Rustoleum epoxy in my barn - tackroom, paint shop, and workshop.
Be sure to wipe up any paint and glue spills or drips before they dry. Dried carpenters glue leaves ugly brown spots that are impossile to remove without chipping up the epoxy coating. The JD green stains aren't as bad looking, but don't come up either.
Anyone know if there is a touch up kit for Rustoleum epoxy, or does it only come in gallons?
Proper prep is key. 3 spaces have it here and the last one previous owners did missed some prep. Some has pealed back up with oil, cleaning and even just tires rolling over it. Others no issue but first owner did those and likely right after being built vs years later.
Does reflex a lot more light in the room. Paint for ceilings and walls with floor coating and you really could get away with fewer lights.
Really helps in the rust belt to protect against road salt. My garage is older then my parents but mine has no issue and there's is getting chewed up some from the salt damage. Plus theirs doesn't drain - just pools on the floor. Drain is also key.
Another point with a garage is whether you can drive straight in, or have to turn the wheels on top of the coating. Wife learned to drive with power steering and tends to turn her cars wheels back and forth when it's not rolling.
Turning will peel the epoxy if the floor prep isn't done right. An older garage with a lot of oil soaked into it is really hard to get right. A new floor like in the OP shouldn't be nearly as hard to get done correctly.
BTW, the Rustoleum floor epoxy comes in 4 stock colors. I chose the tan one and glad I did. All the sawdust in the shop, and that I track across the other areas, blends in to the floor color and I don't feel the need to sweep as often. If I ever decide to do the barn center aisle I'll have a custom tint as close to horse manure as I can find.:laugh:
I also have the Rustoleum floor in my garage. I used the solvent based epoxy and topped with the solvent clear. It?s been 11 years and it?s held up great! The only failures are where embers from the oxy torch kissed the floor and where friends have left brake fluid standing. The brake fluid did not lift the epoxy at all, but it did yellow the clear a bit. There has been zero tire lift on the epoxy in my garage. Previously I used U-coat in the old place. It was a total waste on money, failed in a matter of weeks. In my next shop I?d like to apply one of the self leveling clear costs for more shine.
Rustoleum here also. Second floor I have done. The prep is very important as mentioned and tough work! Use a good degreaser, scrub, scrub, scrub, rinse rinse rinse, squeegee, etch, rinse, etch rinse, whew! and let dry completely. And very important to let the paint catalyze before application or you will have a gooey mess! Follow directions...
I used Durall concrete floor coatings on my shop in Texas. It worked out really well. Not the cheapest solution but well worth the cost if you ask me. I think I spent around $500 for a 1200 sqf shop. I actually ordered a gallon more than I needed but I would have rather had more than not enough. I did that shop in 2013. I am getting ready to build another shop here in North Carolina and plan on using it again.
As others have stated preparation is the key to whatever floor coating you are going to put down. You need to treat your floor like you are getting ready to paint a metal surface, clean, clean and clean again.
I recently put in a floor in my pole barn (spring 2016). For a portion of it I wanted a coating to make it look nice and hold up better (where there is a higher potential of driving vehicles in with sand/slush/salt on them). I looked into the do-it-yourself options and everything I found seemed to be prone to not lasting too long, at least not in its original look. I decided to have a guy put down commercial-grade coating with full chip color. I believe it is a polyurea process. Not cheap but you only get one chance to do things right on a new floor. I'm very pleased with the results. I don't have access to any pics now but I'll throw one up later. My floor is also set up for radiant heating but I don't have the shed insulated and no boiler yet. But this stuff is compatible with heated floors.