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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today my forward pedal broke. I called JD service. I am attaching a picture but I cannot find anything that might help me decide should I try to fix it. A little concerned on that process taking too long but they have always done the best they can . I just would like a video or guidance on trying myself. aplayeru
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That should probably be a warranty fix by the dealer. But if you don't want to wait for them or deal transporting. You can buy it from green part store.

John Deere Forward Pedal - LVU31120
 

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If it is under warranty, let the dealer do it or at least supply the part. If you have the tools, it is not that hard. Have you looked underneath where the pedal broke?
 
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That should probably be a warranty fix by the dealer. But if you don't want to wait for them or deal transporting. You can buy it from green part store.

John Deere Forward Pedal - LVU31120
One of my fears would be the dealer telling me that I need to bring the tractor in for a warranty fix or they'll have to charge me pickup and delivery fees. They specifically mentioned that I should buy the extended warranty since Deere picks up the tab for the delivery for warranty work.
 
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It's not a difficult repair if you have basic tools and repair skills. Look up under the tractor and you can see what its going to require to repair. The pedal is about $40 and you should be able to get it replaced in half and hour or less. I do think that is the first broken pedal arm I have seen here on GTT. Did you get something wedged in the pedals like a stick or something? Just take pictures of the assembly before you take it apart so you can put it back together in the
same order. Gives a whole new meaning to "mashing the pedal".............I would be surprised if the dealer has the pedal in stock as we don't see them requiring replacement often (or at all, until this one.....)

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Font Auto part Diagram Engineering Event
 

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OP,
What were you doing when you broke the pedal??? Was it one of those circus things where they bring out an elephant and it drives the tractor??
 

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OP,
What were you doing when you broke the pedal??? Was it one of those circus things where they bring out an elephant and it drives the tractor??
My dealer, which has an excellent inventory of parts for these machines, doesn't stock the pedals and they have to be ordered. The last time I ordered basic parts which had to come from Deere, it took over 4 weeks. Hope that is not the case with this pedal................
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What'd you do, stomp on that thing like you were Brandon Brown at Talladega? :cool:

Is it cast aluminum?
No I consider myself hopefully easy as you go. This is my second one and had no such problems with it. I have already broken the joystick and now this, both cast aluminum. Either my operating ablility is getting worse or something has changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's not a difficult repair if you have basic tools and repair skills. Look up under the tractor and you can see what its going to require to repair. The pedal is about $40 and you should be able to get it replaced in half and hour or less. I do think that is the first broken pedal arm I have seen here on GTT. Did you get something wedged in the pedals like a stick or something? Just take pictures of the assembly before you take it apart so you can put it back together in the
same order. Gives a whole new meaning to "mashing the pedal".............I would be surprised if the dealer has the pedal in stock as we don't see them requiring replacement often (or at all, until this one.....)

. View attachment 814260
See my response to Dixie 460...I will add that the service manager said they have designed the arm to break in certain stress situations along the lines of a shear pin.i.e. something wedged that I did not notice until the arm fell off. I was pushing and lift a pile or tree top left overs. I will take the picture as you suggest. That is a very good suggestion. I may have to follow up when I get the picture but got to get it moved first. Thanks I really appreciate the responses I have received.
 

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I do recall someone else with this issue. It would likely be far easier to replace from the top side. It is fairly simple to remove the floor board, which should provide relatively easy access to it.
 
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My dealer, which has an excellent inventory of parts for these machines, doesn't stock the pedals and they have to be ordered. The last time I ordered basic parts which had to come from Deere, it took over 4 weeks. Hope that is not the case with this pedal................
Order "Tractor down"
Maybe Mother Deere didn't have the part or find another dealer. My dealer gets part 3 time a week.
 
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That looks like it broke at the meatiest part of the casting, I don't see that being a built-in failure point. It's probably a defective part that failed after enough usage cycles. For $40 I'd fix it myself - the dealer will probably charge you 2x that each way for the trip to the shop, and then you are at their mercy for when they will fix it and get it back to you.
 

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Built in point of failure?? That's crapola and that SM needs a kick in the ass.
 
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Built in point of failure?? That's crapola and that SM needs a kick in the ass.
Exactly! Next they'll be trying to say the engine is designed to throw a rod to protect the drive line.
 

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Exactly! Next they'll be trying to say the engine is designed to throw a rod to protect the drive line.
Don't be ridicolous, the engine valve train comes apart first and ingests cover metal into the engine to protect the air cleaner bracket................
 

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I was pushing and lift a pile or tree top left overs.
With these smaller machines, you have to be very careful running over ANY debris because with the low ground clearance so many bad things can (and do ) happen. Low ground clearance, lots of operational critical components not to mention filter housings, oil pans, pedals, hydraulic lines and hoses and of course spinning drive shafts don't mix well with items wedged into them.

When I am pushing something with the buckets or fork, the moment something get under the bucket or forks or past them, I stop, back up, realign the push point and start over. Better safe than sorry..........

The service manager is full of something and its not Thanksgiving Turkey (yet) because exactly what is the broken pedal "protecting" by acting as a shear pin? And the broken point isn't the weakest part, its the part where the leverage of the wedged stick, limb, branch, tree top, space shuttle part or conestoga wagon wheel was wedged into the pedals and basic leverage snapped it..........And it sure helped strand the machine, which could really be a problem in many situations. So I would discount the "pedal snapping at the weakest point" story and SM theory as "something to say when they don't know the correct answer"..........

I haven't tried it on the 1 series, but on many of the older machines, you could LIFT the reverse pedal and it would actually move the tractor FORWARD. That was based upon how the base of the pedals pivoted in the mounting bracket. Its worth a try on these machines to see if at least, you can move the machine that way. Tie a small rope or something around the top of the reverse pedal and see if you can "LIFT" it towards you and if the machine moves forward. Worth a shot...........
 

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With these smaller machines, you have to be very careful running over ANY debris because with the low ground clearance so many bad things can (and do ) happen. Low ground clearance, lots of operational critical components not to mention filter housings, oil pans, pedals, hydraulic lines and hoses and of course spinning drive shafts don't mix well with items wedged into them.
Yep... these aren't skidders.
 

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I had one break on my 1025 last year..Best way to replace it is take off the floor and go in from the top..It can be done from the bottom but I like room to work and don’t get in hurry with things


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