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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys I just received a complete hydraulic TnT kit from Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics. I must say I'm very impressed with the quality of the kit so far. The paint looks great, the welds are smooth, and the overall appearance is very very nice on these custom built cylinders. The fittings used on the end of the cylinders are contoured and smoothed. If you didn't know they were custom built, you'd think they were cast or forged this way. They look that good.:good2:

Here's a few teasers for now. I'll be installing them later today.:thumbup1gif:

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OEM 3PH top and side link comparison

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The quality of workmanship of this kit is impressive. I'm looking forward to sharing the install and an overall review.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Nice stuff Diesel! :good2: That will make a lot of things easier once installed. Have to consider the same some day.
 

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Fit Rite Top and Tilt kit

Is a kit like this mainly used if you don't have an I-Match or is there a benefit of having them with one?? Maybe for tilting or adjusting the I-Match?? Just curious. Thanks!
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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Is a kit like this mainly used if you don't have an I-Match or is there a benefit of having them with one?? Maybe for tilting or adjusting the I-Match?? Just curious. Thanks!
An I-Match allows for easier attachment to an implement. The Top & Tilt cylinders can make that attachment easier, but the intention of the cylinders is to be able to adjust the 3pt hitch with out having to stop and get off of the tractor again and again and again. They do not increase or decrease the capability of the tractor, just make adjustments easier and faster. So with the ease of adjustment, hopefully a person will end up with a better finished job with the ease of adjustment. Usually one will make those adjustments more often giving them a better end result. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Wow great looking stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Update

I got to tell you guys, this TnT kit is AWESOME!!!! How can this not be a factory option?

Imagine if you will. You need to fix your rutted and pot-holed driveway. You jump on your tractor, start it up and buckle in. Using a QH you back up to your box blade and latch on. Using your attachment you re-contour the crown in the road. Using the tilt cylinder allows you to change the crown angle on the fly. You clean the ditches, and again with the tilt cylinder allows you to work only one side of the road because as you turn around, you tilt your blade in the opposite direction for another pass on the same side of the road. Using the top link to angle the blade back, you smooth any roughness in your drive to complete driveway repairs. Then you drop of your implement back to where you got it. Only then do you need to unbuckle and get off the tractor to go to the fridge for the well deserved barley pop.:drinks:

I used to have to get off the tractor many times to re-adjust the angles of the blade to achieve a crown or how much bite the blade has. This ends up in a compromise because you don't want to stop every few moments to make a minute adjustment. I was able to do a job in half the time, do a better job, and never get off the tractor.


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Even tried out the sickle mower yesterday. There was some real advantages to having a TnT kit. I was able to manipulate the mower along the differing contours of the ditch. This was a worthwhile investment.:thumbup1gif:

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That is one sweet setup :good2:
 

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VIDEO, WE NEED VIDEO!



Great job Jason, that came out really nice! Use that fancy phone of yours to take some video and put it on YouTube for use :thumbup1gif:
 

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You're having too much fun. :thumbup1gif:

Congrats on getting it to work to suit you! I know you did a lot of research and planning and just plain hard work to get this going.

:yahoo:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
VIDEO, WE NEED VIDEO!



Great job Jason, that came out really nice! Use that fancy phone of yours to take some video and put it on YouTube for use :thumbup1gif:
OK. I heard ya!:laugh: When I get her totally completed, will do.:thumbup1gif: A few more details and it'll be all done.
 

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Jason,

It really looks nice and functions nice. :thumbup1gif:

Brian, nice product. I like it. :thumbup1gif:

Now I can't wait to see the video that Kenny asked for. :munch:
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Jason,I just now noticed this thread.
What a super job on the install. Really nice work.:good2:
After seeing that video,I'll convinced that is the ticket with a box blade.
 

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Jason,

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you have noticed any drift on your cylinders? I ask because I noticed you don't have the pilot operated check valves. I am in the process of making a side link and was deciding if I need the check valve or not as I have one on my top link. BTW how big is your side link cylinder closed length and max stroke?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Jason,

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you have noticed any drift on your cylinders? I ask because I noticed you don't have the pilot operated check valves. I am in the process of making a side link and was deciding if I need the check valve or not as I have one on my top link. BTW how big is your side link cylinder closed length and max stroke?

Thanks
The cylinders don't drift at all. The valve does. But it's extremely slow over a long period of time. It's completely un-noticeable during operation. For example, if I leave my ballast box hooked up to the 3PH and off the ground, it may take several hours to see any noticeable droop in either cylinder. It's about the same or better than the loader valve. Have you ever noticed how your loader will leak down over time? It's the oil leaking past the spool within the valve. Nature of the beast with these small valves. I also have a float spool in my tilt cylinder spool. The DPOCV won't allow a float spool to work. It would effectively lock the cylinder.

I can measure the stroke on the tilt cylinder later, but if memory serves me correctly, it's 4". I'll have to measure for closed length.
 

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Jason's side link has a 4" stroke.

Depending on what top link you have, but be careful once you build your side link that you don't shove your quick hitch into your fender. Max adjustments of both links at the sametime can cause some damage if you are not careful.:unknown:
 

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Thanks for the info guys, guess I will leave out the DPOCV and that is nice as those take up quite a bit of room which is really lacking at the back of a 2320. I guess I am going to have to tap into the power beyond cct and put a new 2 or 3 spool valve set on the tractor and repurpose the electric diverter to get all the hyd out back I want to make this project as nice as Jason's. And thanks for the heads up Brian on the max extension deal.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but I'll take a chance and post anyway.

I am interested in adding a Fit Rite TnT kit to my 2009 JD3720, which already has a Power Beyond kit (LVB26064) attached. What would I need from Fit Rite to get my 3pt to move like the one in the video on this thread. Also, is there an installation guide available online to help me determine if this is something I have the skill/comfort level to attack?

Thanks,
Scott
 
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