hate to say this, but when i had my 2520 apart the first time, i replaced just that seal, and it leaked again soon. u better take the top part down, and look at them parts,, that is where the bronz spacer i can't remember the right word, but that wore into the shaft, which in turn left the seal go out.Hi all
Wondering if anyone else has had this problem, Or has any advise about it.
Not sure how much is going to be involved in replacing this seal, hoping someone else had gone through it.
Item 25 in the picture is my problem I believe.
Thanks for any advise in advance.
View attachment 572033
Ohhh please don't say shaft damage.hate to say this, but when i had my 2520 apart the first time, i replaced just that seal, and it leaked again soon. u better take the top part down, and look at them parts,, that is where the bronz spacer i can't remember the right word, but that wore into the shaft, which in turn left the seal go out.
i have a thread on here about it. pics show what i'm trying to say-ok.
i see ur tractor is 4 yrs old. are u running with rear ballast anytime the loader is on? i blame mine on not having enough rear ballast, and when the hydraulics picked the one side of tractor off the ground a lot, it (that bronz piece) wore thru and damaged the shaft. good luck-ok.:munch:
:dunno:i don't have my paperwork right here now. but it really wasn't that bad. the shaft would be the worst.Ohhh please don't say shaft damage.
How much$ did that set you back in parts?
I always have my ballast box on, or snow blower.
Ok thanks so much for the advice.:dunno:i don't have my paperwork right here now. but it really wasn't that bad. the shaft would be the worst.
i upgraded both sides from the older version to the newer style jd put in the 2720's in 08. now that was somewhere around 2 grand, but afterwards that, i had a larger ballast box made. plus fluid in the tires. jd has wonderful hyd. pumps on these little tractors, one reason i bought what i did back then. but time after time lifting the rear tire off the ground did mine in i think:dunno:
ur noot gonna know really what u need till u get it apart. but make sure u drop the top piece off too. that is what was knocking my seal out.
IMO, It's a tractor thing. They run Low Vis Hydraulic in the rear axle because they use the diff as the sump for the hydraulics and to stay consistent, they run low vis in the front axle also.I have not seen it mentioned yet,,,, but,,,,
when is someone going to step up to the bar,,, and dump 140WT gear oil in the front axle?
We did this in the 1950's with an AC HD10 bulldozer,,
the 90WT would run out,, but, the 140WT stayed put,,,
after about 5 years, we had to pump some grease in with the 140WT,, as it got worse,,
but, that was better than leaking.
I can not see where it would be a problem running gears in gear oil,,, :dunno:
My 1980 Troy Bilt Horse tiller called for 140WT,, :flag_of_truce:
I am positive those gears ran faster than these axles.
Thanks for the reply.Hi Leney,
I started the other thread. Same spot yours is leaking from it looks like. Check out my post. http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/153249-front-axle-spindle-leak-1026r.html Some where in one of the links some one was nice enough to post some parts of the technical manual procedure.
Ive noticed a pressure build up in my front axle when I remove the dip stick. I blame ambient temp swings. The pressure buildup could be enough to make a semi weak seal leak. I cleaned the spot off with break cleaner to get an idea how much was actually leaking out. But so far mine has stoped leaking for now. And I have used it snowblowing the last two blizzards we had here in 4wd and 2wd.
If its really starts pouring out then yeah I will repair it. An intermittent leak I'll just live with it. But thats just me.
Check out that other post. You should get a feel from the technical manual excerpts if this is something you want to tackle yourself. It didn't look too bad to me. Goodluck