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Discussion Starter #1
I'm just about set to go with something in the 2XXX series SCUT's (most probably 2720) and now I'm wondering which mower setup would be best/easiest/most flexible for 3.5 acres of gently sloping grassland with few trees?

I've been looking at all the JD belly mowers and Frontier "Grooming Mowers" with the idea that something in the neighborhood of 70" would fit my bill. I'm leaning towards a 3pt grooming mower because I won't have as much trouble disconnecting it for FEL/BH use.

I've got a 48C on the GX335 for "close in work" and leaf duty, so I need some tips on buying AND using a grooming mower. I've never used a trailing or 3pt type mower before, so all ideas are welcome!
 

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RFM's are great in wide open areas, not so great around obstacles IMHO. Since they are attached to the tractor via the 3PH they will swing out quite a bit when you turn. A 2520/2720 will have no trouble running a 72" RFM.
 

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I can only give my own personal experience here. I had a RFM and rear rotary mower on my old 40U. My yard is not level. It has lots of hills and dips and lots of trees. I hated using any rear mower on it because they stick so far out the back and are tough to swing around tight places, plus on hills and dips they are always cutting too high or digging in unless you either remove the toplink or use a chain or something flexible to allow the mower to float. When I decided to get a new tractor there were several models I was looking at. When the dealer told me not all of the ones I was looking at could use a MMM, I told him a MMM was a requirement so only show me those tractors that could use one. If you have another mower to use around trees, and the yard is relatively flat, a rear mower should work okay. I still have my rear rotary mower for clearing out brush, but the areas I use it in are mostly flat and if there are any small trees in the way I mow them down and don't try to drive around them. :)
 

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For mowing wide open spaces I would get a flex wing mower, some times called bat wing mowers. Some mount to the 3pt others are pull type. I'm not sure how big the 2720 could handle maybe 8-10' ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Y'all got me to re-thinking the mower now... I thought RFM would be easier for attaching with loader/bh mounting stuff in the way under the tractor(?), but I guess the "drive over" deck for the 2720 would be pretty easy also. I know a single wheel cutter is out for this property, I'd need the stability of the 4 swivel wheels as there is a slight slope around half of it.

Which brings up another question: Does a PTO mounted RFM "float" and follow ground contours in the lowered position? This is a non issue with a MMM so it would be pretty important to me for a trailing mower. I've never used 3pt attachments and I don't really know how they handle. (Yet!:laugh:)
 

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I have the 62D MMM on my 2520 and am extremely pleased with the quality of the cut. I have heard comprative comments regarding the 72" deck as well.

FWIW: The 2x20 series machines are CUTs, not SCUTs.
 

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Which brings up another question: Does a PTO mounted RFM "float" and follow ground contours in the lowered position? This is a non issue with a MMM so it would be pretty important to me for a trailing mower. I've never used 3pt attachments and I don't really know how they handle. (Yet!:laugh:)
On most RFMs there is a small link the toplink connects to. This link can pivot fore and aft to account for some of the dips and rises, but not all of them. Otherwise, yes, the RFM will basically float over the ground. You can lower the 3PH height lever all the way down and all the 3PH linkage does is tow the RFM behind you and make sure it doesn't move side-to-side.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the useful info!!! I just came back from the property (going into contract tomorrow YEAYYYYY!!!) and I spent a couple hours with the owner going over property lines, etc. I think for the new tractor a 72" MMM will be the way to go. There's very few obsticles and most of the place is very smooth.

PLUS++++ I get a nice one owner Wheelhorse 310-8 w/4' MMM AND a Kubota 4WS "something or other diesel" with a 6' MMM in the home deal. It was too dark back in the shop to see more than the back end of the Kabota... "Whoopie....!":laugh:
 

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Thanks for all the useful info!!! I just came back from the property (going into contract tomorrow YEAYYYYY!!!) and I spent a couple hours with the owner going over property lines, etc. I think for the new tractor a 72" MMM will be the way to go. There's very few obsticles and most of the place is very smooth.

PLUS++++ I get a nice one owner Wheelhorse 310-8 w/4' MMM AND a Kubota 4WS "something or other diesel" with a 6' MMM in the home deal. It was too dark back in the shop to see more than the back end of the Kabota... "Whoopie....!":laugh:
Well, if get that orange clunker sized up for a trade, you could use it while you're waiting on the Green Machine.

Sounds like you're on your way... Congrats. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, if get that orange clunker sized up for a trade, you could use it while you're waiting on the Green Machine.

Sounds like you're on your way... Congrats. :)
To quote Roseanna Roseannadana, "It's always sumpthin'!" Buried 1000 gal. home heating (OR diesel:laugh:) tank right next to the garage wall. It goes or we don't sign. There's just too much responsibility to keep the NYS Dept of EnCon happy with all their tank rules! Ball's in seller's court... If this deal goes down I might have to downsize to the 1026r.:rain:

"Orange clunker" is a '90(?) G1800S AWS w/52" deck exactly. I might just form an "interbrand collection" for a while. Quick reasearch sez most owners liked them pretty well... I don't know how they could since they ain't green.
 

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To quote Roseanna Roseannadana, "It's always sumpthin'!" Buried 1000 gal. home heating (OR diesel:laugh:) tank right next to the garage wall. It goes or we don't sign. There's just too much responsibility to keep the NYS Dept of EnCon happy with all their tank rules! Ball's in seller's court... If this deal goes down I might have to downsize to the 1026r.:rain:

"Orange clunker" is a '90(?) G1800S AWS w/52" deck exactly. I might just form an "interbrand collection" for a while. Quick reasearch sez most owners liked them pretty well... I don't know how they could since they ain't green.
lol...

