Fair price for a 45 Loader?

I would say it is probably about right. As mentioned in the other thread it is within $100 of a CTC. The thing is the 45 is one of those things that are rare to pop up. If you buy it and don't like it, you won't loose any money selling it.

Good thing you didn't put where you live because I'll bet there would be people running to go get it in the morning if they knew where it was.

Double check and make sure all of the mounts and brackets are included as they are either expensive or very hard to find apart from the loaders. Also, make sure the loader hasn't been modified as I have seen many which are and that might not be consistent with your use and goals. For example, many cut off the vertical uprights which extend above the hood on the front mounts. Just make sure you know all that should be there and what it should look like......Brackets, bolts, mounts, etc.,.....

What machine are you planning on putting this loader on?

SulleyBear said:

Look at the listings in Tractor House below when you search Model 45 Loaders for John Deere

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From what I've seen online, there are two different 45 loaders that JD manufactured; one is a very old model, like you found on Tractor House, and the newer ones were for the 2002-2012 X-series tractors, which is what mine is. Thank you for watching out for me!

rydplrs said:

Remember the transmission relief valve and lever will add $3-400 if not included.

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I called my local JD dealer and they quoted me $444.79 for the pressure relief valve (not installed). I looked up the valve myself and see one listed for $161.57, but says it also requires a "Free-Wheeling Valve Control Lever", which I've never heard of before. Does anybody know if that control lever is really required and if there would be any difference between the relief valve I found on greenpartstore.com versus the JD dealer?

Tom G said:

That's different than the hydraulic shut-off valve, correct? I was looking to install one of those for my 54" snow blade, but I think the relief valve sounds like something different.

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Yes it is different. You have to pull the seat, the rear fenders and shift the fuel tank out of the way to get to the top of the transaxle. It is the pressure relief that is mounted there.

I think the official name is THRV or something like that it has been a while.

Tom G said:

I called my local JD dealer and they quoted me $444.79 for the pressure relief valve (not installed). I looked up the valve myself and see one listed for $161.57, but says it also requires a "Free-Wheeling Valve Control Lever", which I've never heard of before. Does anybody know if that control lever is really required and if there would be any difference between the relief valve I found on greenpartstore.com versus the JD dealer?

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Yes the free wheeling lever is also needed. The new pressure relief is at least 1" if not more taller. The free wheel lever needs to push down on buttons and they can't clear with the original one. A little hard to explain but when you see the difference between the normal one and the one for the FEL as well as the freewheel lever it makes sense that you need all of it. Long story, yes you need it. Well I guess if you never need to free wheel the machine (push it because it is dead) then you wouldn't need it.

Old valve on bottom new on top.



Top of the transaxle showing which one you replace



New free wheeling lever to allow clearance for the taller relief

@sennister Thank you so much for your response and for including the photos! That makes a lot of sense now!

Another cost I didn't previously plan for was the rear ballast weight. I currently don't have any weights (including no wheel weights) or the Click-N-Go brackets, so that will cost me quite a few hundred more to get started, but I still think this FEL will pay for itself in the end.

Take a look at this thread on another forum. You will recognize where I snagged the photos for you. He had a question that you might run into. I think mine came out in one part but his didn't .


I also reshimmed my implement pressure relief at a later time. I should have done it at the same time rather than go back in later. Maybe see if people need to shim with the 45 FEL. I did on the CTC as it couldn't do much without shimming.

Tom G said:

@sennister Thank you so much for your response and for including the photos! That makes a lot of sense now!

Another cost I didn't previously plan for was the rear ballast weight. I currently don't have any weights (including no wheel weights) or the Click-N-Go brackets, so that will cost me quite a few hundred more to get started, but I still think this FEL will pay for itself in the end.

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Yeah hard to describe but once you got in there it makes sense. Or as they say, a photo is worth a 1000 words. So I guess 3000 in this case.

Ballast is needed. The front axle can't take the load without it. Also do you have a 3pt? I use a 3pt quick release with heavy hitch. Also fluid filled rear tires. Went with winter blend washer fluid.

@sennister No 3pt either (yet), but I hope to eventually add one of those also. This is my first JD, so I'm starting with a empty inventory at this point, aside from the 48" deck, front quick attach, and 54" blade that it came with.


The JD dealer also recommended filling the tires with washer fluid. My ground gets SUPER soggy during the spring, so I may just opt for some removable wheel weights instead so I don't make even deeper ruts.

Tom G said:

I called my local JD dealer and they quoted me $444.79 for the pressure relief valve (not installed). I looked up the valve myself and see one listed for $161.57, but says it also requires a "Free-Wheeling Valve Control Lever", which I've never heard of before. Does anybody know if that control lever is really required and if there would be any difference between the relief valve I found on greenpartstore.com versus the JD dealer?

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Do you have the part number for the THRV? You linked to the free wheel lever above. As far as I know they are all the same. There may be a difference though if 2wd vs 4wd. I don't think so but what was the part number on the one that the dealer quoted you for?

Here is some more info on the change that might help. I think I used an open end wrench. They are so close that a socket was too hard to fit on.


Some reading on the why.


As I suspected there is a difference between 2wd vs 4wd, that was a hunch.