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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So after grabbing a root with my box blade, and literally ripping the pin thru the outside housing cover.... I did a search, and realized I wasn't the first one to have this happen.

So I decided to take a few photos to show the process. I'll go back and update this with some TQ specs and such, but for now, I can confirm it's as simple as flipping right to left.

It started off innocent enough... helping a neighbor grade a driveway using my 5 foot box blade and my 2520...
Plant Plant community Sky Tree Natural landscape

Until WHACK, I came to a stop... Caught a root on the right side from a hidden stump.
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VS what it should look like...
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So, now queue the repair... I took the pressure washer to the machine to remove as much dirt/grass/gunk as possible and had it dry overnight. I then used a nylon brush to get any remaining dirt and grass out of the way, so it didn't fall into the housing.

Jacked up, wheels removed on stands... Drain the overdue to be changed fluid and filter. Then drain each individual rear housing.
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Remove all the bolts and BAM, guts.
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Note the small bag I through over the remaining gear to keep it clean while scraping the gasket material. For the 2520, you'll need 2 new Gasket's - PN's LVU800349.
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Clean it all up, and rebolt it on!
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Note the broken tab is now located on the left side top, rather than the right side bottom.
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Now, that'd be great, if thats all the damage that was done... But it wasn't. The center hitch was also whacked pretty good, with the bushing... removed.
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Well, that part is $213, plus Tax, etc... so lets see if we can fix it.
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Looks pretty good... lets check out the size of the weld on the bushing (0 penetration). That'd explain why it pulled out so easy.
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Clean it up, tack it in place. NOTE: LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE. Make sure you place it back in with enough distance so that all the components can fit back in. I simply eyeballed it, and it got tight enough that I removed a little bit of material from my sway link, so I had some loose space between the hitch in the center and the outside cover housing. I'm no pro welder, but it'll do much better than before...
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Like new! Test fit, and weld size compared to other side... (I did go back, grind around the weld on the other side and buttered it up good to give me a little extra insurance).
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Some rattle can black, and an upgrade to the new (should have come factory) replacement arms, and she's back in business!!!
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Pulled no bearings (were in good shape), and was only out the gaskets and the 4-5 gallons of hyd fluid + filter that needed done anyways. (y)

FINAL NOTE: above photo shows the right connection between the top rocker arm that lifts the 3 pt and the lower arm, in an incorrect orientation. The lower link is spun 180. While it will function the wrong way, it puts the right arm at a good cant and makes hookups more difficult. It should be as shown below.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for the post. Wow... that must have really jerked you to a stop. As a 2720 owner I am very interested in this. It is the one design aspect of the 2520/2720 that I never liked.

Question... I'm assuming you didn't need to press out or in any bearings and that they were a hand fit in the two recesses?. The bearing shown below, how did you get it back behind the big gear. Was it just a matter of putting the rear of the case on first and slipping the bearing behind the big gear and into position?

View attachment 782706

Unfortunately with as much as I use a back blade pushing backwards during the winter I can't help but think a repair like this is in my future. :-(
Just a slight angle fit it in just fine... then a light squeeze with the bolts to final press the bearing back in the cover. Only thing I removed was the bolts holding the cover, the drain bolt, and the old gasket material.

Pushing with a 3 pt is never a great idea, but the sudden stop from hooking a tooth on a root definitely gets your attention.

With the additional welds on the hitch plate, I don't forsee a repeat... but i also won't be running the teeth nearly fully extended through root-infested trails. I'll cut it a few more times, with less stickout and make more passes. I was in a hurry, which is what normally causes you to break stuff.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Agree about the pushing with the 3-point but it is a necessity when clearing snow with a rear blade or snow removal. I pushed backwards with my old Ford 9N for over 20 years without a worry but the 3PH on that tractor had rigid braces that went out to the axles. A far cry from the lightweight aluminum parts on these newer machines.

Your photos will be very helpful in the unfortunate event that I have to one day do this repair.
hardest part? Putting the wheels back on the hub. Unless you change your jacking points, as soon as you get one wheel situated on the hub... it wants to tip that way. Get one started and a few bolts in, then slowly lower down to get the other one started...
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