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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 3005 tractor and love it. The problem or concern I have is my garage doors have just over one inch of clearance from the top of my ROPS. I also have a very large stock trailer that is covered. I would love to have a ROPS that hinged and could be folded down eight inches or so. With that modification I could go into/out of the garage without worries (especially with snow build up). I could fold the ROPS and back into the big trailer and transport my tractor in a covered trailer. That will eliminate buying another (flatbed) trailer just to haul the tractor. Any suggestions? Cut the ROPS and weld heavy hinge pin loops onto it? Do they sell something like a hinge kit for such a mod?
 

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I doubt you'll find a ready made kit for this modification due to liability. Theoretically you could look at the design on some folding ROPS and fabricate something, but that makes me a bit nervous. Assuming the modifications were properly done, the major stress point still changes if (Heaven forbid) you ever roll the machine. The tubing that your ROPS is made of might not be strong enough to withstand a rollover once you change the way those forces are transferred through the structure.

I would suggest measuring your ROPS mounting points, and then trying to find a unit that was designed to fold that you can mount to your tractor. Replace the entire assembly, instead of just attaching hinges to yours.

One other thought, does your stock trailer have tie down points to secure the tractor inside it? You would need to add some if it doesn't. Even with the brakes set and implements down, equipment will shift when it's being hauled if it isn't strapped/ chained/ blocked into position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I mounted 8 heavy duty tie downs through the floor. That trailer has hauled alot of things and those tie-downs were a good move.
I thought of a sleeve and pin system as well. Using heavy wall 2x3 steel I could cut the ROPS and weld on a sleeve. The upper portion of ROPS could be un-pinned and lifted off for low clearance the set back on and pinned for normal ops. The heavy wall would actually be stronger than the original ROPS tubing and add rigidity. That might be a stronger alternative to hinges.
 

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This can be a touchy subject for obvious reasons, but at least your asking the correct questions and not just cutting it off.

I would (and probably will be for a friend on his old 970) duplicate the way they do it now, with plates and heavy pins. I can get you pictures if you want just to help you do it the best way possible. Having a certified weldor do it would be best but he/she may be hesitant. If you ever sell the machine I would provide full written disclosure and/or provide a OEM one to the new owner.

One other thing, check with Femco, they used to make some for others and may for yours as well.
 

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While I agree with most of 56's statements, I'm going to disagree with the bit about needing another ROPs. I'm not against replacement by any means. But finding one that fits and certified for the 3005? That's a tall order. The liability with that is just as high. If properly modified (your sleeve and pin idea is great) I don't see any harm in it. Sure, the liability now rests solely on your shoulders should this be attempted. The 3005 is not a huge tractor, therefore not super heavy. It wouldn't take much to protect the operator in case of a roll-over. If properly modifying the ROPs keep you from removing it for ease of storing and operating, I think that's a plus.
 

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One other thing, check with Femco, they used to make some for others and may for yours as well.
I guess a replacement ROPs might not be a tall order. :lol:
 

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While I agree with most of 56's statements, I'm going to disagree with the bit about needing another ROPs. I'm not against replacement by any means. But finding one that fits and certified for the 3005? That's a tall order.
Just to clarify, I don't think he needs another ROPS. However, if his base brackets are 34" apart (I'm just making up numbers for an example) and the 1026R brackets are also 34" apart, then it might be a better alternative to modify the mounts a bit to make the 1026R ROPS fit his machine, than cutting and hinging his current unit. I didn't expect there to be a source for aftermarket ROPS, so the link Kenny provided would definitely be worth checking into.

With that said, I like the sleeve and lift off idea. That seems much better than a simple hinge. The hinge idea bothers me because we know tubing that's not welded or fastened all the way around will twist and bend if subjected to enough pressure, especially at an angle. The hinge on the rear (presumably) may hold up in a fore/ aft rollover, but the stress of a side roll may be too much for the tubing and hinge both to withstand if it's only connected on the rear of the tube. Not to mention the risk of the welds tearing the surrounding metal in an accident. The risk I see with the lift off idea is the tubing being weakened by the pin holes and the pins tearing out. Then again, I tend to over think/ over engineer everything. :lol: Truth be told, I think the lift off idea would probably work just fine. A properly done hinge would probably be okay as well, but I think the sleeve idea is better. My biggest problem with the hinge is that the tubing has little to no support on the side opposite the hinge pin.

Of course, all that is simply theory and ideas. I'm not one to get hung up on telling somebody how to handle their equipment, especially when none of my tractors even have ROPS! :lol: They were built just a little bit before that became standard.
 

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Ya know guys.............

Most of us know that an appropriete retro-fit would solve this! It's just a shame that our society has got everyone thinking, if I do this, later, I might have to "Lawyer-Up".............~S
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Simpler solution

I tinkered around and found a simpler solution and one that does not require modifying my ROPS in any way. There are 4 large bolts attaching the ROPS to the tractor chasis. I removed the two top bolts and loosened the two lower ones a couple turns. This allowed the entire unit to be laid back and yet be still attached. I drive right in my covered trailer with no problems. I keep the bolts and a wrench in the user manual tube (on the ROPS). When I back out of the trailer I simply stand my ROPS back up, install the bolts and all is good in the world. This may work with other makes of JD tractors for guys who have enclosed trailers. Simple solution to a simple problem. Thanks for all your ideas. It's still nearly 24 hour daylight in AK. The tractor is getting alot of play (I mean work) time:tongue:
 
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