I was seriously pursuing that color for my first tractor. But, a bad attitude from a dealer combined with a flat-out ridiculous price quite literally SHOVED the Deere into my stable.

As for the tank - not only do they need to remove it, but make sure you have it documented six ways from Sunday and on file with the town that it was removed. If you ever go to sell, that buried tank will show up in a search and you will need to have quite the stack of papers to prove that it's gone. Get anyone and everyone that's willing to come out and witness its removal to do so (from government offices). And, make sure the current seller understands that you have a say in how the tank is removed or the sale is off. You don't need to choose the vendor, but you have right-of-first-refusal on the date and who is allowed and required to be present.
 

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Some additional suggestions for the removal of the tank is to have a d.e.p representative consulted and/or present for the removal. That way you don't incur any fines for the way the tank was removed and/or disposed of. They will want to know that there was no procuct leaked into the ground from the tanks and it will be better for you in the long run if you involve the environmental folks now.
 

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Some additional suggestions for the removal of the tank is to have a d.e.p representative consulted and/or present for the removal. That way you don't incur any fines for the way the tank was removed and/or disposed of. They will want to know that there was no procuct leaked into the ground from the tanks and it will be better for you in the long run if you involve the environmental folks now.
+1

DEP is exactly who I had in mind with my previous comments, but left things more general because there could be other "officials" that you would benefit from having present.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
"I was seriously pursuing that color for my first tractor. But, a bad attitude from a dealer combined with a flat-out ridiculous price quite literally SHOVED the Deere into my stable."
That is the exact same situation led me to my Deere. I live exactly 3 miles either way between Green and Orange dealers on the same highway. Mr. Orange had screwed me over on a Snapper mower repair (under warranty, no less) so he was out.

Thanks everyone for the tank help!!! I was getting info this morning on laws, rules, regulations, sub-paragraphs and numbers of the folks I need to call for some general estimates. I'll go armed into the fray with as much information as I can get when the dealing begins for certain. Absolutely no way do I want to adopt that tank! It's gone or I'm gone, too much red tape risk for me.

I've got to work around it through so everyone is happy because Wifey will hold me personally responsible for losing this particular home for the rest of my wretched natural life. Of course you all know I could accept losing the view, nice home, 3 bay barn, duck pond, in-ground pool, donkey shed and corral... without so much as a whimper. (Yeah right, if it all goes South just shoot me!):laugh:
 

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That is the exact same situation led me to my Deere. I live exactly 3 miles either way between Green and Orange dealers on the same highway. Mr. Orange had screwed me over on a Snapper mower repair (under warranty, no less) so he was out.

Thanks everyone for the tank help!!! I was getting info this morning on laws, rules, regulations, sub-paragraphs and numbers of the folks I need to call for some general estimates. I'll go armed into the fray with as much information as I can get when the dealing begins for certain. Absolutely no way do I want to adopt that tank! It's gone or I'm gone, too much red tape risk for me.

I've got to work around it through so everyone is happy because Wifey will hold me personally responsible for losing this particular home for the rest of my wretched natural life. Of course you all know I could accept losing the view, nice home, 3 bay barn, duck pond, in-ground pool, donkey shed and corral... without so much as a whimper. (Yeah right, if it all goes South just shoot me!):laugh:
Bear in mind that, as the potential buyer, you typically have NO SAY in who does the work or how much it costs. You'll need to write in a clause to your offer that states the tank will be removed at the buyer's cost, and that you are able to participate in the scheduling of its removal, and you have the right to review any work quotes to ensure that it will be done correctly (according to appropriate laws) PRIOR to the work being done. And, if the work is contracted and completed without your written approval of the vendor / process, the contract for purchase is immediately rendered null and void.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Bear in mind that, as the potential buyer, you typically have NO SAY in who does the work or how much it costs. You'll need to write in a clause to your offer that states the tank will be removed at the buyer's cost, ...
Let's make that "seller's cost"?:laugh: Excellent advice there! So far that's the only real deal breaker we've seen... as long as all the CO's are in order and the broker is looking into that.
 

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Let's make that "seller's cost"?:laugh: Excellent advice there! So far that's the only real deal breaker we've seen... as long as all the CO's are in order and the broker is looking into that.
Yeah, yeah, yeah... Details, details. You sure are picky. ;)
 

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I live in NJ and just had my heating oil tank (550 Gallon) removed from the ground. It had been there since 1959. It looked like 3/8" steel. In NJ you have to get a permit to remove it and then the town comes to inspect for leakage. Then you get all your paperwork. You cannot do this yourself although up until 2 years ago you could. You have to use a approved contractor who gets the permit and once that is approved the come and uncover thetank and then cut a hole in it and open the hole, suck out the oil and sludge, clean it with a scraper and then remove it and then it is inspected. Hopefully there are no leaks and then you are good to go. Since it is inspected by the town then it goes on the records and of course you get all the paperwork to prove that it was removed.

These tanks in the ground are a real hassle and can run into some big $ if they have been leaking. The ones put in in the 70's are the worst. The contractor I used told me that he has seen them with the bottom completely gone and the oil and sludge is sitting in the ground!

You are doing the right thing.
 

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Any updates on how you're progressing, HH?
 

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Any updates on how you're progressing, HH?
Sorry for delay, 'puter kaput-laptop sucks for typin'! :laugh: Wed. is "test day", and then I have to figger out how to get money off the tank @ the negotiating table. Agent sez owner can't afford to remove tank so it will be on me. I think a nice little escrow fund set out of the final price might just cover my ass-etts and the removal. This way if there's some badness under the tank I should be covered. In any case, I want this place and I guess it means being "flexible" $ome, just how much we have yet to decide.
 
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