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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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Very anxious to hear when the 1 series kit will be ready for release. Any idea on pricing for the 1 series kit?
How many rear remotes do you want? You need 3 for the "TnT" set, do you want a 4th for ????????????????

Use the contact page over at the FRH website and I will get back to you.

I have to get back to work now, busy busy busy. :bye:
 

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How many rear remotes do you want? You need 3 for the "TnT" set, do you want a 4th for ????????????????

Use the contact page over at the FRH website and I will get back to you.

I have to get back to work now, busy busy busy. :bye:
Will do and thank you!

I think I'd like a 4th for the 60D mowing deck. Can I keep the tool box in place with everything installed? I love my toolbox, haha!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
There's just not a lot of real estate on the back of a 1 series....
 

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Ah okay. Looks like I could just remove it and then put it back in place once done with the TNT since it's just two bolts as it appears that the bracket can remain in place, correct?
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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Ah okay. Looks like I could just remove it and then put it back in place once done with the TNT since it's just two bolts as it appears that the bracket can remain in place, correct?
Uh, unless your property is well over a mile long, I think that it would be quicker to make a few trips back to the garage for whatever it is that you may need. It's not just the 2 bolts for the tool box, the 2 bolts for the valve set, ALL of the plumbing to and from the valve, removal of a rear tire to get to said plumbing, other plumbing to be done due to the removal of valve plumbing. I would venture to say that maybe after you got good at doing the change over it wouldn't take that long, (an hour or two, or three????). I know for sure that I would not do it just so that I could have the OEM tool box back on the tractor so that I could have a handful of whatever when my back hoe was on the tractor or for mowing.

So while yes you could put the tool box back on, it's not really advisable to do so, not in the OEM location anyway. :bye:
 

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Hey guys, quick question. I don't mean to hijack...

When I pull the rod into the cylinder on my top link (don't have a bottom link yet) it goes nice and slow. When I extend the rod out, it just drops my implement VERY fast. I should mention it goes slow in both directions if there is nothing on the back. Is this normal?
 

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Uh, unless your property is well over a mile long, I think that it would be quicker to make a few trips back to the garage for whatever it is that you may need. It's not just the 2 bolts for the tool box, the 2 bolts for the valve set, ALL of the plumbing to and from the valve, removal of a rear tire to get to said plumbing, other plumbing to be done due to the removal of valve plumbing. I would venture to say that maybe after you got good at doing the change over it wouldn't take that long, (an hour or two, or three????). I know for sure that I would not do it just so that I could have the OEM tool box back on the tractor so that I could have a handful of whatever when my back hoe was on the tractor or for mowing.

So while yes you could put the tool box back on, it's not really advisable to do so, not in the OEM location anyway. :bye:
Yeah, sounds like it'll become a toolbox within my toolbox in the garage, for life! :)
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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Hey guys, quick question. I don't mean to hijack...

When I pull the rod into the cylinder on my top link (don't have a bottom link yet) it goes nice and slow. When I extend the rod out, it just drops my implement VERY fast. I should mention it goes slow in both directions if there is nothing on the back. Is this normal?
Probably my mistake. :shhh: I was recommending that the flow restrictors get used with the closed (welded) end of the cylinder when it should have been on the rod end. Swap the fitting over and see if that helps, if not let me know and I will send you a second flow restrictor.

Does it slam down if you feather the control, or is there no feathering of your SCV? :question:
 

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Probably my mistake. :shhh: I was recommending that the flow restrictors get used with the closed (welded) end of the cylinder when it should have been on the rod end. Swap the fitting over and see if that helps, if not let me know and I will send you a second flow restrictor.

Does it slam down if you feather the control, or is there no feathering of your SCV? :question:
I won't tell... Haha.

Here is my setup...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1373428528.217813.jpg
Up goes nice and slow but down slams down. There is no feathering. I just hit and hold the button. I've been just tapping it to make fine adjustments.

I'm not sure if it matters but I was recently having some issues with my rear plugs and I loosened one of the hoses on the cylinder to drain a little fluid. I was hoping to get things plugged back in easier. I finally figured the rear plug issue out....
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I want do this on my 2032 r what will I need
Glad you found the thread Steve! :thumbup1gif:

:wgtt:

First you'll need a rear valve with at least two spools to operate the top and tilt cylinders. Here's where I installed a valve from Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics on my 2720 which is essentially the same tractor you have. Brian can outfit you with any number of different configurations of valve spools to handle just about anything you can dream.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/hydraulics/6704-installing-rear-3-spool-selective-control-valve-valve-2720-a.html

Feel free to jump in and ask questions or even start your own thread. :drinks:
 

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1025r

I recently purchased at John Deere 1025r to maintain my 7 acre property. I'm writing to get information on the side and top three point tilt. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I am new to all this so I will need a step-by-step guide on what I need. Thanks again for all your help!
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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I recently purchased at John Deere 1025r to maintain my 7 acre property. I'm writing to get information on the side and top three point tilt. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I am new to all this so I will need a step-by-step guide on what I need. Thanks again for all your help!
Mike, best to contact me through my website. Lots of variables to consider besides just the top & tilt cylinders. Best to go over everything that you have in mind to get you quoted correctly.
 
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