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Ford 1720 a rust bucket

2419 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  RandallCK
My 1720 Ford has always been kept under a roof. But it still attracts the rust like a magnet. Decided I need to do more body work and go over the tractor. Bought it new in 85, has never let me down. Bush hogging, finish mower, moving round bales and dragging logs. The new New Holland tractors can't hold a candle to this series of tractors. other than the sheet metal must be made of cream cheese, as if you look at it wrong it gets dented and warped up. LOL Does not leak a drop of hydraulic fluid or engine oil, and only thing I have had to buy for it was an ignition switch. Hydraulic filter had chunks of brake disk lining all over it. Filter was still about 75 hours out for scheduled change. Other than a rust magnet, it is well built, and everything but ignition switch is original, even tires. Over 700 hours. The patch is 16 GA. half hard stainless steel formed to fit radius and bends of fender. It was applied with a bed of aircraft grade synthetic rubber, under the patch, then attached with aircraft grade stainless steel rivets. That patch will be there long after the tractor is tested away....the fenders are made up of 5 pieces of thin sheet metal and spot welded together. Dirt and water gets trapped between the pieces and causes rust. I have since sprayed undercoating inside the fenders sealing up the seams, as well as applying synthetic rubber filled on outside. The last pic is of a reinforcement that stiffens up the rear edge of fender and should keep it from getting dented. Its made of 10 GA. steel bent into an angle 3/8" x 3/4" and riveted and sealed with rubber. No flex at sll in the fenders now. Left and right sides were done and Ruston is same on both sides along with other areas. I mugged and ground down what was weldable, and used an epoxy resin that's tough as nails to fill deep corrosion and dents, in place of bondo.
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and only thing I have had to buy for it was an ignition switch.
question for you I have a 2110 which is pretty similar, did you have to remove the instrument panel to get at the ignition switch, I have one on order and need to put it in, thanks.
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I have a 1700 bought in 1979, the switch on it can be replaced without taking the instrument panel off. The ign switch front side unscrews off and lets the switch to be pushed out the back side, Be sure to mike a diagram of where the colored wires go back on.
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question for you I have a 2110 which is pretty similar, did you have to remove the instrument panel to get at the ignition switch, I have one on order and need to put it in, thanks.
Yes,the instrument panel needs to be removed. Its easy to remove. Not exactly sure about a 2110.
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I think those old Furd 1720's, 3415's, etc were Japo tractors. In fact I think Kubota made the transmissions for some of the old Furds like the 3930/4630/etc. Furds went to crap when they became NH. I think Furd sold their tractor division off in either the late 80's or early 90's. Those old Furds were some workhorses.
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The Japanese Ford's were built by Shibaura. I bought a 1000 new in 1978. Still running, with 2000 HARD hours on it. Parts are very hard to find and when you do, they are not cheap. Unfortunately, the Ford is different enough from comparable Shibauras, that few parts interchange. I've used it enough to actually have worn holes through the bottom of the 770 attached loader bucket. I fabricated a new bucket and found a new cutting edge that came off a Cat grader. The 2 cylinder diesel puts out a very honest 25 HP, with tons of torque. Runs my 6 inch wood chipper great. Shibaura is now building small tractors for Case IH. (At least they were)
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The old Ford, sitting on the left. I cross my fingers, whenever ever I go to start it.
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