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I have been working on the install of a flagpole for about the last month. Here are some pictures.
The poles is .125 aluminum, 25' long, 5" at the bottom and 3" at the top. The lights are 15731 Kichler, 10° beam, low voltage spot lights.
 

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That is absolutely perfect


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Ray, Absolutely stunning. Can you provide information on where you purchased and costs? I have been thinking about doing this myself. Also what wind speed will it handle and flag dimension, please.
Bill

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Ray, Absolutely stunning. Can you provide information on where you purchased and costs? I have been thinking about doing this myself. Also what wind speed will it handle and flag dimension, please.
Bill

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Thank You!!!!
I get around PA pretty much with my job and i know of a company in Southern PA that sells flagpoles so i checked there first. I found, they buy their flagpoles through a flagpole distributor and their price for a comparable flagpole was quite a bit higher, so, i started to do some more research and found there are many distributors online that market flagpoles. After checking on a few, i settled on this company. I must say, the ordering, shipment and packaging was perfect. ABF trucking delivered it right to my driveway. I used the 1025R to carry it from the truck to a spot where i stored it until i was ready to install.

This link will take you to the flagpole that i got. Everything is included in the price except the flag. I used the 4' x 6' flag, although, you could use a 5' x 7' flag on this size pole.
<i><h2>25ft (1) Piece<br>Wind Speed 105 Mph<h3><br>5" Butt Dia. x .125 Wall Thickness</i></h2><p><img src=http://rocktopsripoff.com/viewdetails1.jpg ALIGN=left><br><P><br>EXTERNAL HALYARD<br>COMMERCIAL FLAGPOLE.<br><p><font color=red>FREE SHIPPING!<p

Costs:
1. Flagpole $875.95 (includes all hardware and shipping)
2. 4' x 6' flag $44.95
3. Form lumber $40.00 approx.
4. 3/4" PVC conduit, electrical boxes and low voltage wire (I already have the low voltage transformer) $60.00 approx.
5. 1 -3/4 yard of concrete $399.00 (had to by 2 yard minimum)
6. Concrete vibrator rental $39.00
7. Lights - Kichler 15731BKT (black textured) spot lights $162.00 each (I used two lights, 180° apart, although, when I installed my electrical boxes and conduit, I installed a box at all four corners of the concrete pad, just in case. After seeing the pole last night, two of these lights are plenty). These lights are extremely high quality, have a narrow 10° beam angle so the light does not spread out and are recommended by Kichler for flag lighting.
Accent LED 8.5W 10 degree Lndscp 12 BKT
Flag Pole Lighting

All digging, back fill and pole install was done with the 1025R and me! I did have a helper to pour the concrete, although, with a vibrator, you can easily do this yourself.

The pole weighs about 75 lbs. by itself. The specs on the pole says the weight is 129 lbs. This is actually the shipping weight of everything: flagpole, heavy cardboard shipping tube, ground sleeve, and box with base cover, brass top, rope, top rotating rope halyard, rope tie off cleat and flag attaching clasps.

It did take some thought as to how to lift the pole and install it in the ground sleeve. I didn't have any help available for this part of the job :dunno:.

1. I covered the concrete with an old blanket so the pole wouldn't get scratched.
2. I then taped a rag around the top of the ROPS on the 1025.
3. I positioned the base of the flagpole so that it was at the opening of the ground sleeve. I had two 50 lb. bags of sand for the install so I laid the bags of sand over the end of the pole at the sleeve to keep it from lifting or moving.
4. I positioned the 1025R ROPS so that it was positioned about half way up the pole and aimed the front of the tractor towards the sleeve opening.
5. I lifted the pole and positioned it on top of the ROPS (hence that rag on the ROPS to keep from scratching the pole).
6. Then.....while sitting on the seat with the tractor in low range, i drove slowly towards the concrete base. As I drove forward, I held the pole off the ROPS as I moved forward. During this process, I stopped and checked the base end several times to make sure it wasn't moving.
7. When I got the tractor as close as I could to the concrete base, I stood up on the tractor floor holding the pole up, while holding the pole up, I slowly walked out the FEL boom while walking the pole up. At this point, the base of the pole was already started into the sleeve, so it wasn't as bad as it sounds.
8. The pole slide down into the sleeve, I had four wooded wedges laying at the base so I just centered it up and put the wedges between the pole and sleeve to hold it.
9. I plumbed the pole with my digital level. Since the pole tapers, being plumb isn't exactly level. I simply checked the angle on each side and made them all the same.
10. After getting the pole plumb, which wasn't hard at all, I then poured the sand in between the pole and sleeve, compacting it with a pre-made 1 1/4" x 2" x 3' long wooden compacting tool.
11. After getting the space between the pole and sleeve full, except for the top 1", I sealed the space between the pole and the sleeve with silicone chalk.
 

