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Hey everybody, it has been a while since I posted on here but I have a question for the experts. I am wanting to wire up 3 or 4 LED flood lights to my gooseneck flatbed. Mainly for loading and tying down equipment and materials after dark. No problem right? I could do this no problem if the trailer had a battery or if I wanted the switch on the trailer. I could just tie into the hot wire going to the break away because I don't want to add a battery. Here is where I want to make it difficult. I want to be able to turn the lights on using one of the upfitter switches in my 2011 F-250. I can't figure out in my small head how to make this work without having a seperate plug from the truck to the trailer for the lights. Is this possible????
 

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Hey everybody, it has been a while since I posted on here but I have a question for the experts. I am wanting to wire up 3 or 4 LED flood lights to my gooseneck flatbed. Mainly for loading and tying down equipment and materials after dark. No problem right? I could do this no problem if the trailer had a battery or if I wanted the switch on the trailer. I could just tie into the hot wire going to the break away because I don't want to add a battery. Here is where I want to make it difficult. I want to be able to turn the lights on using one of the upfitter switches in my 2011 F-250. I can't figure out in my small head how to make this work without having a seperate plug from the truck to the trailer for the lights. Is this possible????
You either need an additional plug or you have to re-wire the factory wiring harness for your 7-pin plug. IN THEORY, you could rewire the 7 pin plug and use your switch to control the hot leg. Not sure what your switch is rated for though. I *think* that hot lead is supposed to be 30 amp.


Personally, I'd throw a battery on the trailer and call it done. If you rely on using your switch, those lights will only work when you're hooked up to the truck. Plus, you muck up the truck wiring connector for use with anything else.
 

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if it has running lights, just hook them up to the wires for those. maybe add a bigger fuse in your truck if you need to.
 

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Hey everybody, it has been a while since I posted on here but I have a question for the experts. I am wanting to wire up 3 or 4 LED flood lights to my gooseneck flatbed. Mainly for loading and tying down equipment and materials after dark. No problem right? I could do this no problem if the trailer had a battery or if I wanted the switch on the trailer. I could just tie into the hot wire going to the break away because I don't want to add a battery. Here is where I want to make it difficult. I want to be able to turn the lights on using one of the upfitter switches in my 2011 F-250. I can't figure out in my small head how to make this work without having a seperate plug from the truck to the trailer for the lights. Is this possible????
Unfortunately, you seem to have it right. The lights have to have power, either from the truck electrical system or the trailer system. Do you have the 7 pin "RV" plug or a 6 pin plug? If you have a 7 pin, one wire in that connector is wired for reverse lights on the trailer. If your trailer doesn't have reverse lights, you could run a wire from your upfitter switch to that pole in the connector and then wire your work lights to that pole in the trailer connector. If you have a 6 pin, there are no 'extra' wires but you could convert it to a 7 pin. Otherwise, you'll need a battery and switch on the trailer or a separate plug.


The trailer should already have a battery for the brakes, it may need upgrading and adding a solar charger is easy-it should also charge when the truck is running.
Just a note, I have run into a surprising numbers of trailers that only supply charging power to the trailer's emergency brake battery when the vehicle's brake pedal is pressed, and does not charge it at all times. Check and make sure your trailer charges that battery whenever it's connected and not just when you hit the brakes if you want to use it for power. I don't recall the AH rating for most of those batteries, but it isn't much. Be sure you use some very low draw lights.

if it has running lights, just hook them up to the wires for those. maybe add a bigger fuse in your truck if you need to.
That would require a switch on the trailer, or the worklights would be on whenever the running lights were on.

You never want to plug a bigger fuse into a circuit. Fuses are there to protect the wiring. If you increase the load on a circuit to the point it blows the fuse, putting in a larger fuse will allow more current to try and flow than the wiring can handle. That can damage the wiring, switches, and potentially cause a fire.
 

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Unfortunately, you seem to have it right. The lights have to have power, either from the truck electrical system or the trailer system. Do you have the 7 pin "RV" plug or a 6 pin plug? If you have a 7 pin, one wire in that connector is wired for reverse lights on the trailer. If your trailer doesn't have reverse lights, you could run a wire from your upfitter switch to that pole in the connector and then wire your work lights to that pole in the trailer connector. If you have a 6 pin, there are no 'extra' wires but you could convert it to a 7 pin. Otherwise, you'll need a battery and switch on the trailer or a separate plug.
Just as an add-on here; There are two possible pins in a 7-pin connector that could be used.

Pin1 = Ground
Pin2 = Electric Brakes
Pin3 = Taillights/Running Lights
Pin4 = 12v
Pin5 = Left Turn
Pin6 = Right Turn
Pin7 = Backup/Aux

Pin 4 should always be wired for 12V/15A. Pin 7 (the center pin) depends on your vehicle. Some use it for the backup lights but most use it for a 30A Aux "always on" circuit. With my truck & camper, it provides a 30A charging circuit for the deep cycle batteries.
 

