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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just picked up a forward lighting kit for my 1023.. The install looks pretty straight forward.. Famous last words though eh?!.. If anyone else has installed one on their 1 series, are there any do's and dont's that you discovered?..
 

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DO follow the directions

DON'T take any shortcuts

DO order a set of Artillian horse blinders.
DO enjoy your new well lit environment. :thumbup1gif:
 

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I agree about getting the Artillian horse blinders.
 

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Yep, "Horse Blinders", the best money you can spend if you plan on lighting those new lights "at night".:laugh: One head turn with the work lights on ("YIKES!") was all it took for me!
 

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Yep, "Horse Blinders", the best money you can spend if you plan on lighting those new lights "at night".:laugh: One head turn with the work lights on ("YIKES!") was all it took for me!
Havent installed mine yet, but how to they handle highway speeds on a open trailer?? Thats my biggest concern about them..
 

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Havent installed mine yet, but how to they handle highway speeds on a open trailer?? Thats my biggest concern about them..
In my experience, they do just fine on an open trailer at highway speeds. No problems!!!
 

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Havent installed mine yet, but how to they handle highway speeds on a open trailer?? Thats my biggest concern about them..
I don't know from trailering, but the blinders AIN'T CHEESY material! Hey, I've tried my best to knock the left one off plenty of times with my elbow twirling the seat into the BH position. They flex and don't crease. Stay under 120mph with that rig and you should be fine.:laugh:
 

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I don't know from trailering, but the blinders AIN'T CHEESY material! Hey, I've tried my best to knock the left one off plenty of times with my elbow twirling the seat into the BH position. They flex and don't crease. Stay under 120mph with that rig and you should be fine.:laugh:
And if that weren't enough, I noticed this in the Horse Blinder section of the Artillian site:

New! ENHANCED BLINDER SHAPE and THICKER MATERIAL!

So they are now even more durable.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Having a problem guys.. Wonder if you can help.. The wires coming off the lights themselves are one purple male end and one black female end.. The instructions say to simply plug purple into purple and black into black.. But there is no purple wire on the tractor harness.. Also..The kit came with two separate harnesses in addition to the simple harness that connects directly to the lights.. Both have two purple male connectors and two black female connectors at one end and one purple male connector and one black female connector at the other end.. Are these harnesses supposed to be involved at all or are they for a rear light if you added one down the rd.. Anyway.. I know its tough to help with nothing more to go one than a description like mine.. But if you've added these lights before.. Can you post the exact steps?.. What wire goes where?.. I called the dealer and he was no help.. It was 10 mins till closing so he wasn't really interested.. I'll go see the dealer to figure it out next week if not.. Just figured I'd ask so I can maybe finish with this thing tomorrow.. Thanks for any help!..
 

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Having a problem guys.. Wonder if you can help..
What color wires do you have available at the rear of the tractor? If I recall, the only harness connections back there are for the work lights. So if you have no purple, what colors are in the tractor pigtail? If you have black and something that is probably the correct wires. You could always verify with a volt meter.

Yes, the extra "Y" harness that you get with the kit is for the rear work light.
 

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And if that weren't enough, I noticed this in the Horse Blinder section of the Artillian site:

New! ENHANCED BLINDER SHAPE and THICKER MATERIAL!

So they are now even more durable.
OMG! (as they say in the street) Glad I got the old "wimpy ones" or my arm wouldn't have any skin left on it!:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ok.. So long story short, I can't just plug these things in right?.. I'm gonna have to cut or splice or run a new line to the switch or something based on the other threads.. Thanks for posting the links by the way.. Can't believe JD couldn't see that this would be a more popular mod for the 23 than the 25 and 26 since they already have additional lighting.. They absolutely should have made it plug and play on the 23.. I don't know jack about wiring and don't want to mess with my warranty.. I think I'm gonna have to let the dealer install them.. Unless I'm missing something and it's really that easy.. If any one can provide the step 1-2-3 for dummy's I might give it a try.. No worries if no one can.. You've all been a great help so far already.. As usual!..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
wouldn't have thought this would be such a hassle when I started (ha!).. I went into my dealer yesterday and the guy stood there scratching his head looking at the instructions.. Just like me!!.. Anyway, he went in to the back to talk to a tech.. The tech said, feel around up inside the bottom of the rops.. The wires are for sure tucked away in there.. Told him no way, there's nothing else there.. Went home and checked anyway.. Nope.. Nothing there.. Don't know what the solution is going to be yet.. Gonna drive out to another dealer.. This place is further away but its a massive very high volume store so I hope they have some techs that can trouble shoot this for me and give me the magic bullet.. If not, I'll just take the machine in and have it done.. I'm sure I could tinker my way to doing it myself, but cutting, splicing or whatever can't be good for the warranty..
 

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Ok.. So long story short, I can't just plug these things in right?.. I'm gonna have to cut or splice or run a new line to the switch or something based on the other threads.. Thanks for posting the links by the way.. Can't believe JD couldn't see that this would be a more popular mod for the 23 than the 25 and 26 since they already have additional lighting.. They absolutely should have made it plug and play on the 23.. I don't know jack about wiring and don't want to mess with my warranty.. I think I'm gonna have to let the dealer install them.. Unless I'm missing something and it's really that easy.. If any one can provide the step 1-2-3 for dummy's I might give it a try.. No worries if no one can.. You've all been a great help so far already.. As usual!..
running a new circuit for additional lights is very simple. a step 1-2-3 for you

1- run new wire from starter positive post (where positive battery cable connects) to a new fuse

2- run wire from the new fuse to a new toggle switch

3- run wire from toggle switch to each new light

4- ground the other wire of the light
 

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Golf, I added a rear work light to my 1023E not too long before I traded it in. I have a solution for you, which I believe was posted here.

