Float or check valve on hydraulic side link?

The answer is unfortunately "it depends". If you are just bushhogging all the time, I can see the advantage of it floating, but if your primary reason for having a TnT setup is for boxblading then floating is not what you want. Both do not have to float, just one side.

Appreciate the info Kenny. I think I'll keep what I have as most of the reason for the top-n-tilt for me is rear blade, grading scraper, and rake work. My land pride RFM has floating links on it.

I will try to mechanically float the bush hog next time it comes out and see if it offers any advantages.

Thanks again!

Kelly

I know that this is an older thread, but wanted to comment anyway. There are certain times when you do want each side of a box blade or rear blade or landscape rake to be able to float up and down independently. A perfect example is at a Y in a road, the camber of the road changes as the road transitions. When the sides are allowed to move up and down independently, the grading implement will follow the terrain and not the tractor. This would typically be used for finish grading-smoothing. Another example would be raking a rough field where all you want to do is gather up debris, not really level things out. You need the implement to be able to move as freely as possible and this function allows for that.

Just a few examples. :bye:

My 4120 has float position on the lift arm pins, but I don't believe they offer enough travel for certain situations, like a fork or Y transition like MtnViewRanch described. If you're using a land plane you also need the top link to float for these same areas. A floating side link may also be useful for clearing snow with a rear blade.