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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for just a simple, inexpensive flat draw bar pre drilled for the 1025r hitch plate, about 18” to 24”.
Want an option to pull heavy $hit rather than jerking on the 3 point.

I know I could just source a piece of flat bar and drill it myself, but,,,,,, for 20 bucks, I’d save my time and effort and spend my money. :tongue:

Thanks
 

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Looking for just a simple, inexpensive flat draw bar pre drilled for the 1025r hitch plate, about 18” to 24”.
Want an option to pull heavy $hit rather than jerking on the 3 point.

I know I could just source a piece of flat bar and drill it myself, but,,,,,, for 20 bucks, I’d save my time and effort and spend my money. :tongue:
Can you elaborate on what you are looking for? Pre-drilled? 18-24-inches long?

The preferred solution to the short comings of the existing 1-series fixed drawbar is a 2-inch receiver hitch replacement plate. You can then attach any drawbar length you want.

As for using the 3PH, no worries about pulling things with it, that's what it was designed for.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Key words are —— flat bar, inexpensive

stock hitch plate mounting holes are 2 1/4 OC

Just like a swinging draw bar on a tractor.
 

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Key words are —— flat bar, inexpensive

stock hitch plate mounting holes are 2 1/4 OC

Just like a swinging draw bar on a tractor.
If I'm understanding you correctly. I don't see how you have enough mounting points for a swinging draw bar, or even a fixed draw bar like on larger tractors. Those draw bars all have two support points. The 1-series unfortunately just has a plate with a hitch hole similar to what you typically see on a garden tractor.

Take the swinging draw bar shown below. To have a long draw bar you have to first anchor the one end (#1) up underneath the tractor somewhere. You then support the draw bar at the rear of the tractor (#2). This allows the draw bar (#3) to extend out the back with all of the tongue weight supported by point #2. The 1-series doesn't have any place to serve as support #1. A true swinging draw bar has a wide slot at support #2 so that the draw bar itself can be pinned in positions off to one side or another. The fixed draw bars on most all SCUT/CUT tractors have only one position perpendicular to the tractor.

If I have this all wrong do you have a drawing of the item you which to fabricate?
 

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If I'm understanding you correctly. I don't see how you have enough mounting points for a swinging draw bar, or even a fixed draw bar like on larger tractors. Those draw bars all have two support points. The 1-series unfortunately just has a plate with a hitch hole similar to what you typically see on a garden tractor.
He doesn't want the entire swinging drawbar setup, He wants to mount item #3 from that image to his hitch plate. It won't swing but it will be a drawbar that is mounted below his PTO which is the best setup (from a safety perspective) for pulling.

That solid drawbar (if you prefer) has 2 holes at the mounting end. The hitch plate on the 1025R also has 2 holes. The question is, "Will the holes line up?"

I don't know of anyone that's tried it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
No man, yer over complicating it:laugh:

Just a length of 1/2 to 1” thick, FLAT BAR.
drill 2 holes, bolt it to the hitch plate
On the biz ness end drill another hole to drop a pin to attach a trailer, or put a shackle in the end to attach a chain.

I found a piece of scrap in my shed, but it’s not thick enough.
I would have thought that Deere or someone would have similar to bolt to this hitch plate. The dang thing is too far up under the machine to be any good with a short tongue trailer.

I’m well aware of the receiver hitch that bolts up to hitch plate, but I ain’t wanting no receiver hitch.
Already have that on the 3 point.
Just wanting another option that’s low and inline with the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
He doesn't want the entire swinging drawbar setup, He wants to mount item #3 from that image to his hitch plate. It won't swing but it will be a drawbar that is mounted below his PTO which is the best setup (from a safety perspective) for pulling.

That solid drawbar (if you prefer) has 2 holes at the mounting end. The hitch plate on the 1025R also has 2 holes. The question is, "Will the holes line up?"

I don't know of anyone that's tried it.
B I N G O !

Thank you sir.

:clapping:
 

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He doesn't want the entire swinging drawbar setup, He wants to mount item #3 from that image to his hitch plate. It won't swing but it will be a drawbar that is mounted below his PTO which is the best setup (from a safety perspective) for pulling.

That solid drawbar (if you prefer) has 2 holes at the mounting end. The hitch plate on the 1025R also has 2 holes. The question is, "Will the holes line up?"

I don't know of anyone that's tried it.

Ahhh... ok. The hole alignment doesn't seem like a problem that a drill bit couldn't solve. I would be a bit leery of having a 18-24 inch bar that is fastened to the factory hitch plate with bolts that are only a few inches apart (the depth of the plate). It wouldn't take much weight on the end of a draw bar that long to possibly twist the factory plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Was just a guess on the length, because I thought I may want it installed at the same time as the 3 point hitch / weight rack. But after looking it over a while ago, I think about 12-14” will do it.