This will require some dis-assembly of some very easy to remove parts of your tractor, but it will be worth it if you want to save some $.

1) Remove left side front panel of tractor by simply removing the nut and bolt at the top rear of the panel, then the panel just slides back and off it comes.

2) Remove the lower panel under the dash (right between your feet when on the seat). This will have I think 4 screws.

3) Remove both floor boards by unscrewing the 4 bolts in each.

4) Remove the panel just at your heels when sitting in the seat (again 2 to 4 screws).

5) Now that you have thoroughly turned your tractor into a pile of green and black parts, you can start the wiring job, which is fairly simple.

6) Remove the light switch by un-threading the jam nut on the back of the switch, then pulling the knob straight up and off. The switch will come out the back of the dash, and can be returned to the correct position by realigning the lobe with the "dowel" (you'll understand once you pull it out).

7) Look at the back of the switch. There will be 4 or 5 places where the wires connect via a blade connector. If you have a multimeter, ring out the two empty slots, or make yourself a rudimentary tester by just grounding on of the black wires on your new lights to the frame of the tractor, then plug the purple wire into the slots, and start turning the switch. If memory serves me well, It will be the second to last slot (counterclockwise from the left most slot occupied by wires) that will be the "utility light" slot. Remember, the bullet connectors on your new lights will be worthless because the tractor is not pre-wired for these utility lights, so you may as well get yourself some crimp connectors, an assortment of blade connectors (to hook to the switch), and some shrink tubing to make the connections water proof. Assortment kits of crimp connectors can be found at your local hardware store, wallymart, or Radio Shack. Also pick up some wire ties to secure the power wire to the factory wire run in the next step.

8) Run a power wire from the back of the tractor and up the ROPS, following the path that the factory used, to the switch. That's why the dis-assembly was required.

9) Run a ground wire to a good solid location below the ROPS, most likely to a bolt connection to the frame utilizing one of the above mentioned connectors from the assortment pack.

10) Run your second power and ground wire (daisy chained from the first set ran) to the other light behind and up the ROPS.

11) Attach and connect your lights.

12) Connect to the switch via blade connector.

13) Test all connections and lights before you reassemble the tractor.

14) Put that baby back together and get working into the dusk and beyond! :greentractorride:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Great info and great instructions guys!.. I was all set to move forward using your methods which no doubt would have got it done when I decided to head into that other large deere dealer I mentioned earlier.. I just couldn't believe that this is something that deere had left out on a machine that costs this much money and thought there has just got to be a factory solution.. Sure enough.. The service manager at this store feeling the same as me about the whole thing. Could not square himself with the idea that there was no factory way to do this.. So he called deere and in 5 mins had the part number for the harness I need and ordered it for me.. It was a measly $24 for the harness.. Insane that they wouldn't just include it on the tractor.. $24 retail has got to be just penny's at the factory.. Anyway.. Its done and damn the lights are bright!.. Gonna have to order the horse blinders for sure, but they light the way beautifully!..



 

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Great info and great instructions guys!.. I was all set to move forward using your methods which no doubt would have got it done when I decided to head into that other large deere dealer I mentioned earlier.. I just couldn't believe that this is something that deere had left out on a machine that costs this much money and thought there has just got to be a factory solution.. Sure enough.. The service manager at this store feeling the same as me about the whole thing. Could not square himself with the idea that there was no factory way to do this.. So he called deere and in 5 mins had the part number for the harness I need and ordered it for me.. It was a measly $24 for the harness.. Insane that they wouldn't just include it on the tractor.. $24 retail has got to be just penny's at the factory.. Anyway.. Its done and damn the lights are bright!.. Gonna have to order the horse blinders for sure, but they light the way beautifully!..
Wow very cool! Sharing the part number for this magic $24 harness will help many others ;) Can you please share it?
 

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Yep, "Horse Blinders", the best money you can spend if you plan on lighting those new lights "at night".:laugh: One head turn with the work lights on ("YIKES!") was all it took for me!
I agree. The blinder were the best and cheapest mod I done to my tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Wow very cool! Sharing the part number for this magic $24 harness will help many others ;) Can you please share it?
Good call Kenny.. I should have done that.. Ok the part number that you need (1023E ONLY) is LVU22999.. That is the part number of the wiring harness that you need to run the forward lighting kit.. So you'll need to order the kit itself, the guards that mount to the rops that you mount the lights on plus this wiring harness.. An installation tip.. The instructions that come with the harness suggest that you run the harness under the tractor.. I chose to remove the floor board (took 5 extra mins) and I ran the harness on top of the floor right along the main wiring harness that runs from the dash to the back of the tractor.. This harness is skinny and buddies right up to it, attach a few of the black zip ties that come with the kit and its very neat and tidy.. Takes a little playing around to properly route the ends that go to each side of the tractor out back but no big deal.. I wanted everything to be neat, tidy and proper so I was very fussy with how I routed the wires.. To look at it now you'd never know it didn't didn't come from the factory this way..
 
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