[glc]

Hey all
I'm thinking of putting front fenders on my 2520. Not the stationary kind either that the 3000 series uses.
I want these to pivot with the wheels,that way they are able to hug the tire and hopefully not interfere with anything.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to use a metal utility trailer fender. I thought of plastic,but IMO, they are too bulky looking.

I have a question: Is the steering arm (#1) a weldable steel? I would rather weld to it,but if I have to,I'll drill and tap it.
I think this project is involved enough where I will need to purchase the service manual,being that the front hubs will have to
come apart.

Greg

 

[Kennyd]

I suspect with the shape of that part, it's cast-so drilling and tapping would be the best option IMO.

The FSM purchase is also wise:thumbup1gif:

 

[Artillian]

That appears to be a casting. Are you familiar with welding on castings?

 

[glc]

That appears to be a casting. Are you familiar with welding on castings?

No,I'm not.:unknown:
If it's not too difficult,I would rather weld a block of steel to the arm and drill and tap it,instead of tapping the casting itself.
I just don't want to take a chance weakening it though.
I take it there is a big difference welding cast iron and cast steel.
If the piece is cast steel is it welded under normal conditions,and could it be MIG or TIG welded??

Greg

 

[Artillian]

The first problem is not knowing what the material it is. That will have an effect on the welding procedure but in any case, you could expect a controlled preheat and a controlled cool down. I doubt this would be an application for MIG. But these are just generalizations.

If it were me I think I'd be looking for a mechanical approach to this, but I sure wouldn't want to discourage you from trying! If you ask your local parts manager, he/she might be able to get you the material spec and condition from JD. That would be a good start.

I don't know if this is applicable to your idea, but you might also be able to consider brazing the block in place as an alternative.

 

[tackit]

I wouldn't heat the part it could cause an explosion or ruin the bearings and seals....... if I'm looking at the parts breakdown diagram correctly I would try to use the steering arm casting's mounting bolts and not worry if the fenders follow.

 

[glc]

If you ask your local parts manager, he/she might be able to get you the material spec and condition from JD. That would be a good start.

Thanks Ensoll.
I think this is a good idea. I will try to find out what the material spec is.
From your response,I take it for welding, TIG would be the only option?

I wouldn't heat the part it could cause an explosion or ruin the bearings and seals....... if I'm looking at the parts breakdown diagram correctly I would try to use the steering arm casting's mounting bolts and not worry if the fenders follow.

tackit
If I was going to do anything to the arm,I am disassembling it.
I didn't think about the arm mounting bolts because with the wheels in the narrow position (as mine are) you can't even see them. I'll have to give that idea consideration.
Maybe I'm being anal about it,but if I can't get the fenders to rotate,I'm not going to do it.

Greg




Greg

 

[tackit]

If your going to take the casting off perhaps you could drill and thread holes in the castings for the fender mounts since there would be no danger of drillings getting into the bearings and gear case.

 

[mjncad]

I suspect with the shape of that part, it's cast-so drilling and tapping would be the best option IMO.

The FSM purchase is also wise:thumbup1gif:

+1 on Kenny's advice, and I'll add the following. Can you afford to replace expensive parts if something goes wrong?

 

[Artillian]

Thanks Ensoll.
I think this is a good idea. I will try to find out what the material spec is.
From your response,I take it for welding, TIG would be the only option?

tackit
If I was going to do anything to the arm,I am disassembling it.

Greg

Without knowing what it is, I can't be of much more help on welding process. A good experienced weldor of castings might be able to test a few things and make an educated guess. I'm not one of them, unfortunately.

And yes, any reference to welding should assume the part is completely removed from the assembly and machine.

 

[Kennyd]

I am confused:unknown:

You want to build/attach fenders that turn with the front wheels-then why do you need to attach anything to that part? The fenders should attach to the rear of the hubs (#20 and #21) shouldn't they?

Here is a picture of the front fender kit for the X700 series tractor, this may give you an idea:

Here are two pictures of them on a large Kubota tractor:

Searching the name "Dunloflex-e" finds this page: http://www.henry-technologies.de/tractor-fenders.html Seems they have all kinds of sizes, but no reference to a US supplier.

 

[glc]

kennyd,thanks for digging up those pics and info.
I really didn't think about the hub because anything with a mounting bolt is really hidden by the wheel. I'll have to check the wheel in the wide position.
Initially,I didn't see anywhere to attach on the hub,but like I stated,the wheel is hiding it,so I didn't pay much mind to them. I will study this closer.
The more I think about it,fooling witht the arm should be my last resort. I picked those because they are the most accessible,but will involve the most work.:unknown:

Can you afford to replace expensive parts if something goes wrong?

I see your point mj,but I would not attempt fooling with the arms,if I wasn't 100% sure of what I was going to do.


Greg

 

[Kennyd]

No problem Greg, I got your back:lol:

 

[RandyM]

Hey Greg, keep us up to date on this. I am interested on what you come up with.

 

[glc]

Hey guys,here's an update.
Well,I'm still in the "figuring out" stage. I was able to check fit a couple different fenders,and so far,I am not a happy camper. What I had in mind of making is what I would call a 1/4 fender. So one trailer fender has plenty of area to produce two fenders,but the selection is very sparse. I figured on using a plain steel utility trailer type fender. I looked at the plastic ones,and personal taste,I don't care for them. My front tires are just about 8-1/4" wide,and I didn't want anything wider,but I wouldn't have a choice. The fender has to have a radius on both sides,and that is where the numbers to choose from really dwindle to just a few. Nine inches was as narrow as I was going to find with both sides radiused,and because of needing something to pretty much hug the tire,that is unacceptable. Another thing I didn't like was how flat across the width they are. I feel a crowned fender would look much better.

So,I started thinking along the lines of a motorcycle fender. Then I started really thinking! What the heck would I have to pay for one of those If I had to get it from one of the major builders.This project would most certainly be shelved. But I was wrong. In my Googling adventures,I come to find that there are plenty of places that carry off brand parts for retrofitting bikes! I found a decent 14 ga. steel fender that is 8" wide and still large enough to get 2 out of it,and it actually looks like a......well.......a fender!:yahooricewise it's not too shabby either! So, I'll be waiting on the UPS man in a few days,and hopefully get the ball rolling on this front fender project.

Any input from you guys is more than welcome.

Greg

 

[rgd]

:munch::munch::munch:

Looking forward too this Greg...had to subscribe to the thread by replying!

 

[Brian]

Subscribed

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[pcabe5]

Any thought of fabricating something like the x-series mount? This way it would turn and you would just use longer bolts.

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[glc]

Any thought of fabricating something like the x-series mount? This way it would turn and you would just use longer bolts.

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Hey pcabe5
I do want the fender to turn with the wheel,but I'm not sure what kind of bracket I'll be able to come up with because of the close clearance between the wheel and the spindle (hub).

Greg

 

[pcabe5]

Hey pcabe5
I do want the fender to turn with the wheel,but I'm not sure what kind of bracket I'll be able to come up with because of the close clearance between the wheel and the spindle (hub).

Greg

A wheel spacer could give some clearance but may not be a viable solution.

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