Obviously nobody sells something for this particular hitch plate, so I’ll likely make my own.
 

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Was just a guess on the length, because I thought I may want it installed at the same time as the 3 point hitch / weight rack. But after looking it over a while ago, I think about 12-14” will do it.

Obviously nobody sells something for this particular hitch plate, so I’ll likely make my own.
12-14 inches shouldn’t cause any problems. Why not just drill the drawbar to fit the existing holes in your factory hitch plate?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
12-14 inches shouldn’t cause any problems. Why not just drill the drawbar to fit the existing holes in your factory hitch plate?
man yer killin me!

from my FIRST post >>> I know I could just source a piece of flat bar and drill it myself, but,,,,,, for 20 bucks, I’d save my time and effort and spend my money


Question was....is there something already made, for sale, or not? :banghead:
 

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Levi made just what you are talking about for his 1026, maybe he'll see this thread and give you a pic of his set up.
 

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Easy there, chief. People here not only like to answer your question, but also give you other options and ideas. J has a ton of knowledge to share. Never know, might pick up a good idea or two here.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I thought I was pretty clear about what I was looking for. Evidently what was clear to me, may not be to others, or my way of explaining wasn’t correct.

Won’t be the first time, or the last, that what my not so normal mind thinks, is relayed on correctly to others.
Appreciate all the help and comments.
 

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Hey guys, it’s all good. Written word can easily be taken out of context and misinterpreted. Let’s not go there and afford some benefit of the doubt? That’s the true GTT way. It always has been. :drinks:

So let’s let the hairs on the back of our necks relax and continue on tractoring! :greentractorride:
 

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Well, I thought I was pretty clear about what I was looking for. Evidently what was clear to me, may not be to others, or my way of explaining wasn’t correct.

Won’t be the first time, or the last, that what my not so normal mind thinks, is relayed on correctly to others.
Appreciate all the help and comments.
The questions are always clear to those doing the asking. :) Sorry dude... we are all just trying to help. Unfortunately it took a few convos to zero in on exactly what you were wanting to do. The old saying that a picture is worth a thousand words holds true here.

I always hesitate to say "never" but I'm 99.9% certain that no one makes a bolt on draw bar like you describe, especially since different applications would probably require different lengths. And... if someone did make one it would probably cost more than $20. TSC wants $50 for their generic draw bar stock and buying one like is used on a 2520 will cost ya $130 from JD (that's just for the hunk of bar steel).

The suggestion to go find a piece of thick flat bar and drill to match your plate is probably the best way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey guys, it’s all good. Written word can easily be taken out of context and misinterpreted. Let’s not go there and afford some benefit of the doubt? That’s the true GTT way. It always has been. :drinks:

So let’s let the hairs on the back of our necks relax and continue on tractoring! :greentractorride:
:good2:

I think if I continue to post much here, y’all will finger out I’m not typically one to take too serious. I take things lightly and like to have fun with most everything. People get too uptight these days, especially on the inter web.
I certainly didn’t intend to upset anyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I always hesitate to say "never" but I'm 99.9% certain that no one makes a bolt on draw bar like you describe, especially since different applications would probably require different lengths. And... if someone did make one it would probably cost more than $20. [/ QUOTE]

Yeah I agree with ya on that, I was grasping on finding something cheap.
I still wonder why Deere built this hitch plate the way it is and what is it used for.
Surely theres something that is designed to bolt up to that plate. ???
 

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Yeah I agree with ya on that, I was grasping on finding something cheap.
I still wonder why Deere built this hitch plate the way it is and what is it used for.
Surely theres something that is designed to bolt up to that plate. ???
THAT is a very good question. The odd thing is most dealers just LOVE to sell folks a 17P cart to go along with their new 1-series and unfortunately they get home and find they can't use it with the factory hitch plate. I guess if you had something with a super long tongue it would work.

To be truthful, it's not much better on the larger tractors. My 2720 has a conventional draw bar that resembles a swinging draw bar (except it is fixed and doesn't swing). Even when pulled all the way out it is still too short to use my 17P cart and still be able to make sharp turns without the tongue getting in the tires.

I guess that's why the replacement receiver hitch plates are so popular with 1-series owners. In my case I have to use a draw bar that attaches to the 3PH.
 

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You’d be the first if you knew what, how, where, and when. So far we haven’t seen anything for the OEM plate.
 
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