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Okay it happen finally snow!!!

We had our first "storm" maybe 5" at most but it was snow and I got to use my new tractor and 54" snowblower.. (okay a little overkill for this storm):bigbeer:

I have additive in but don't know if i needed it or not but tractor started right up.

When i started i placed the snowblower down in free leveling ( but maybe not?) as it lifted the front up enough that the front wheels wouldn't steer. Any helpful comments?

It was fun and then when i backed up it quit. (didn't read enough) this becomes a pain so I am sure someone has a work around as i don't think its wrong to want to keep the blower pto at speed going while back up a bit to turn right? I hated having to reduce down to 1500 engage pto then back to high and then back and forth :banghead:

Overall with turf tires and #400 no chains it went very well.

When i put it away it was filled with snow.... Humm so i tried to clear it out and blow out some but wondering if there is a better way to clear it as i don't want it to stay or melt and then maybe freeze and then it wont work? Any ideas from you veterans of storms with your 1025:nunu: o

It is because of this board I got the 1025 and the mowing this summer was nothing but fun and so easy... now the winter is starting and first impression you all steered me right!!!:laugh:

If you have any other helpful ideas please let me know and thanks again eveyone:gizmo:
 

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When i started i placed the snowblower down in free leveling ( but maybe not?) as it lifted the front up enough that the front wheels wouldn't steer. Any helpful comments?
It sounds like you pushed the SCV control forward but didn't push it far enough to "click" into the float position. As a result, the blower will lower just enough to raise the front wheels off the ground.

It was fun and then when i backed up it quit. (didn't read enough) this becomes a pain so I am sure someone has a work around as i don't think its wrong to want to keep the blower pto at speed going while back up a bit to turn right? I hated having to reduce down to 1500 engage pto then back to high and then back and forth :banghead:
Yes, RIO is a pain. Normally the way to keep it running is to pull up on the PTO switch while backing up. I also thought the 1-series had a sensor up front to prevent this. Perhaps someone with a 1-series can give the details.

When i put it away it was filled with snow.... Humm so i tried to clear it out and blow out some but wondering if there is a better way to clear it as i don't want it to stay or melt and then maybe freeze and then it wont work? Any ideas from you veterans of storms with your 1025:nunu: o
You definitely want to clear all the snow away from the auger and impeller. Otherwise it can freeze and become ice which can cause problems trying to engage. You can use a small broom if you have one. I use one of those little plastic long handled scraper tools like comes with most new snow blowers. It lets me get in and remove all the snow around the auger, housing and chute.

https://www.amazon.com/MTD-Genuine-Accessories-Thrower-Clearing/dp/B001LUPC3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512919269&sr=8-1&keywords=snow+blower+tool

scraper.jpg

For $14 you might want to get one of these and keep it mounted right on the snow blower for cleanup and removing any clogs.
 

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Okay it happen finally snow!!!

We had our first "storm" maybe 5" at most but it was snow and I got to use my new tractor and 54" snowblower.. (okay a little overkill for this storm):bigbeer:

I have additive in but don't know if i needed it or not but tractor started right up.

When i started i placed the snowblower down in free leveling ( but maybe not?) as it lifted the front up enough that the front wheels wouldn't steer. Any helpful comments?

It was fun and then when i backed up it quit. (didn't read enough) this becomes a pain so I am sure someone has a work around as i don't think its wrong to want to keep the blower pto at speed going while back up a bit to turn right? I hated having to reduce down to 1500 engage pto then back to high and then back and forth :banghead:

Overall with turf tires and #400 no chains it went very well.

When i put it away it was filled with snow.... Humm so i tried to clear it out and blow out some but wondering if there is a better way to clear it as i don't want it to stay or melt and then maybe freeze and then it wont work? Any ideas from you veterans of storms with your 1025:nunu: o

It is because of this board I got the 1025 and the mowing this summer was nothing but fun and so easy... now the winter is starting and first impression you all steered me right!!!:laugh:

If you have any other helpful ideas please let me know and thanks again eveyone:gizmo:
You have to put it in float position.When you lower it push the lever a little farther you'll feel it go a little farther that is float.

RIO switch kicked it out

I use a leaf blower to get most of the snow off before I bring it in.

I use additive in the winter due to it can sit for a few weeks before it runs again.This time of the year condensation is a problem with temp ranges.
 

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A few notes.

1. Make sure to have the front PTO sensor plugged into disable the RIO feature.
2. Use "float on your loader joystick. Push forward to lower the implement to the ground, then push forward more until the stick snaps into float. Ty this for the first time with the engine not running to get a feel of how the stick feels and works.
3. Make sure to have adequate ballast on the rear to counteract the weight of the blower for more control and traction.

