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I initially filled the front tires on my 2720 with Rim Guard and when it was in getting the 3rd SCV installed the dealer called asking who filled the front tires. He "strongly" recommended removing it to avoid any future warranty issues. His exact words were "If you have any drive train issues it will be difficult for us to give you any love". So I took it out.
Thats interesting. Some people use front wheel weights so wonder what the difference is. Dont really understand it being hard kn the drivetrain. Most large tractors have filled fronts.


Cub Cadet Pro Z S148
Zforce SX 48
John Deere 2038r FEL
(2) 80 carts
15 cart
Frontier ss1023b
Frontier af10f
Land Pride QH05 quick hitch
Victory EF 155 flail mower
48” sand filled lawn roller
 

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Thats interesting. Some people use front wheel weights so wonder what the difference is. Dont really understand it being hard kn the drivetrain. Most large tractors have filled fronts.
They didn't say not to fill the front tires on any tractor. They were specific about the Gen-1 2-series.
 

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Rim Guard may not corrode the rims but it sure can do a number on the valve stem cores.

View attachment 781132
Mine came from the dealer with Rim guard in the rears. Dealer said they do it to all the new tractors. I went and tried to release some pressure in one of them, depressed the doohickey and nothing came out. Yes, it was in the 12:00 position. Probly gotta blow some air in to clean it and then release. Calling the dealer and might have them fix it.
 

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Mine came from the dealer with Rim guard in the rears. Dealer said they do it to all the new tractors. I went and tried to release some pressure in one of them, depressed the doohickey and nothing came out. Yes, it was in the 12:00 position. Probly gotta blow some air in to clean it and then release. Calling the dealer and might have them fix it.
I attempted to check the pressure in my tires and upon releasing the gauge the valve stem refused to reseal and it continued to leak air until the tire was flat. When I tried to remove the valve core the threads were so gunked up with hardened Rim Guard that the valve core broke off in the stem. Thank goodness I was able to remove it with an Easy Out. I cleaned the threads with a valve core tool and installed a new core. Then I went to the other tire and the same exact thing happened except on that one I was able to get the valve core out without it breaking off.
 

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I looked into this and went with wheel weights. My thought process.
Water is interesting if you live in warmer climates, but where is freezes, is not the best choice. Besides, water will corrode the wheels. With expenses increasing I really don't want o degrade components faster. I decided against water.
Anything alcohol based is flammable and fires do start. The tractor would be sitting on gallons of extremely flammable liquid. I have seen combines burnt down, and fires happen on equipment. It's rare, but it does happen. This was not a solution for me.
Beet juice is acidic and likely contribute to corrosion. Nope.
I still wanted to preserve the warranty and insurance on the tractor. My question is the tractor still covered if tires are filled with a liquid, not in the manual. The answer leaned no, so I bit the expense and got wheel weights.
A couple years back, I called about prices on filling the tires with liquid at our tire dealership just down the road, who specializes in Ag tires. When I asked, he laughed, and said he hasn't has someone ask about that in 10 years. It got me thinking.
I am not saying I am right, it's just the process I went through.
There is also the option of counter weights.
I have never had a rim corrode from having water in the tires. We have tubed tires. Also you are suppose to fill the tires to just above the wheel so the wheels stay submerged in water. It keeps corrosion to a minimum.

I would hate to know that i had to repair a cut tire filled with beet juice (molasses consistency). I have had tires get cut from pieces of buried metal (broken fence post). drained the water and put a boot in the tire and a new tube. Good to go.
 
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I have never had a rim corrode from having water in the tires. We have tubed tires. Also you are suppose to fill the tires to just above the wheel so the wheels stay submerged in water. It keeps corrosion to a minimum.

I would hate to know that i had to repair a cut tire filled with beet juice (molasses consistency). I have had tires get cut from pieces of buried metal (broken fence post). drained the water and put a boot in the tire and a new tube. Good to go.
You are lucky to live in a climate where you can use water. In northern climates water is not an option.
 