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Just as an add-on here; There are two possible pins in a 7-pin connector that could be used.

Pin1 = Ground
Pin2 = Electric Brakes
Pin3 = Taillights/Running Lights
Pin4 = 12v
Pin5 = Left Turn
Pin6 = Right Turn
Pin7 = Backup/Aux

Pin 4 should always be wired for 12V/15A. Pin 7 (the center pin) depends on your vehicle. Some use it for the backup lights but most use it for a 30A Aux "always on" circuit. With my truck & camper, it provides a 30A charging circuit for the deep cycle batteries.
I don't know exactly how the OP's truck is wired, but in either case the center pin should be adaptable to be switched. It would be easier if it was just for reverse lights than if it's a 30A circuit, but it's doable either way. For the 30A, he would need to put his upfitter switch on the control side of the factory installed relay that supplies power to the plug. For reverse lights, it may not have a relay at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the info guys. I just need all of you to convene at my house. I'll supply the beer and we will get this thing wired up. :bigthumb:
I have a 7 pin plug. Guess I need to start testing the plug and see what is wired for what. I'll let you know what I find. My trailer does not have back up lights so that is a viable option. I do hate to modify the truck wiring because your right it messes it up for future trailers. The breakaway kit does have a battery but it is self contained and a very small battery. It may just be easier to put a battery on it and use one of those wireless switches in the truck along with a switch on the trailer. I will need to make sure I'm getting charging power out of the plug. It should be charging the breakaway battery, but I haven't physically checked. The only reason I would like to have a switch in the truck is for when I am backing it up at night. It would be nice to be able to flip on those flood lights and actually see something besides the running lights. Thanks for all your good thoughts on this!
 

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Not much help from me........... but I would just load the trailer in the daytime! PROBLEM SOLVED!:good2:


Good luck with your project
 

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If you are willing to do a little more work - you could leave your existing trailer plug exactly as it is.

Build a pigtail that would plug in between your existing plug and the trailer. Then you could run a wire off of that up to the switch on your dash and you'd be all set.

That way your truck wiring stays OEM and you can still work your lights like you want to. :good2:
 

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Not much help from me........... but I would just load the trailer in the daytime! PROBLEM SOLVED!:good2:


Good luck with your project
Ah the KISS principle :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The pig tail was the direction I was leaning until I put a little more thought into it, and realized that would wouldn't work all that well either. I plug the gooseneck in inside the bed of the truck and adding a pig tail would require drilling another hole which I would rather not do.

Loading the trailer during the day would require me not to work past dark....Heck I think that is the best idea yet!!:laugh:
 

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the worklights would be on whenever the running lights were on.

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the running lights are on at night anyway. there should be a running light switch in the truck.
 

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the running lights are on at night anyway. there should be a running light switch in the truck.
You don't want the work lights on all the time the running lights are on. The person behind you wouldn't appreciate it when running down the highway in the dark.

Using the center pin would be the best option and would not require modifying any of the trucks wiring factory wiring other than snipping the wire at the plug for the center pin(if it even has one) and running a wire upto the the front and to the wire for the up-fitter switch. Depending on year they are terminated under the dash on the left side near the e-brake. If I remember right two switches are 10amp and two are 20amp. 20amp is plenty for a pair of LED lights and then you wouldn't need to run a relay.

Using the center pin would not interfere with using other trailers. Since its on a switched supply you would just leave it off when towing another trailer. If that trialer has back up lights or an aux charging circuit just turn on as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I need to check and see if my center pin is back up or AUX power. If it is backup I'm going to go that rout. Sounds like very little modification while achieving desired results. I will let you guys know what I find out tonight.

Do you think I can trust the wife to put it in reverse while I check the plug, and not give into the urge of running me over? :unknown:
 

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the running lights are on at night anyway. there should be a running light switch in the truck.
You don't want the work lights on all the time the running lights are on. The person behind you wouldn't appreciate it when running down the highway in the dark.

Using the center pin would be the best option and would not require modifying any of the trucks wiring factory wiring other than snipping the wire at the plug for the center pin(if it even has one) and running a wire upto the the front and to the wire for the up-fitter switch. Depending on year they are terminated under the dash on the left side near the e-brake. If I remember right two switches are 10amp and two are 20amp. 20amp is plenty for a pair of LED lights and then you wouldn't need to run a relay.

Using the center pin would not interfere with using other trailers. Since its on a switched supply you would just leave it off when towing another trailer. If that trialer has back up lights or an aux charging circuit just turn on as needed.
:banghead::banghead: stupid me! yeah, i guess you would need an extra switch.
 
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