links) if more parallel with the trailer hitch/load? I can see your point about the potential for a load becoming unbalanced, or a terrain shift or some such, and the 3-point jumping up... not a good deal, dangerous. As you point out, your design is safer. Also, I like the various adjustments you have for height, etc (and I see the LandPride also appears to have an adjustment for the upper hook? How is that used??)

Am not used to thinking about pulling heavy loads with 3-point hitches... have always used the traditional tractor drawbar...so, am learning. And, this 1026R does not have a drawbar... only a plate with a couple of holes in it, tucked under the PTO shaft... not functional (wondering if JD, or someone else, makes a regular drawbar, even swinging, for it??). My old Satoh Beaver S-370 at least has a regular drawbar (and I use a drawbar in the 3-point Cat 0, too, but only for very light loads, like a small tow-behind Fimco sprayer... which works great, because can raise it up to keep the suction hose toward the back of the tank "buried" in the spray water!... and great for clean out).

What kind of loads can this 1026R 3-point handle, I wonder... as in pulling a trailer with the 3-point. Perhaps only a ton or so? The operators manual has lift capacities, but I don't see anything about pulling capacity...
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,254 Posts
It's good to hear they are making it compatible with QH's now-every OEM needs to do that, there are specs written so why not just follow them.

Pulling is relative, it's what it can stop is the problem. Your 1026 I am sure could pull thousands of pounds in low gear...but could it stop that? I suspect not. If you operate on flat level ground your probably OK, but it's easy for the trailer to start pushing the tractor around when it weighs more.

There is no "drawbar" available for these tractors, just like there was none for the 2210's and 2305's

Since you can weld-I think you should make one. How do you have to welders and no way to cut steel? Metal has gone up in price for sure, but there really is not much to these things, especially if you can get a hitch like I mentioned. Some 1/4" by 3" flat bar is all that's needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
heavyhitch

How about this hitch? www.heavyhitch.com You can haul stuff and also have a weight bracket.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,254 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It's good to hear they are making it compatible with QH's now-every OEM needs to do that, there are specs written so why not just follow them.

Pulling is relative, it's what it can stop is the problem. Your 1026 I am sure could pull thousands of pounds in low gear...but could it stop that? I suspect not. If you operate on flat level ground your probably OK, but it's easy for the trailer to start pushing the tractor around when it weighs more.

There is no "drawbar" available for these tractors, just like there was none for the 2210's and 2305's

Since you can weld-I think you should make one. How do you have to welders and no way to cut steel? Metal has gone up in price for sure, but there really is not much to these things, especially if you can get a hitch like I mentioned. Some 1/4" by 3" flat bar is all that's needed.
Good points.... do cut steel/iron with a Sawzall, smaller stuff.... and, yes, just need to get to it (including buying that cutting torch), building and modifying.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,254 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
cat 0 or cat 1 heavy hitch

Nice hitch....need to build one like this... thanks!
Hey Gary---since you already have the 1026r---do you think it should take a Cat. 1 or a Cat 0 Heavy
Hitch? They offer both sizes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
Cat 1 or Cat. 0 Heavy Hitch

Do you think the 1026r should use a Cat 1 or Cat 0 Heavy Hitch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
That's the one I copied when I redid mine in the thread I referenced above. I like it!
I may make one too. Is the bottom part that the pins are on and that the receiver is welded to a piece of tubing or angle iron? I am wondering how you would tighten the nuts on the pins...
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,254 Posts
I may make one too. Is the bottom part that the pins are on and that the receiver is welded to a piece of tubing or angle iron? I am wondering how you would tighten the nuts on the pins...
Mine is made from tube. I tack-welded the nuts to the endplates before welding them on.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top