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Discussion Starter #1
Finally ordered wheel weights from the dealer yesterday, two 70lb and two 50lb along with mounting hardware. In addition to dirt work, I wanted them for use in the winter with my front blower and rear blade. They might be in by Friday, if not, than after the weekend. I’m looking forward to putting them on and driving the rig on my property and in the woods to feel the difference. I also have air/fluid valve and the rest of the stuff to fluid fill if necessary. Still debating if I should also add fluid or if that will be too much and will affect mowing too.

I also had sipped the tires before last winter and it made a difference in snow work but I feel I still need to add weight.
 

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Just dont put them on backwards like Deere shows in one of its ad pictures of the 1025.
You may already know this, but the recess in the face of the weight goes toward the outside, and the small inner rim and recess is what sits over the wheel bolts and keeps the weight from riding against them. It also makes mounting the second weight nearly impossible mounted like Deere has in the aforementioned picture. There are threaded holes in the starter weight so that the second can be easily mounted to it.
Youd think someone at Deere would have caught that, but nope. :dunno:

By the way, Im a big fan of cast iron weight vs filled tires. Easy to remove if you dont want it.
Id try it with just the weights, and if you feel you need more after that, then add fluid if you want. Or more weights. You can stack a bunch on there...a buddy used to run 3 of the 50# weights stacked at plow days. He didnt have starter weights. Ive run my starters and two 50# weights outside them at plow days, but never for snow removal because they end up wider than the snowthrower path and knock the snow back down.
 

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Just dont put them on backwards like Deere shows in one of its ad pictures of the 1025.
You may already know this, but the recess in the face of the weight goes toward the outside, and the small inner rim and recess is what sits over the wheel bolts and keeps the weight from riding against them. It also makes mounting the second weight nearly impossible mounted like Deere has in the aforementioned picture. There are threaded holes in the starter weight so that the second can be easily mounted to it.
Here's an old thread on 1 series wheel weights. Good info on backwards and forwards.

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/18579-1026r-wheel-weight-issue.html

As for using the tapped holes on the starter weights, my problem was that the outer 50# weight blocked the valve stem, so I used longer bolts going through both weights.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What puzzled me is JDs lack of docomentation. The 1025 is not even listed on their website to match weights. The mounting hardware available has to be cut to fit a starter and a 50#. No carriage bolts available from JD so they fit in square hole for single tool tightening. Nothing is put in simple terms that says, “ this is the way the weights and bolts go. And this is recommended method to seat them.” I can’t believe that they can’t give a simple set of accurate illustrations and short and sweat directions. I observed a ton of threads here they were initially installed wrong. I don’t believe in many cases it was the fault of the op.
 

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What puzzled me is JDs lack of docomentation. The 1025 is not even listed on their website to match weights. The mounting hardware available has to be cut to fit a starter and a 50#. No carriage bolts available from JD so they fit in square hole for single tool tightening. Nothing is put in simple terms that says, “ this is the way the weights and bolts go. And this is recommended method to seat them.” I can’t believe that they can’t give a simple set of accurate illustrations and short and sweat directions. I observed a ton of threads here they were initially installed wrong. I don’t believe in many cases it was the fault of the op.
:dunno:
My best source if information is GTT. Consider most instruction sheets as a "guide to assembly" and to use my own common sense.

And one of my mottos is: "Don't sweat the small stuff" ... I'll probably live longer with less stress.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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My starters just arrived yesterday! Had originally ordered starters & a set of add ons, but there was a part mixup. :dunno: Remembered reading that the JD bolt kit was overpriced and could get better price at a big box. Will have to find the post again so I can get bolts.

Correct installation orientation shown here?
https://www.landproequipment.com/new-equipment/john-deere/riding-mower-attachments/parts-and-attachments/72-lb-Cast-Iron-Starter-Wheel-Weight/BM17973
Thats the correct way.

Here's an old thread on 1 series wheel weights. Good info on backwards and forwards.

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/18579-1026r-wheel-weight-issue.html

As for using the tapped holes on the starter weights, my problem was that the outer 50# weight blocked the valve stem, so I used longer bolts going through both weights.

Just my 2 cents.
Trouble is, they dont tell you what orientation based on where your valve stem is. And with the starters, the holes arent 90 degrees apart, so there may not actually be a position this happens in!
If the longer bolt worked, turning the weight to the next set of holes in the wheel may have worked. Its been a bit since I actually sat down and looked at mine. I do recall that some people had this issue on garden tractors as well years ago, and some of them use the same rear wheel on the 1025, so maybe it wouldnt have done any good now that I think about it.
The other option is to drill and tap a set of holes that will work for you, though its is much more labor intensive than what you did. Well, tossing around 50# weights is pretty labor intensive, so maybe not...:laugh:

