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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My snow configuration on my 1025R is to have the loader on the front with a 54“ blower on the rear. I have a gravel driveway so I keep the blower set pretty high and use the loader to scrape down to grade, or for the smaller snowfalls.

The issue I run into the that when pushing up the hill with the loader when I have snow blower lifted, if the edge digs in at all, the loader will fold up and the front wheels will come off the ground. This makes steering difficult. :) If I put the blower down, then I've lost a lot of weight on the wheels and traction becomes and issue (I do have chains on the rear).

I saw a pic on here of someone putting a few suitcase weights directly on the front part of the tractor frame. Not on a weight rack, but where the rack would mount. The loader cleared the weights in this configuration. This seemed like it might be a good solution to help keep the front wheels down.

So yesterday I mowed for the last time and today I switched everything over for snow. (70 degrees a few days ago, not sure it broke 40 today.) I put some weights on the front and they do clear the loader cross member, but they rest on the parking stand, especially it I fill it up with 5. 4 doesn't seem too bad. There also doesn't seem to be too much clearance behind the weights and the plastic below the grill.




So my question are:
- Should I be worried about the weights riding on the parking stand or hurting the plastic?
- If I shelled out the > $200 for the weight rack, will the loader still clear?
 

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I have a 2" trailer receiver on the front of my 1025R that I purchased from Heavy Hitch. They also sell a weight rack that goes into it and accommodates 8 weights. I know the receiver is compatible with the FEL installed, but I never had a reason to try and see if the weight rack would interfere with the FEL. But I'll bet Heavy Hitch knows. You might want to give them a call. Their solution could spare the paint on your parking stand and weights.
 

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I have a 2" trailer receiver on the front of my 1025R that I purchased from Heavy Hitch. They also sell a weight rack that goes into it and accommodates 8 weights. I know the receiver is compatible with the FEL installed, but I never had a reason to try and see if the weight rack would interfere with the FEL. But I'll bet Heavy Hitch knows. You might want to give them a call. Their solution could spare the paint on your parking stand and weights.
I have the same 2" receiver and the companion weight rack that fits into it. I can confirm that there is not near enough room for both the weight rack and the FEL.

I am also in need of more front end weight for plowing and continue to seek a solution. The weight must be applied to the tractor frame and not the loader arms or the plow.
 

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I do t think it's recommended to add weight to he front while loader is on. If the front is lifting it digging in to hard. Adding. Weight=added stress on loader & brackets. While these are amazing machines... We need to respect their limitations.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do t think it's recommended to add weight to he front while loader is on. If the front is lifting it digging in to hard. Adding. Weight=added stress on loader & brackets. While these are amazing machines... We need to respect their limitations.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I'm not lifting anything but a small amount of snow at the end of a push. I'm talking about pushing/scraping. The front wheels actually come off the ground.
 

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Do you have it in the float position? I normally pull it out of float& lift slightly before I get to the pile.

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To the first question I say no I will not hurt. The stand is not moving while loader is in operation. Can't answer the second.

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It is normal for the loader to pick the front wheels off the ground. No amount of additional front ballast will stop this. Especially if you don't put the loader in float when you drop the bucket/plow. I believe they call it down pressure.

Unfortunately the 1 series is missing what you need to take full advantage of the available down pressure.
Rear independent brakes. Just like the big boys have with dual brake pedals. Left pedal stops the left wheel and the right pedal stops the right wheel. Want to turn left then press the left pedal. That's how you would normally control/steer the front end/wheels.

I did about 18 hours of snow removal with the loader of a Kabota B21. Even with rear independent brakes it still was impossible to steer with the front wheels off of the ground. They stupidly put the brake pedals on the same side (right) as the trundle pedal. No way to operate them both at the same time. Not unless you have 2 right feet lol

I love everything about a 1 series except the single brake pedal.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Do you have it in the float position? I normally pull it out of float& lift slightly before I get to the pile.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Yeah, I either have it in float or with some slight down pressure. I'm trying to get down to the gravel. Anything I don't scrape off will turn to ice and be here until May.

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Discussion Starter #11
To the first question I say no I will not hurt. The stand is not moving while loader is in operation. Can't answer the second.

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Yeah, I was more wondering about the weight pushing down on the stand, and the torque transferred back up to the pivot. Then there is the paint loss. :)

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Discussion Starter #12

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Thanks, but that one appears to stick out further than the stock JD one, and I doubt it would clear the loader.