It only gets better and better! :thumbup1gif:
 

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I use a leaf blower to get most of the snow off before I bring it in.
Your snow must stay very fluffy. I find that the snow that collects on the inside of the blower housing and front hitch areas becomes packed hard and solid and requires a bit of work to dislodge it. The same applies to the rear blade, I have to literally scrape off the snow that is sticking to the surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks

I am going to go out and try pushing it forward for the click. (I don't think i did that so i am sure it was the reason it was pushing down so much)

The dealer set it up so I thought it would have been plugged in. I will also check on that.

thanks for the advice... and i took the tool off my snowblower to use which is the same one you show in the picture. :laugh:
 

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Your snow must stay very fluffy. I find that the snow that collects on the inside of the blower housing and front hitch areas becomes packed hard and solid and requires a bit of work to dislodge it. The same applies to the rear blade, I have to literally scrape off the snow that is sticking to the surfaces.
Key word is most.
 
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Try some spray silicone or anti-stick cooking spray to help the keep snow from sticking so much.

Got hardly 1" the other day - never been so disappointed to not get snow - HA! :laugh:

This will be first winter with my 1025R, at this property. Might have to go out and 'practice' anyway :greentractorride:
 

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Now is also a good time to learn about your blower's shear bolts in the auger. I know on the older 47" Two Stage throwers, they put spare auger shear bolts right on the blower, near the chute in the bottom of the bracket if i recall. Sooner or later you will shear a bolt, especially with the ice that can form and basically, the bolt breaks off and allows the auger shaft to rotate within the auger, without spinning the auger itself.

The bolts are very easy to replace. You just rotate the auger which isn't spinning by hand and find the bolt head or empty hole as sometimes when the shear bolts break, they will fall out completely, other time, the head of the bolt shears off and the bolt body remains in the shaft. When that happens, just use a pointed tool or a small screw driver and push out the piece of the sheared bolt and replace it.

Make sure you replace the shear bolts with another bolt designed and of the proper grade to shear to avoid damaging the auger or other items in the blower. You can use the spares with the blower or get them through Deere. If you can't find the spare bolts, buy some very "soft' basic bolts of the same head markings on the existing shear bolts as the head markings indicate the bolt grade.

That means NO Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolts, and use the softest bolts available at the hardware store. Don't buy stainless or any special plating or finished bolts anything else, buy the very basic soft bolts so they fail when needed.......

Sooner or later, you will break a shear bolt so being familiar with it before hand makes the repair less stressful and something you are prepared for. I broke my first shear bolt when I ran the 2nd phone book through my blower. The phone book people had delivered them and threw them near everyone's mailbox and I picked up two in one storm. The first was near the base of the mail box and the next one was actually in another neighbors driveway. The first book made it through the blower and man was that a mess to clean up with paper everywhere. The binding stayed intact, but it shredded the pages. After eating the first phone book, apparently it didn't have the appetite for the 2nd one which sheared the bolts.

Also, it goes without saying but I am going to say it anyways.

NEVER clear any objects from the snowblower with the tractor running
, even if the PTO is not engaged. Be safe and shut everything down and then clear the obstruction or repair the shear bolt. The PTO switch is an electric switch and despite the safety features built into the tractor, if something failed and the PTO somehow engaged while you were with your hands in the snow blower, it would be all over.............

What are the odds of the items failing and allowing the PTO to engage without you on the seat and with the switch off? Very high, but I still make it a point to not do such things and would rather be safe. Age brings wisdom after a youth of breaking more bones that I care to count.......:laugh:

Glad you are enjoying your new tractor.........I am using my 1025R for the first real plowing of the season, we ended up with about 15" to 16"total and have posted my thoughts in another thread in the SCUT thread....
 

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Sully, I was pretty surprised to find out a lot of shear bolts JD uses are GRADE 5. Yup, grade 5. I quit saying to use grade 2 bolts after I found this out. Every manufacturer uses different standards, so you may never know. Check your OM.

To the OP, make sure to have a supply of the correct shear bolts on hand, whatever they may be. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Something about snow sticking to blowers and blades I didn’t see mentioned.

If you store your equiment in a heated garage you are always going to have snow sticking problems. The snow melts onto the warm equipment right away which makes it stick.
 

