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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace two exterior doors,, both are on outbuildings. I need help deciding which to buy.

I lost both doors because I did not have gutters, splashing water rotted both doors.

Mostly, the need for doors is to keep leaves from blowing in,, :laugh:
Thermal performance is of no concern.

Better security would be nice.

What I have found so far is;
Both types of door are priced similarly.
Both are considered better than wood.

My wife likes the shaker style 6 pane door, so the style is pretty much set.

So, should I get steel, or fiberglass!!?? :dunno:
 

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I need to replace two exterior doors,, both are on outbuildings. I need help deciding which to buy.

I lost both doors because I did not have gutters, splashing water rotted both doors.

Mostly, the need for doors is to keep leaves from blowing in,, :laugh:
Thermal performance is of no concern.

Better security would be nice.

What I have found so far is;
Both types of door are priced similarly.
Both are considered better than wood.

My wife likes the shaker style 6 pane door, so the style is pretty much set.

So, should I get steel, or fiberglass!!?? :dunno:
Steel is what I recommend and use. The door will last forever. Its the jambs that are the issue. We wrap everything with aluminum including the brickmold. Keep it sealed (where the aluminum wrap meets the jamb and threshold) and it will outlive you. Neglect it and you will be very disappointed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Steel is what I recommend and use. The door will last forever. Its the jambs that are the issue. We wrap everything with aluminum including the brickmold. Keep it sealed (where the aluminum wrap meets the jamb and threshold) and it will outlive you. Neglect it and you will be very disappointed.

When I was at Lowes, I asked about a pre-hung door with non-wood brick mold.
The guy said he could special order it like that,, but,
the up-charge was 5X the price of just buying PVC brick mold, and replacing it.

Yea, the reason the doors are gone is that there were no gutters,,
I have gutters now,, but, I got to do a little better job of keeping the sticks out of the gutters!! :laugh:

I do not want to start this project, until I have a couple good days to get paint on.
But, this is a great time to pre-plan,,,
Pre-plan is another term for finding out what the wife likes!! :flag_of_truce:
 

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We lost a couple of steel doors at the church because of rusting at the bottom and the frame rotted, no porch and storm side of building. Several years ago I ordered the new door with pressure treated wood 2' up from the bottom. Plus the steel was suppose to have a better seal or coating on the paint. :dunno: Cann't remember all the details sorry. Last year we replaced the front door with a fiberglass at the church it has a porch overhead .:dunno:

Guessing 20 yrs ago now inlaws had outside of their house remodeled. We put a Fiberglass door on the front of their house , it has a screen door in front of it , noticed I will need to take the door off this summer and redo the gel stain. Have had no issues with any of them.

If you have a local company that sells windows and doors ask them if they should be able to order the better grade door made for areas like you and I mentioned. IMO for me the big box stores.:dunno: sells person ,don't always know what is going on . So do but are in to big a hurry to take the time and to look up the info , they just have 2 or 3 doors companies they deal with , at least that has always been my feelings from the big box stores. Besides I would rather help the Mom and Pap stores keep their doors open , majority of the time their price is better than Lowes or HD . Just read about 5x times the price for special order brick mold. Ours at the church came with fiberglass brick mold, pressure treated lower half , special coating and better gauge metal for I'm thinking $30-50 more than standard door from Lowes

Lowe charges up the A$$ for any special order item , doesn't matter a door , bathroom or kitchen faucet. Years ago we found a set of Delta faucets for (thinking) $229 at HD but they were out of stock. Couple days later in Lowes same faucet special order over $350.00:banghead::banghead: . A few days later I stopped at a local plumbing and heating business , bought same faucets $175.00.
Over the years I've checked on several items from Lowes , all special order, they were out of this world on price.

IMO Find a local owned business , they can be your best friend for saving you money.

:munch::munch:
 

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If you do not have gutters, go with either steel or fiberglass doors that do not have exposed wood frames between the skins. If the doors have any exposed wood, the wood will rot, no matter what type of skin they have.
 

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Door replacement

I need to replace two exterior doors,, both are on outbuildings. I need help deciding which to buy.

I lost both doors because I did not have gutters, splashing water rotted both doors.

Mostly, the need for doors is to keep leaves from blowing in,, :laugh:
Thermal performance is of no concern.

Better security would be nice.

What I have found so far is;
Both types of door are priced similarly.
Both are considered better than wood.

My wife likes the shaker style 6 pane door, so the style is pretty much set.

So, should I get steel, or fiberglass!!?? :dunno:
I would go with the commercial Steel W/steel frame, With security hinges that can't removed without door being in open position, Then as a matter of security I'd make sure it is a swing out door. As they don't kick in as easily and really difficult to pull open? When exiting from inside much better to swing open than trying to open if something is against it from inside as well.

Just a thought!

Waltmart
 

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If the door will be exposed to direct sunlight in the summer months, go with steel. IME, Fiberglass doors get super-heated to the point where you can't even touch them in the hot summer sun.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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You can try. . .

If they only offered that in a Shaker design,,, :dunno:

I guess,, if you think about it,, that is kinda like a Shaker design,,, simple,,, :bigthumb:


:laugh:
You can try to sell that thought to the decision makers. Good luck with it.

Treefarmer
 

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As stated earlier the JAMBS are probably more important than weather you use steel or fiberglass. Common wood will rot within a few years. Composite jambs and brick mold will last. Therma-tru use to have problems with their doors rusting thru from the inside out. They have gotten better and they sell a composite jamb for their doors. Be aware that Lowes and HD sell Therma-Tru doors but NOT in Therma-Tru jambs. To get a true Therma-Tru door with therma-tru jamb you must special order from either of these or buy thru a local lumber supplier or door supplier.
 

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As stated earlier the JAMBS are probably more important than weather you use steel or fiberglass. Common wood will rot within a few years. Composite jambs and brick mold will last. Therma-tru use to have problems with their doors rusting thru from the inside out. They have gotten better and they sell a composite jamb for their doors. Be aware that Lowes and HD sell Therma-Tru doors but NOT in Therma-Tru jambs. To get a true Therma-Tru door with therma-tru jamb you must special order from either of these or buy thru a local lumber supplier or door supplier.
I really like the Therma-tru door adjustable threshold. With the 4 screws/bolts you can adjust the threshold up or down.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This seems to be like the exterior personnel doors on my shop and they are great!
Leo
I think code requires such a steel door between a garage and living space??
 

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I think code requires such a steel door between a garage and living space??
Code usually requires a door with a 20-minute fire rating between a house and attached garage. Code doesn't require it to be steel but it is easier (and cheaper!) to get that fire rating with a steel door.
 

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As stated earlier the JAMBS are probably more important than weather you use steel or fiberglass. Common wood will rot within a few years. Composite jambs and brick mold will last. Therma-tru use to have problems with their doors rusting thru from the inside out. They have gotten better and they sell a composite jamb for their doors. Be aware that Lowes and HD sell Therma-Tru doors but NOT in Therma-Tru jambs. To get a true Therma-Tru door with therma-tru jamb you must special order from either of these or buy thru a local lumber supplier or door supplier.

The jambs/frames on my doors are in-cased in a poly of some sort. They are framed in wood with this cover on it. No painting required except where I hit it with my walk behind blower years ago :banghead: Other then that they stand up well.
 

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Probably vinyl. There are some very high quality entry doors with vinyl or pvc jambs. ProVia is one such example.High quality and a price point to match. Wrapping with aluminum saves some money and accomplishes similar results if done correctly.
 
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