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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 955 is up there in hours, and has been more and more frequently having a no response to getting the starter to start. Inspection revealed that both #10 bolts had fallen off the engine block that hold the lower exhaust pipe bracket, allowing the pipe to start melting and shorting its way through the main battery cable to the starter. I have replaced the battery cable, but the zero response to turning the ignition key persists. Two questions: would this direct short of the battery to earth/ground be the time to replace the battery? And the circuit diagram shows a "fusible link" in the ignition circuit ...any idea as to its location on the 955? I have noticed that many connections have simply gone south over time and need cleaning, etc to work again.
Any suggestions on chasing down the starter circuit disconnect problem would be welcomed. I sure would like to get the tractor moved from where it is; it's pretty inaccessible!
 

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I'm not sure on your tractor, but fusible links (which rarely give problems) feeds the main electrical system usually located on the starter main lug or nearby. Usually a fusible link can be identified by a section of wire in shrink-wrap.

How handy are you with a meter?

How old is the battery? When it does start, does it turn over at normal speed or slow?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Make believe power

Getting confused now: absolutely no power anywhere now. I have even used jumper cables to bypass the ground side of the battery. Tried another battery, nothing. Shows power to the starter on my meter, but the ignition switch does zero. Ignition switch show voltage too, but I wonder if there is any real current there...I have seen this on the 70 Lotus: it showed 12 volts on the meter at the radiator fan but it was not passing enough current to light a automotive bulb.

I have cleaned up both battery posts and cables, been charging both batteries as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update

Re=conditioned the starter...cleaned up the copper solenoid connectors, re-packed the grease on the gear drive, dremeled the rotor armature. Kept re-charging the batterie(s). Put it all back together and it was back to normal. I also disconnected the ignition switch pin connectors and cleaned them with the dremel and electric connector spray. Apparently bad connections rule in the old age tractors! Still have little idea why there was a zero power period to the ignition and "dashboard"...
 

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You may have some corroded battery cables too. A lot of older wires will corrode under the insulation near a terminal so you can't see it, but the wire becomes very ineffective at conducting current. Sometimes just jostling the wires around can break up enough corrosion to allow things to work only to have the problem pop right back up again shortly.
 

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You may have some corroded battery cables too. A lot of older wires will corrode under the insulation near a terminal so you can't see it, but the wire becomes very ineffective at conducting current. Sometimes just jostling the wires around can break up enough corrosion to allow things to work only to have the problem pop right back up again shortly.
very true and an intermittent electrical problem can be a real headache to troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Finding the elusive vague connection

OKay: new positive battery cable, new battery, re-built the solenoid: After all this things ran great for three days...started like a champ...now we have the return of the zero-response to turning the ignition key....
Main display all lights up, the glow plug heaters warm and then shut off....then you turn the switch to crank and absolutely nothing happens: no click, no dimming of lights, nothing. Lights all work, along with the fuel gauge...just can't interest the starter in responding.
Any thoughts?
Going through the Repair manual again for testing the start circuit(s). I daresay that there is a poor connection somewhere in the circuit...just haven't found it yet. I have jumpered the negative and positive side from the battery to try and identify a culprit week connection...no such luck.

George
 

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Is the starter solenoid getting 12v when the ignition switch is turned to the start position? If not, check your ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update on electrical problem

I traced the poor connection to the purple ignition wire that goes from the ignition switch to the starter: it is the power that pulls the solenoid in to start the starter. The only way I was able to find this was to jumper that wire from the ignition to the starter. So, having isolated the problem to that circuit, I assumed I had a bad microswitch at the shift linkage(this is the safety switch that prevents starting while "in gear" hydrostatically). So I ordered the switch and harness and OUCH! ($55) and started looking at how the hell I was going to even access this switch without a complete teardown of the midsection under the seat. But in a moment of inspiration/perspiration, I disconnected the switch harness connector to that switch. Cleaned up the connection and the start circuit works fine now... what made me think of this was my 1970 Lotus which had another similar electrical problem: the connection passes low voltage, making you think the circuit is good, but couldn't light a bulb let alone run the radiator fan.
SO the moral of this story is the vintage equipment blues: all old electrical connections are suspect and probably need to be cleaned and checked to ensure that they are really working. I have had success with a can of electrical connection cleaner spray. I am thinking about making a cigar lighter circuit tester for heavier amperage circuit/connection testing as a voltmeter is not going to find faults like these.
 
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