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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all
Wondering if anyone else has had this problem, Or has any advise about it.
Not sure how much is going to be involved in replacing this seal, hoping someone else had gone through it.

Item 25 in the picture is my problem I believe.

Thanks for any advise in advance.

PU03536________UN17FEB11.jpg
 

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there is a recent thread here on GTT about this.... Last week(?). Anyway, Yup, it's a booger to do. Guess the over all opinion was ... if it's just dribbling, just leave it alone or attend to it if it gets really bad. Your choice. :banghead:
 

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Hi all
Wondering if anyone else has had this problem, Or has any advise about it.
Not sure how much is going to be involved in replacing this seal, hoping someone else had gone through it.

Item 25 in the picture is my problem I believe.

Thanks for any advise in advance.

View attachment 572033
hate to say this, but when i had my 2520 apart the first time, i replaced just that seal, and it leaked again soon. u better take the top part down, and look at them parts,, that is where the bronz spacer i can't remember the right word, but that wore into the shaft, which in turn left the seal go out.
i have a thread on here about it. pics show what i'm trying to say-ok.
i see ur tractor is 4 yrs old. are u running with rear ballast anytime the loader is on? i blame mine on not having enough rear ballast, and when the hydraulics picked the one side of tractor off the ground a lot, it (that bronz piece) wore thru and damaged the shaft. good luck-ok.:munch:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ah ha!

Thank You, I had found some similar threads for other tractors but not the 1 series.
I just did another search and found the thread you are talking about on a 1026.

You used the same booger term in that one as well.
Lol
Thank you.

It's defiantly more than just a drip, but I think I will clean it up really good and monitor.

If I end up tearing into it, I'll be sure to document.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hate to say this, but when i had my 2520 apart the first time, i replaced just that seal, and it leaked again soon. u better take the top part down, and look at them parts,, that is where the bronz spacer i can't remember the right word, but that wore into the shaft, which in turn left the seal go out.
i have a thread on here about it. pics show what i'm trying to say-ok.
i see ur tractor is 4 yrs old. are u running with rear ballast anytime the loader is on? i blame mine on not having enough rear ballast, and when the hydraulics picked the one side of tractor off the ground a lot, it (that bronz piece) wore thru and damaged the shaft. good luck-ok.:munch:
Ohhh please don't say shaft damage.
How much$ did that set you back in parts?

I always have my ballast box on, or snow blower.
 

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Ohhh please don't say shaft damage.
How much$ did that set you back in parts?

I always have my ballast box on, or snow blower.
:dunno:i don't have my paperwork right here now. but it really wasn't that bad. the shaft would be the worst.

i upgraded both sides from the older version to the newer style jd put in the 2720's in 08. now that was somewhere around 2 grand, but afterwards that, i had a larger ballast box made. plus fluid in the tires. jd has wonderful hyd. pumps on these little tractors, one reason i bought what i did back then. but time after time lifting the rear tire off the ground did mine in i think:dunno:

ur noot gonna know really what u need till u get it apart. but make sure u drop the top piece off too. that is what was knocking my seal out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:dunno:i don't have my paperwork right here now. but it really wasn't that bad. the shaft would be the worst.

i upgraded both sides from the older version to the newer style jd put in the 2720's in 08. now that was somewhere around 2 grand, but afterwards that, i had a larger ballast box made. plus fluid in the tires. jd has wonderful hyd. pumps on these little tractors, one reason i bought what i did back then. but time after time lifting the rear tire off the ground did mine in i think:dunno:

ur noot gonna know really what u need till u get it apart. but make sure u drop the top piece off too. that is what was knocking my seal out.
Ok thanks so much for the advice.

I only have 230hr on the clock... so this is a bit of a surprise, I defiantly use it hard, but I never lift the rear end off the ground.
 

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Hi Leney,

I started the other thread. Same spot yours is leaking from it looks like. Check out my post. http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/153249-front-axle-spindle-leak-1026r.html Some where in one of the links some one was nice enough to post some parts of the technical manual procedure.

Ive noticed a pressure build up in my front axle when I remove the dip stick. I blame ambient temp swings. The pressure buildup could be enough to make a semi weak seal leak. I cleaned the spot off with break cleaner to get an idea how much was actually leaking out. But so far mine has stoped leaking for now. And I have used it snowblowing the last two blizzards we had here in 4wd and 2wd.