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The issue with the factory and most other front weight brackets is that they are too low to allow the clearance for the the loader. The design from JRS1959 has the weights up higher (few inches) which allows the clearance that is needed to for the loader to be utilized with the weights.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The issue with the factory and most other front weight brackets is that they are too low to allow the clearance for the the loader. The design from JRS1959 has the weights up higher (few inches) which allows the clearance that is needed to for the loader to be utilized with the weights.
Ah, I see your point now. Now I just need to learn how to weld.... :(
 

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I know you paid a lot for those suitcase weights but why not break out the Metabo with a cutoff wheel and 45 the inside corner for clearance...

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My first thought was you could find a flat slab style weight from a big tractor like these:
162_800.JPG
They are usually around 75 to 100 pounds. Not sure what those little weights weigh.

Then I thought, since you already have the weights and you just need a little height, why not get a piece of 3/16th plate steel taller than the plate you have them on now and bolt it on the front? Since that style suitcase would sit against a flat plate, you'd be able to get it off your park stand and move it 3/16ths farther away from your hood. I had a 2305, it had bolt holes already in that plate, if the 1025 is the same you could take the bolt hole pattern to a steel shop and they could shear it to size and punch the holes in pretty cheaply. I just guessed on the 3/16ths being enough, if it were mine I'd probably see what the max thickness the weight would accommodate and go with that, since the goal is to add weight. You might even get away with countersinking the bolts a little if you went thicker to keep them from interfering with the weights.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I know you paid a lot for those suitcase weights but why not break out the Metabo with a cutoff wheel and 45 the inside corner for clearance...

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That is an interesting idea... I'd really only have to do it for a couple of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My first thought was you could find a flat slab style weight from a big tractor like these:
They are usually around 75 to 100 pounds. Not sure what those little weights weigh.

Then I thought, since you already have the weights and you just need a little height, why not get a piece of 3/16th plate steel taller than the plate you have them on now and bolt it on the front? Since that style suitcase would sit against a flat plate, you'd be able to get it off your park stand and move it 3/16ths farther away from your hood. I had a 2305, it had bolt holes already in that plate, if the 1025 is the same you could take the bolt hole pattern to a steel shop and they could shear it to size and punch the holes in pretty cheaply. I just guessed on the 3/16ths being enough, if it were mine I'd probably see what the max thickness the weight would accommodate and go with that, since the goal is to add weight. You might even get away with countersinking the bolts a little if you went thicker to keep them from interfering with the weights.
The weights are 42lbs each. I'm guessing someone at JD was a Douglas Adams fan.

I'm considering something along these lines, the issue is that in the center, the grill comes forward so there isn't much vertical clearance. I actually had to put the weights on at the sides and slide them toward the middle.

It really seems like if they hadn't wanted to be able to sell add-on racks, this part of the tractor could have very easily been designed for just this use case.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It is normal for the loader to pick the front wheels off the ground. No amount of additional front ballast will stop this. Especially if you don't put the loader in float when you drop the bucket/plow. I believe they call it down pressure.

Unfortunately the 1 series is missing what you need to take full advantage of the available down pressure.
Rear independent brakes. Just like the big boys have with dual brake pedals. Left pedal stops the left wheel and the right pedal stops the right wheel. Want to turn left then press the left pedal. That's how you would normally control/steer the front end/wheels.

I did about 18 hours of snow removal with the loader of a Kabota B21. Even with rear independent brakes it still was impossible to steer with the front wheels off of the ground. They stupidly put the brake pedals on the same side (right) as the trundle pedal. No way to operate them both at the same time. Not unless you have 2 right feet lol

I love everything about a 1 series except the single brake pedal.
Yeah steering brakes would be good. In float things actually get worse because if you hang up on a rock then the loader folds up and the front wheels come way off the ground. :(
 

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I was reading some more comments and here is part of the problem. The float mode on the tractor is intended to follow the contour of the ground with limited down pressure. It's intent is for grading and to help limit damage to the ground you are working on. It's best used for back dragging loose material for a finished product. That being said if you angle the bucket correctly and put enough pressure on the bucket and still leave tires on the ground you can plow and steer and u don't need separate brakes for the rear. I worked in commercial construction running heavy equipment. Rarely did I need separate brakes unless I was trying to get into or out of a tight corner. Most people have no idea how to use such a set up and given the liabilities now a days and how narrow these machines are I can see how many of them would be laying on their sides from rolling them over. Also if you are like me I don't always put the rops up as soon as I pull it out of the garage. Remember too, no matter what we do without some ice melt now and then ice will always win. The ground is never perfectly flat for a bucket or blade to get all of it.. Happy plowing!
 
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