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I'm bringing power out from my barn to my shed and what better way than with my 1026r. This is my very first time digging with a backhoe so I was a little shaky getting started. My first impressions are positive. As you can see there are a lot of large rocks and it wasn't much of a problem. Noob question, whats the best way to get the tractor off the ditch once I've connected the dots and fully straddled?

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Lay a 2'X12 down and drive over the hole.








I'm bringing power out from my barn to my shed and what better way than with my 1026r. This is my very first time digging with a backhoe so I was a little shaky getting started. My first impressions are positive. As you can see there are a lot of large rocks and it wasn't much of a problem. Noob question, whats the best way to get the tractor off the ditch once I've connected the dots and fully straddled?

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... Noob question, whats the best way to get the tractor off the ditch once I've connected the dots and fully straddled?
Troutsniffer,

Disassemble the tractor and reassemble it next to the ditch. :lol:
... I crack myself up!
 

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Pivot Method to exit or straddle two connected ditches. Lots of cautions!

Noob question, whats the best way to get the tractor off the ditch once I've connected the dots and fully straddled?
You can use the Pivot method - using the backhoe to move the rear of the tractor left or right. With this technique, you pivot the entire tractor around the FEL bucket by lifting the rear end with the backhoe and pivoting it left or right. This technique requires stable ground and is not safe without the FEL down firmly for support. Caution - when the rear end lifts up, the front axle alone would allow the tractor to tilt sideways, whereas the FEL will not allow the tilt.

Remember - in the 1026R, the seat in backhoe position places you outside the ROPS protection zone, so the manual instructs you to not use the seatbelt. You will not be protected by the ROPS and seatbelt in case of a roll-over while in the backhoe position.

This is a general "how to" pivot. Be careful, move slowly, and only do this on stable level ground. Best to practice when you're NOT straddling a ditch.

With the FEL bucket firmly down and rocked away about 5 degrees or more (standard tripod position to stabilize the tractor for backhoe work), place the stabilizers on the ground, bring the boom up, bring the dipper stick in close so the bucket is close to the tractor, rotate the hoe bucket until the teeth are near the ground but not pointed down - you want the bucket bottom or curved part of the bucket resting on the ground. Push the boom down - this will lift the rear of the tractor off the ground. Lift just enough to remove the weight from the tires and stabilizers. Now rotate the boom left or right to shift the rear of the tractor the opposite direction. Once shifted, be sure it will be stable when you lower the rear of the tractor. If not, reverse the shift and re-think what you're doing. Lastly, raise the boom to lower the tractor back down. Once you get the hang of it, you can start your pivot with the boom to one side, allowing you to pivot a greater distance.

Cautions - if you end the pivot with both the tire and stabilizer on one side of the tractor in the ditch, it will probably roll over. Use common sense and be careful.
You want the hoe bucket fairly close in to the tractor so that, during the entire pivot maneuver, the tractor center of gravity remains within a triangle defined by the two FEL bucket corners and the hoe bucket. If the CG moves outside that triangle, the tractor will start to roll over - hopefully any roll over will be stopped by the tires or stabilizer. Besides, if the hoe bucket is too far away from the tractor, the boom will not have enough power to lift the rear of the tractor off the ground.

If exiting a ditch, once you get both rear tires clear of the ditch on stable ground (not too close to the ditch - avoid a collapse!), switch back to the tractor station and drive backwards in 4WD, leaving the FEL down to support the front end as the front tire rolls over the ditch. When both front tires are on stable ground outside the ditch, you're good to go!

PS: I bet you want to exit the ditch on the side with the spoil. :) And gosh darn, the spoil is close to the trees. :(

Please buy and read this book: http://www.amazon.com/Operating-techniques-tractor-loader-backhoe/dp/0911785019
 

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Install half the conduit, back fill all but the last 2ft or so. Then finish up the ditch and you will only need to straddle approximately 2ft of an open ditch.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Troutsniffer,

Disassemble the tractor and reassemble it next to the ditch. :lol:
... I crack myself up!
And here I was going to rent a large crane! :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
BGI, Thanks for your thoughtful and thorough reply. I will practice tonite, And I will pick up a copy of that book too. I'm thinking I will use your idea of pivoting the rear plus Goodscout's idea of a 2 x 12" for the front tire.
The trench is a good 4 ft deep so back filling half will not work so good.
 

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to heck with pics....we will need a video when you try this please
:munch:

:lol:
 

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BGI, Thanks for your thoughtful and thorough reply. I will practice tonite, And I will pick up a copy of that book too. I'm thinking I will use your idea of pivoting the rear plus Goodscout's idea of a 2 x 12" for the front tire.
The trench is a good 4 ft deep so back filling half will not work so good.
Half the length not half the depth.
 

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Troutsniffer, BTW, I thought that looked like a lot of dirt, why 4 ft deep?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Troutsniffer, BTW, I thought that looked like a lot of dirt, why 4 ft deep?
It's code in these parts. Code also says I need to backfill the first foot with clean sand as well. Otherwise, the frost will heave the rocks and break the pvc conduit.
That aside, I'm planning on excavating the top soil in a large area behind the barn and replacing with crushed rock for an implement staging area, so being 4 ft deep it won't be a problem.
 

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Can you back the tractor up to the ditch at a 90* angle, then swing the backhoe to the side and dig the final bit of trench like that? That way you don't have to straddle the trench at all.
 

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Looks like a fun project for the 1026R. :thumbup1gif: I would be very careful when exiting the ditch, i have used the side shifting with the backhoe on a Kubota BX24 which worked really well, however I was digging out a stump and just figured it would be faster than pulling forward and readjusting where my rear wheel were, not straddling a 4' ditch. Be careful out there, dont do it if your not comfortable, you can always just finish the ditch off to the side with the backhoe angled left or right. :thumbup1gif:
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Looks like a fun project for the 1026R. :thumbup1gif: I would be very careful when exiting the ditch, i have used the side shifting with the backhoe on a Kubota BX24 which worked really well, however I was digging out a stump and just figured it would be faster than pulling forward and readjusting where my rear wheel were, not straddling a 4' ditch. Be careful out there, dont do it if your not comfortable, you can always just finish the ditch off to the side with the backhoe angled left or right. :thumbup1gif:
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^^ what he said. just keep the tires and stabilizers away from the ditch. it may collapse!
 

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Troutsniffer,

Nice job on the trench, especially for a new operator. Very impressive especially in light of how close you dug alongside of the building. 4' depth anywhere in MA can be a crapshoot due to rocks or ledge. Heck, you were lucky to get it done with bringing in an excavator or a blaster!

Where in Central Massachusetts?

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Troutsniffer,

Nice job on the trench, especially for a new operator. Very impressive especially in light of how close you dug alongside of the building. 4' depth anywhere in MA can be a crapshoot due to rocks or ledge. Heck, you were lucky to get it done with bringing in an excavator or a blaster!

Where in Central Massahusetts?

Frank

Lancaster....thanks neighbor!
 

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I admit you have quite a few stones ,rocks ,what ever you may call them, hate to say yours are a little small . I pulled one out the other year digging a drain line in for our neighbor. I have a 53-54" bucket on the fel if rock would have been another 1/4-1/2 " longer wouldn't got it in the bucket. I admit it was only about 8" thick but about 20" wide it took a while to get it out of the ditch . The 260 is pretty nice ,, lot better than using a hand shovel.
 

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Install half the conduit, back fill all but the last 2ft or so. Then finish up the ditch and you will only need to straddle approximately 2ft of an open ditch.
This might give you trouble with the inspector. They may want to come out and see the cable run at the bottom of the trench before it can be buried.
 
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