If its really starts pouring out then yeah I will repair it. An intermittent leak I'll just live with it. But thats just me.

Check out that other post. You should get a feel from the technical manual excerpts if this is something you want to tackle yourself. It didn't look too bad to me. Goodluck
 

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I have not seen it mentioned yet,,,, but,,,,
when is someone going to step up to the bar,,, and dump 140WT gear oil in the front axle?

We did this in the 1950's with an AC HD10 bulldozer,,
the 90WT would run out,, but, the 140WT stayed put,,,
after about 5 years, we had to pump some grease in with the 140WT,, as it got worse,,
but, that was better than leaking.

I can not see where it would be a problem running gears in gear oil,,, :dunno:

My 1980 Troy Bilt Horse tiller called for 140WT,, :flag_of_truce:
I am positive those gears ran faster than these axles.
 

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I have not seen it mentioned yet,,,, but,,,,
when is someone going to step up to the bar,,, and dump 140WT gear oil in the front axle?

We did this in the 1950's with an AC HD10 bulldozer,,
the 90WT would run out,, but, the 140WT stayed put,,,
after about 5 years, we had to pump some grease in with the 140WT,, as it got worse,,
but, that was better than leaking.

I can not see where it would be a problem running gears in gear oil,,, :dunno:

My 1980 Troy Bilt Horse tiller called for 140WT,, :flag_of_truce:
I am positive those gears ran faster than these axles.
IMO, It's a tractor thing. They run Low Vis Hydraulic in the rear axle because they use the diff as the sump for the hydraulics and to stay consistent, they run low vis in the front axle also.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Leney,

I started the other thread. Same spot yours is leaking from it looks like. Check out my post. http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/153249-front-axle-spindle-leak-1026r.html Some where in one of the links some one was nice enough to post some parts of the technical manual procedure.

Ive noticed a pressure build up in my front axle when I remove the dip stick. I blame ambient temp swings. The pressure buildup could be enough to make a semi weak seal leak. I cleaned the spot off with break cleaner to get an idea how much was actually leaking out. But so far mine has stoped leaking for now. And I have used it snowblowing the last two blizzards we had here in 4wd and 2wd.

If its really starts pouring out then yeah I will repair it. An intermittent leak I'll just live with it. But thats just me.

Check out that other post. You should get a feel from the technical manual excerpts if this is something you want to tackle yourself. It didn't look too bad to me. Goodluck
Thanks for the reply.
I went out and hosed it down with brake cleaner last night, so I'll run it today and see what happens.

I'm not shy to tear into any project, so if it needs to be done I will be all over it.
I'm just afraid of the above mentioned, shaft damage.

Does it make a difference running in 2wd vs 4wd?
I typically never take the tractor put of 4x4 unless I'm mowing.
 

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Thoughts on heavy oil

My guess is running in 4wd warms up the front axel a little due to friction. Maybe this causes a pressure build up? Or maybe its from the oil off gassing when warm. On a slightly worn seal its enough to push some oil out? Where as a new seal can resist this force. Honestly not sure. I do think its weird there is no breather on the axel tho. Im just guessing here.

I did put heavy 00 oil/grease in my brush hog due to seal wear. Regular gear oil would drip out. At room temp 00 is grease. At a little bit warmer temp it melts into an oil. That being said its a beat to hell $200 brush hog. If it blows apart Im just going to leave it in the woods to rust away. What is a 1 series front axel assembly cost? 2k Im realy not sure?

140w gear oil might work tho. Same concept but Please don't try 00 grease in your front axel! I have seen it (heavier oil like 140w) done on older equipment succesfully. Not sure about increased wear or seal/oil compatability on our 1 series. With us this practice was a band aid on construction equipment that was so used and abused that one major parts break down would mean the auction or scrap yard due to cost effectiveness.

Not knocking any of these "fixes". They could work just fine. Plus these machines typicaly are not used commercialy. So one of these fixes might last the life of the machine.

How much to swap the seal? DIY or pay a dealer? Is it the seal or really a worn shaft/bearing? How long do you intend to keep tractor? Non factory specified fluids and possible wear or other complications. All sorts of things to consider to make the best choice for you.

I hope yours quits dripping but definitely take some good pics if you do open her up.
 
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