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Discussion Starter #1
Hello again, all. I am going to mount some 55w halogen lights on the ROPS of my 1023 to serve as extra lighting while moving snow with the FEL (mostly to help with loader blocking headlights). Anyone have any pictures (or advice) on where to put them to provide the best lighting angle? I was planning to put one on each upright. And, yes, they do swivel up and down. Thanks in advance for your help again.
 

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I'll have to take a pic but I bought two 2" square U-bolts at NAPA and used them to mount a piece of angle-aluminum hanging from the ROPS top crossbeam. I mounted my forward lights on that as well as an amber flashing light (required by law here in MA when plowing...).

Everything is overhead so they don't blind me when I look to the sides or to the rear and they are inside the ROPS so everything still fits into the garage with the ROPS up and I really don't have to worry about tearing them off on branches, etc...
 
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I mounted mine about eight inches or so down from the top of the ROPS on the outside of the tube using 5/16" bolts threaded directly into the ROPS tube. I used 1/2' cpvc for conduit and heated it with a heat gun to match the bends in the ROPS. I ran mine on the inside to protect it more from tree branches etc. and attached it with self tapping screws and painted it to match.
 

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There are many threads on this if you do some searching, most guys are using LED's now though rather than 50w halogen lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I searched, I got a bunch of threads with multiple pages. Didn't want to sift through as most of them get off topic after the 1st or 2nd page. Second question, I plan to drill a 1/4" hole through the ROPS to mount the lights. This won't compromise the stability of the ROPS, will it? I assume not since hazard lights are mounted in the same fashion with bigger holes
 

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Second question, I plan to drill a 1/4" hole through the ROPS to mount the lights. This won't compromise the stability of the ROPS, will it? I assume not since hazard lights are mounted in the same fashion with bigger holes
Whether it will or not is entirely unknown. It would depend on number, size and location. That said, there are warning labels all over the ROPS telling you NOT to drill ANY holes in it. That's the reason I mounted mine the way I did - no holes in the ROPS.

I'm not convinced that the factory holes used for mounting the factory lights is an apt comparison. The ROPS was designed & tested with those holes there. Obviously people DO drill holes in their ROPS and I'd guess most never run into any problems. It's all a matter of what risks you're willing to accept.
 
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I asked this same question to a friend of mine that is a Registered Mechanical Engineer. He said that as long as you tap and use a threaded fastener you should not affect the structural strength. If you would drill and not fill the hole you may but the size of the hole or holes are the determining factor.
 
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If that's true, I have all kinds of things I could have drilled and tapped over the years. I need to ask my nephew who is our mechanical engineer.
 

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Work lights

I have four 1200 lumen LED lights which only draw about 72 watts / 6 amps. TOTAL!
These give a much better spread of light over a halogen bulb at close range around tractor.
Two are mounted on a piece of plated box tube along with my dual rotator.
Two are mounted on the "L" brackets holding the box tube.
I drilled & tapped four holes in the rops, NOT a structural issue!
Tested while blowing snow, I am very pleased.
20141017_150725.jpg
20141017_150705.jpg
 

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Definitely go with LED's and not Halogens! Here's where I mounted mine on the brackets holding the factory lighting:

 

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LEDs ALL THE WAY!!!

Low draw, tough as nails, and now fairly affordable.

www.mobilehid.com
www.superbrightleds.com
eBay

If you need a beacon -

speedtechlighting.com

Keep the lights inside the ROPS.

Lots of people - certainly not me.... - have drilled their ROPS. Its a warranty voiding, lawyer supporting, issue.

-J.


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Inadvertently moved my picture above. Here it is:

 

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He said that as long as you tap and use a threaded fastener you should not affect the structural strength.
This does not sound right. Using a threaded fastener vs. a through bolt will solve the problem of distorting the tubing in case of over tightening (maybe that's what he meant) but I do not see how it would affect structural strength any less than a regular hole with a bolt in it.

Common sense says that a single 1/4" hole on either side will not compromise safety. More holes, or bigger holes might concern me. The warning stickers are there, because if they weren't, you know some people would be drilling holes all over the place - and that could cause a safety issue.

If I was really motivated I could run a stress simulation in SolidWorks just to quantify the differences... I doubt that will happen though.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Here is what I ended up doing. The lights are just 55w halogen boat docking lights from Rural King. I haven't got to try them in total darkness but they seem to do what I want. For under $25, I decided to try this way first.
 

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Your dealer will have them, or they're available on Green Farm Parts.

I don't have the part number handy, but they're known as a steering wheel spinner. :good2:
I just put a JD spinner on my 1025R... Huge difference in maneuvering and pushing around the snow piles in the driveway.


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