Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It's been almost 3 months since I started working on this deal, but I finally got the 70 home late last night. I purchased it from the son of the man who bought it brand new in 1954. Would that make me the 2nd owner? Anyway, here's the story: They used it farming until they purchased newer bigger tractors. After it was no longer being used for farming, the owner's kids decided to have it painted for a birthday present for their dad. Mistake. He parked it and never used it again because he "liked it the way it was." It's been siting in a field for several years and the cattle have eaten the ignition system wiring off of it. It is a gas tractor with a gas carb, but the previous owners installed a propane regulator and tank and have been running it on that fuel. The engine seemed to spin easily with a little pull, so the plan is to get some juice to it and check the oil pressure before we wire it up and try to get it to fire. In addition to the wiring, I have 2 immediate issues to address: 1. The clutch seems to be stuck, so I'll have to try to free that up. Any and all thoughts appreciated. 2. The brakes are apart and the shoes are missing. Are those interchangeable? Or are they specific to the 70. It looks like everything else is there. Again, any advice appreciated. I tried to post some pics. Sorry they're bad. Wrecker lights were messing with me.
Merry Christmas!
Josh
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,168 Posts
Congrats!

The clutch will need to be pulled apart to fix correctly. It's real easy on these tractors since its the belt pulley on the right side. Simply open it up and replace the parts as needed. The aftermarket has plenty of parts available for these.

The brakes are just as easy to deal with. There are plenty of choices for parts. You can easily source them on eBay as well. The shoes fit several models.

An original JD (or re-print) service manual is a really good thing to have. The small aftermarket manuals are ok, but seriously lack all the greater detail the JD manuals have.

Post lots of pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions. :good2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
740 Posts
Please tell me you are going to ditch that ugly LP tank and put it back to stock! Overall, I'd say you have a pretty good tractor for either a restoration or work horse.

My G was as strong as an ox and so was my grandpa's 70 diesel. If you were after power, you have it now!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,490 Posts
boy that model 70, makes my model 50 look like a toy. I like the wide front end. good luck on ur repairs. big jim
 

·
Corndog Hater
Joined
·
10,956 Posts
Congrats, I don't think I have ever seen a 70 with the wide front. The size of the 70 always impressed me, enjoy🏼
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Nice find!!! :thumbup1gif: :thumbup1gif: :thumbup1gif:

I had a 70 diesel at one time, my first tractor! Pony motor could be a pain at times!

Grew up on an electric start 720D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
70's are always cool tractors, to me, always under appreciated for their relevance, i have a 70 diesel standard and a 70 R/C diesel.

If i tell you anything you already know i apologize, as these are just my observations.

I think your wide front is a norton, i dont remember swartz using round tubes but i wont swear to it. Either way.

You are very lucky the carb is still there, original 70 gas carbs are like gold, the 720/730 carb will work, but the correct police will let you know haha

Someone changed out the generator for an alternator, so when you go back to wiring, the original wiring diagrams will probably be wrong. they came out as positive ground with amp meters. The coil and distributor wiring will be opposite.

I have a LOT of brakes, complete, and a bunch of shoes, they would just need linings, at least they are already apart, thats the tough part. if you need the drums, or pins and rollers etc, let me know. Your just down in OKC so it wouldnt be that big of deal.

When you tear your clutch down, wd-40 is your friend, use it liberally, as long as your driver, adjusting disk, or sliding drive disks are okay your in good shape, I buy my clutches from sharps tractor in fair grove mo. i buy several at a time because the shipping is the same if i buy 5 or 1.

Put up some more pictures of your 70!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks a lot guys! I've been waiting on this one for a while. I've always wanted a 70 or 720. I like the standards best, but as you know, it's hard to find them with rock shafts and I definitely need the 3 point. I can' wait to get to work on this tractor. I will probably do a little work this week and some more this weekend.

I figure my immediate concern has to be the clutch and wiring. I'll worry about the brakes after I get her firing.

Here's my plan of attack:
1. Battery Cables and ignition wiring and tuneup.
2. Clutch.
3. Brakes.
4. Change all fluids.

Is the fluid info in the manual going to be good still? Or do I need to be looking for more modern products?

All thoughts and opinions welcome any time. More pics coming as soon as I can get out there.

Thanks again!
Josh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
740 Posts
Modern fluids work just fine as long as you do your homework. For example, you'll want to skip the Castrol or Valvoline car oil and use an oil formulated for vehicles with flat-tappet cams such as Shell Rotella or another name-brand diesel truck oil. Also, shorten your first oil change interval will also be pretty short because waking the tractor up will stir up a lot of sediment. Don't forget to put oil in the air cleaner as well!

Before you dump in a bunch of coolant, make sure you have the radiator flushed and/or boiled out. I use a generic 50/50 coolant in my two-cylinders and have never had an issue with the cooling system.