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I looked into this and went with wheel weights. My thought process.
Water is interesting if you live in warmer climates, but where is freezes, is not the best choice. Besides, water will corrode the wheels. With expenses increasing I really don't want o degrade components faster. I decided against water.
Anything alcohol based is flammable and fires do start. The tractor would be sitting on gallons of extremely flammable liquid. I have seen combines burnt down, and fires happen on equipment. It's rare, but it does happen. This was not a solution for me.
Beet juice is acidic and likely contribute to corrosion. Nope.
I still wanted to preserve the warranty and insurance on the tractor. My question is the tractor still covered if tires are filled with a liquid, not in the manual. The answer leaned no, so I bit the expense and got wheel weights.
A couple years back, I called about prices on filling the tires with liquid at our tire dealership just down the road, who specializes in Ag tires. When I asked, he laughed, and said he hasn't has someone ask about that in 10 years. It got me thinking.
I am not saying I am right, it's just the process I went through.
There is also the option of counter weights.
In the FEL manual it states liquid filled tires for ballast so I don’t see how they could void the warranty if you do what the manual says....

Edit: was already mentioned; I was just replying as I made my way through the thread.

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Another question. Did any of you fluid fill your fronts?


Cub Cadet Pro Z S148
Zforce SX 48
John Deere 2038r FEL
(2) 80 carts
15 cart
Frontier ss1023b
Frontier af10f
Land Pride QH05 quick hitch
Victory EF 155 flail mower
48” sand filled lawn roller
All four of mine have rim guard. It’s minimal weight for the fronts; but my thought process was in a scenario where 4WD was needed; it would give a bit more bite/traction.


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I have the rim guard brand of beet juice in the rear tires of my 4700. there is 110 gallons giving 1210 pounds of ballast.
I Figured I didn't need it in the front tires. Maybe someday I'll know that I want it in the fronts, but I figured I could live without it for now. $3.80 per gallon for the Rimguard here.

After hearing your valve core troubles I sure hope that I don't have problems with them.
at $6 a pop for the valve stems, lets hope the 'AIR/WATER' part means they are specially designed for liquids and don't corrode.

Price Unit Price Condition Description Reference Code/Tech* Qty
$874.00 $437.00 17.5X24 GOODYEAR R14T 151 - 2
$356.00 $178.00 10X16.5 GOODYEAR R14T 15142939 AC 2
$418.00 $3.80 GALLON OF RIM GUARD BALLAST 154 - 110
$23.92 $5.98 BRASS AIR/WATER STEM 154 - 4
 

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For those of you that went with fluid filled rears, did you use beat juice or something else and why? I ordered a set of wheel weights when I bought the 2038r but they were and are still on back order. Im thinking of just cancelling the wheel weight order and going fluid filled. My dealer uses beet juice which I think os what rimguard is. Local tire place uses methanol which is about half the price of the rim guard. Dealer wants price per gallon and $104 labor to do both wheels. Tire place is a flat $6/gallon.


Cub Cadet Pro Z S148
Zforce SX 48
John Deere 2038r FEL
(2) 80 carts
15 cart
Frontier ss1023b
Frontier af10f
Land Pride QH05 quick hitch
Victory EF 155 flail mower
48” sand filled lawn roller
Its not a question which. You need all three wheel weights, tire ballast and rear ballast weight via suitcase weights or weight box filled . To use your loader safely you will need all three methods. Kent
 
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Its not a question which. You need all three wheel weights, tire ballast and rear ballast weight via suitcase weights or weight box filled . To use your loader safely you will need all three methods. Kent
^^^this

If you look the FEL manual will have a combination of ALL three listed as MINIMUM ballast.


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In the FEL manual it states liquid filled tires for ballast so I don’t see how they could void the warranty if you do what the manual says....
The dealers concern was about liquid in the front tires.
 
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The dealers concern was about liquid in the front tires.
I was meaning in ref to the OPs original question/concern and the concept you can choose just one of the methods; that’s all I meant.

In regards to front; my dealer put the rim guard in my fronts. That’s a 4 series; so it very well could depend on the series too.


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Hi All
Her in Australia we use plain water, the temperature doesn't go below 0 Deg C (32 Deg F), except on frosty mornings and then only a couple of degrees and only an hour or two. So plan water is fine, and cheap.
Regards John
 
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