What puzzled me is JDs lack of docomentation. The 1025 is not even listed on their website to match weights. The mounting hardware available has to be cut to fit a starter and a 50#. No carriage bolts available from JD so they fit in square hole for single tool tightening. Nothing is put in simple terms that says, “ this is the way the weights and bolts go. And this is recommended method to seat them.” I can’t believe that they can’t give a simple set of accurate illustrations and short and sweat directions. I observed a ton of threads here they were initially installed wrong. I don’t believe in many cases it was the fault of the op.
Yes. I too dont understand the lack of documentation. I also dont understand their pricing for a few nuts and bolts.
The weights for my 2025 used, if I recall, 4 carriage bolts, 4 washers, and 4 lock nuts. Well, Deere had a lock washer, and standard nut, but still, they wanted better than $20 PER SIDE for this.
I paid about $10 total.
I NEVER use their hardware, because in the case of the smaller weights (the ones you are getting), their kit is a standard bolt. Its a PITA to reach around behind the wheel and hold that thing, mount the weight, put the washer/nut on it and get it all started.
Over on WFM, we all figured out (after someone else told us that is) that if you use the correct length carriage bolt for your wheel offset, you can put a short length of garden hose (maybe an inch or so) on the weight side of the wheel, with a nut over that, and tighten down until its snug against the hose piece. This allows you do then work completely from the outside of the wheel and not have to mess with anything behind it.
Might be something to look into when yours arrive.
One other tip. This doesnt apply to the starter weights, only the 50# weights used by themselves. When mounting them to the wheel, if you have a long (maybe 18" or so) length of 1/2" rod, you can insert it into the wheel weight bolt hole on the wheel, then through the bolt hole on the weight, then you can easily lift the end and slide the weight into place on the wheel. Obviously youll need to use a hole you arent using for bolts.

What nobody seems to say to anyone about these is that just because the bolts are in doesnt mean it will center itself. It doesnt need to be perfect, but the closer you are, the less likely you are to have one slip and loosen up later on.
On my 2025, I was able to set the weight in place (WATCH YOUR FINGERS! OUCH!!!), then use a thick plastic shim I had with a sock over it to protect the finish on the wheel to leverage the wheel weight in place before tightening the bolts down.
 

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What puzzled me is JDs lack of docomentation. The 1025 is not even listed on their website to match weights. The mounting hardware available has to be cut to fit a starter and a 50#. No carriage bolts available from JD so they fit in square hole for single tool tightening. Nothing is put in simple terms that says, “ this is the way the weights and bolts go. And this is recommended method to seat them.” I can’t believe that they can’t give a simple set of accurate illustrations and short and sweat directions. I observed a ton of threads here they were initially installed wrong. I don’t believe in many cases it was the fault of the op.
I agree totally. The one thing that almost stopped my purchase was the fact that i could not call JD with questions. All the other tractor companies I called< MF, NH, Case, had people available to answer questions.
I like wheel weights have them on my other tractors and never take them off. I took the liquid ballast out of my old Ford and do notice a dramatic difference on slopes. Even a little extra weight down low makes a tremendous difference on a slope. Oh, and the old Ford has five 75LB weights on the weight bar in the front but even with those and wheel weights I notice a difference without liquid ballast.
 
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Ah who needs them weights anyway my beer belly is all the ballast i need!:greentractorride::lolol:
 

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I'll keep this in mind when I transfer the weights from my 400 to the 1025. Now that I think about it, the weights on my 400 are on backwards!:knownothing:
 

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I'll keep this in mind when I transfer the weights from my 400 to the 1025. Now that I think about it, the weights on my 400 are on backwards!:knownothing:
Something else to keep in mind....it may not be an issue on the 1025, but the original 400 starter weights had no center recess for the axle bolts (it is about 2.25" diameter, by about 1" deep in the center of the larger circle on the back side of the weight) on the later 300/400 series garden tractors.
Some guys run them anyway and end up boogering up the threads on the end of that shaft, which isnt good.
I believe the 1025 doesnt have this, so it should be a non-issue, just something to keep in mind.
 
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Something else to keep in mind....it may not be an issue on the 1025, but the original 400 starter weights had no center recess for the axle bolts (it is about 2.25" diameter, by about 1" deep in the center of the larger circle on the back side of the weight) on the later 300/400 series garden tractors.
Some guys run them anyway and end up boogering up the threads on the end of that shaft, which isnt good.
I believe the 1025 doesnt have this, so it should be a non-issue, just something to keep in mind.
I'll keep that in mind.:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Finally got them on

Error
 

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What size bolts did you use? Still have to get mine, but not going to mount weights until I make mods for TnT valves since that'll require removing a wheel. And that's not going to happen until the 100°+ heat subsides...

Any tricks for manhandling the weights? Have seen other posts with supports. Haven't had nerve to attempt picking up the starters yet from where they were delivered.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What size bolts did you use? Still have to get mine, but not going to mount weights until I make mods for TnT valves since that'll require removing a wheel. And that's not going to happen until the 100°+ heat subsides...

Any tricks for manhandling the weights? Have seen other posts with supports. Haven't had nerve to attempt picking up the starters yet from where they were delivered.
Used 1/2” x 9” carriage bolts.

Stuck the bolts thru the square holes, lifted and placed starter weight partially on rim. Next had my son crawl behind tire and place bolts thru starter weight. Nuts and washers seated starter weight. Next placed add on weight on the two bolts holding starter weight. Notches on weight, are centered on valve stem.came out fine.
 
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