Get the biggest battery that will fit. Even being a gasoline burner, the 70 has a huge motor. If you plan on using it in the winter you will want the extra juice.

Don't neglect the transmission oil either! Huge cast iron cases sweat a lot of water which will break down the gear oil and ruin your new toy. Change this at least once a year regardless of use if only to combat condensation.

A good set of genuine shop manuals (skip those crappy ones from tractor supply) will not be a waste of money. I can promise you that!
 

·
Corndog Hater
Joined
·
10,956 Posts
Pics are better than nothing, you're all right.:good2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
JPOKC,

I got the email, i meant to call you but this week went by faster than i thought. Ill be out in the shop tomorrow, ill give you a call, i need to know a bit more about what all brake parts you need. if you have not done so already, you can go to deeres website and download the parts manual, its PC0313, the service manual is SM2017 in paperform, or you can order the cd, its SM2017CD. paper version is like 60 bucks, cd is 30. Dont waste your time on the I&T manuals, same price, but worthless, in my humblest of opinions. You can also get the operators manual from mother deere but i dont know what number it is. Your 70 is a gas and not an all-fuel isnt it? it kinda looked like it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thank you! My 70 is a gas model. It looks like all I need is the actual shoes, based on the manual I'm looking at. I will get the parts catalog from Deere and double check, though.

Thanks!
Josh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I had a little time to work on the 70 today. Nothing major accomplished but I did make some discoveries.

1. I loosened the flywheel cover and was able to turn the engine over by hand. Flywheel looked good to me and did not seem sloppy at all.

What exactly is the common 70 flywheel problem I'm always hearing about?

I'm also going to try to clean up or change the battery cable to the starter so that we can get her spinning over.


2. I pulled the clutch cover and it's pretty scary looking in there. I sprayed down the 3 bolts with PB blaster and am going to try taking them loose tomorrow. I'm thinking I'm going to have to do a clutch job. Hopefully the drivers are ok.

Any thoughts on what might be preventing the clutch lever from moving forward?

Are the clutches on 70 diesels the same at the gas models?

Also discovered that some rocket scientist broke one of the brake adjustment screws. Guess I'll take them apart after all.

More tomorrow.

Happy New Year.

Josh
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,168 Posts
The common flywheel issue with a lot of the Poppers is they become loose on the crankshaft due to the large and relatively lumpy power pulses from the engine. These pulses cause the flywheel to loosen over time and eat the splines off the end. Just make sure it's tight. The other common issue is the flywheel cracking from over-torquing the two pinch bolts.

IIRC the clutches are the same between the gassers and the diesels.

Have you gotten a service manual yet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So far I've amassed an original operators manual and an I&T manual via Christmas gifts from my wife and daughter.

Flywheel looks good to me. Good and tight and no slop.

Looked at the books for information on taking the clutch apart. So far, so good.

Are you the guy with the 60 on YouTube?

Jp
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
I think the loose flywheel was more common on the diesels, the 70D I had worked loose, don't remember any of the of the two-cylinders we had giving a problem!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,168 Posts
Are you the guy with the 60 on YouTube?

Jp
Yup. I have a few videos on YouTube of some 60s. One is a tour of the inside of the transmission. All of the Poppers have similar transmissions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
The majority of the flywheel issues with diesels were a two-fold problem, first was not idling them down before shutting them down, the second is just cranking down on the flywheel bolts with a 3/4 drive and 10ft cheater pipe. I understand how things were done way back when, and i dont fault them, they did what they had to do to get by. However, even on a gas, if your going to pull the flywheel off replace the two bolts with 2 NEW grade 8 bolts, set the tolerance and tighten to spec. There is a taper-loc upgrade, but thats a different conversation. I do have a busted 70 diesel flywheel if you need one - haha

if possible, i dont think i would try starting the tractor with the starter first unless you know what condition its in, it could be full of crap and rusted, i would try pull starting it first, as long as you have 1 brake that works, lol. There is a place local to me that does all my starters, generators, and 24v stuff, so far i have not paid more than 65 bucks for 1 item, including old detroit starters.

if you plan on pulling the clutch, make a bracket that goes across the pulley and a couple holes to line up so you can thread a couple bolts into the driver, then just warm it up and it will pop right off.

On not being able to move the clutch lever, it could be something as simple as the clutch fork shaft just needing a good shot of wd and just working it back and forth and the clutches are the same on many models, the number of them is what changes. There are the clutch dawgs and other stuff, but i would pull and clean the clutch and soak down the linkage before i worried to much.

- Side note for the future, when you have it running - If you are going to sit there and listen to it run, or do something while its running, put it in neutral, set a brake, and engage the clutch, always. This will save your clutch bearing and the crankshaft...

post some pictures of your brakes. if you need linings, i cant help you on that, but the rest i have around, the last couple weeks have not been going according to plan...hopefully tomorrow will start to go more my way....
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top