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Different tractor but the blowers are the same. Sully made great points and DS is right; grade 5 bolts, I was surprised too, but be careful not to tighten them to much or you may shear one yourself or the bolt will already be close to shearing.. . I do clean mine out every time with my gloves on, so I do a good clean job and when I back into the garage I run my kerosene 150K BTU heater about 10 feet in front of it while the blower is in the air and let it run until all water has dripped and the blower is dry. Then sweep out the garage of water, (hence the good cleaning job, less snow to melt).
The garage also starts to gain in the heat department to. Last night and today we got 8" of the stuff and 28 degrees out and after I shut the heat down, the garage was 45 degrees and the garage is a 28'X50' with 12" ceilings, no insulation in the walls yet but the ceiling is at R50 or so with cellulose and the trusses are covered with blueboard on the heated side, ready for plaster.. I also spray when dry, the entire blower outside and inside with silicone or teflon spray, but as mentioned your wife's Pam will work too just get the fake butter type!:laugh:
Like all have said just push your lever all the way forward until it clicks and stays in place. it will float then.

Sully said the most important thing about all this. shut the engine off before you put your hands or anything into or near the blower, it will very painful mentally and physically for rest of your life if anything happens. This can never be stressed enough.. As many times I say this to my custodians I still catch them unplugging the chute with a stick of their hands with the damn machines running.. It blows my mind..

One more thing too, if your chute does plug up, full throttle and get the blower into some deep snow and most of the time it will unplug itself once it gets good snow. I did say most of the time, mine did today at least three times. By the road where the town uses salt it gets a little slushy on the final trips up and the chute will plug.. Someone told me that after all the years of shutting down and cleaning the chute with the little shovel posted here in a Pic,, and since then not one time has the driving into good snow not worked!! And don't be afraid to "push" it in... Must be why the shear bolts are grade 5. 2 would certainly shear trying this.. Good luck.... :hi:
 

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Make sure you replace the shear bolts with another bolt designed and of the proper grade to shear to avoid damaging the auger or other items in the blower. You can use the spares with the blower or get them through Deere. If you can't find the spare bolts, buy some very "soft' basic bolts of the same head markings on the existing shear bolts as the head markings indicate the bolt grade.

That means NO Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolts, and use the softest bolts available at the hardware store. Don't buy stainless or any special plating or finished bolts anything else, buy the very basic soft bolts so they fail when needed.......
In this case, the sheer bolts used on the JD 47" and 54" blowers are Grade-5. JD's listed material grade of A17D is equivalent to Grade-5.

Part Number:
19H1914
Part Price: 0.46 USD Each
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description: Cap Screw - SCREW, HEX HEAD


Specification
Weight: 0.02 LBS 0.01 Kg
Diameter0.250 IN
ThreadUNC2A
Length1.000 IN
Thread Length0.875 IN
Width Across Flats0.438 IN
Head Height0.163 IN
Material GradeA17D
FinishB
Note
 

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coaltrain raises a good point. My toys... I mean tractor... are stored in an attached garage. The temp in there runs just above freezing so I try to start the tractor in the garage then drive it outside and let it warm up. That lets the steel on the blower cool off. Also, do you just have the standard exhaust? The exhaust gasses go forward, directly onto the left half of the blower. I had lots of sticking snow problems until I added a piece of drain pipe...

DSCF6070 - Copy.JPG

It keeps the back of the blower cleaner too. No more black soot!!


Others have mentioned the RIO. Make sure it's plugged in. Remember, it has to be unplugged to remove the front quick hitch brackets .... I eliminated the problem by bypassing it. It seems like newer tractors have made the process a little different than on mine, so I can offer no help there.

Sometimes, it's a balancing act between too little weight on the front tires = no steering Vs. Too little weight in the back = no traction. You'll get it figured out! If you find the steering not going right, just give the stick a quick bump back, that will usually lift the blower just enough to put more weight on the tires.

Good luck.
 

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Pre treat

Your snow must stay very fluffy. I find that the snow that collects on the inside of the blower housing and front hitch areas becomes packed hard and solid and requires a bit of work to dislodge it. The same applies to the rear blade, I have to literally scrape off the snow that is sticking to the surfaces.
Before using my rear blade, I will spray it with cooking spray, silicone etc. Don't tell the EPA but I've even used a brush and used motor oil with good results. Paste wax works as well- no need to buff it off. Anything to slick up the surface helps but I'd guess with a blower you want a spray product.

Treefarmer
 

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Something about snow sticking to blowers and blades I didn’t see mentioned.

If you store your equiment in a heated garage you are always going to have snow sticking problems. The snow melts onto the warm equipment right away which makes it stick.
Yea, that is probably why I have the sticking problem sometimes!!! :good2:
 
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