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Awsome write up Ray. Definately thinking about this very hard. Not sure about walking out the FEL arms though!

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:usa:usa:bigthumb::bigthumb::bigthumb::usa:usa
 

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Awsome write up Ray. Definately thinking about this very hard. Not sure about walking out the FEL arms though!

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Thanks again!!! Yea, I know, walking out the FEL boom arm sounds bad. Let me a be a little more clear as to how I did this so everyone knows I'm not a thrill seeker!! :laugh::laugh:

I had the bucket close to the ground while moving the tractor towards the base. This kept the FEL boom arms pretty much level. Prior to starting this process, I took a 2 x 8 and cut it down to fit and attached some cross pieces so that it sat on the grill guard and left side FEL boom arm and had a prop that sat on the floor on the left side. I then secured this walkway to the FEL boom arm and grill guard. This gave me a walkway to walk out. When I got to the end, I stepped down onto the top of the bucket and then to the ground. At this point the pole was all of the way down into the ground sleeve. Also, while walking out the walkway, I was lifting the pole with my hands over my head, and remember, the pole was already started down into the sleeve when I started this final step so the pole was secure at the base end. Having a hold of the pole gave me sort of a hand hold while walking out the retrofit walkway. This, sort of retrofitted walkway, actually made the process pretty easy and safe. Not OSHA approved but pretty good!!!
The entire process of putting the pole in the sleeve went without a hitch and there was never a moment that I felt like this wasn't going to go well.

Now, ideally, have a helper or two, to assist you!!! :thumbup1gif:

My one son that lives close to me was busy all weekend; my friends, that help each other, were either on vacation or doing something else; and my dad is 88 years old; and the fact that I was impatient and wanted to get this job done, left me to figure it out for myself. :dunno:
 

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Its wild that you just have sand holding that pole up.

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Its wild that you just have sand holding that pole up.

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Yea I know, it sounds like I'm hercules but I'm not. The entire pole only weighs about 75 lbs. so lifting it when it is at the fairly high angle that it was at at this point wasn't much at all. I would say it maybe 35 lbs. and the higher that the pole gets, the less effort it takes. :bigthumb:
 

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Ray, that is fricken awesome! Man on a mission, I am impressed! USA, USA!!!! :bigthumb::usa
 

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This is great

This is a great thread. The house that we bought came with a three section flag pole installed which looks and acts as cheap as it sounds. I'll have to investigate, but I'm guessing that the base for this sectional model is inadequate to support that pole that you bought.
 

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This is a great thread. The house that we bought came with a three section flag pole installed which looks and acts as cheap as it sounds. I'll have to investigate, but I'm guessing that the base for this sectional model is inadequate to support that pole that you bought.
Yes, I would say. The pole that I used has a 3' long ground sleeve with a 6" additional section on the bottom that has a 12" long grounding rod attached to the bottom of that plate. So, the hole has to be at least 3' - 6" deep plus a little deeper for a layer of 2B stone in the bottom. The minimum diameter of the hole has to be 3'.
I dug the hole for mine with the 1025R BH, so the hole ended up being about 4' in diameter, 4' deep. I used about 1 3/4 yards of concrete to fill the hole and forms at the top. This is about 7000 lb. of concrete.
 

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I dug the hole for mine with the 1025R BH, so the hole ended up being about 4' in diameter, 4' deep. I used about 1 3/4 yards of concrete to fill the hole and forms at the top. This is about 7000 lb. of concrete.
hmmm, what kind of wind will it take to move that? 500 mph??? 700 mph??? :laugh:

I just love looking at those pictures! I'll have to say it again... WOW!! :usa
 

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hmmm, what kind of wind will it take to move that? 500 mph??? 700 mph??? :laugh:

I just love looking at those pictures! I'll have to say it again... WOW!! :usa
Yea, the pole will surely bend before my concrete base moves. The hole kind of got that big from digging it with the BH. Going 4' deep is hard to do in a 3' diameter hole. :bigthumb:
 

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BH makes big hole

Yes, three days ago I planted a 20' telescoping flag pole in a hole dug with my BH. I mixed five 80 lb bags of cement one at a time in a wheelbarrow that I poured in over a 6" gravel base. Today the winds hit 15 with 20+ mph gusts and it's rock solid. The BH makes a huge hole, but when the temps are above 90 I'm not using a shovel!
 
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