Dave,Anyway I am checking
on new bearings Monday but if any of you guys have experience with one of these
I need some advice if you have any tips or pointers thanks
Dave
Hey I really appreciate the reply I was thinking about making or buying a small press and doing just that.Dave,
I have a Frontier GM1084R finish mower (great mower!). After using it for 16 yrs and probably close to 1,000 hrs, I noticed last year that one of the 3 blade spindles had a rough sounding bearing.
I followed the good instructions in the owner's manual to tear down the spindle and replace 2 bearings/races and 2 seals. I have a 20 ton homemade hydraulic shop press, so it wasn't very hard to do. No big hammers were involved and it runs nice and smooth now.
I bought the bearings, races, and seals from John Deere. I wouldn't have been too upset with spending over $40/set for each bearing/race, but the parts where stamped made in China, and I could have ordered Timken bearings/races online for about $8/set. Ouch!
The next time a spindle needs service, I will just order the bearings/races/seals online at a fraction of the cost. I like supporting my local John Deere dealer, but I won't pay 5X as much to get imported bearings unless there is no other choice.
I see that your GM1060R uses the same spindles/parts as my GM1084R. Follow the instructions in the owner's manual (closely), and you will be fine.
Dave,I do have one question a guy I talked to says if they have inner dust covers leave them out for longer
bearing life but didn't see anything like that in the diagram do you know if they have inner dust covers
not sure what mower he has but he said it increased bearing life tremendously because the grease
could get into the spindle easier.
thanks
Dave
Dave,
These blade spindles use a pair of tapered roller bearings which are open to grease on both sides, so nothing to worry about here (if I understand the concern).
Ok thanks I sure appreciate it
Dave
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Now you know why I said "I wouldn't".I have been working on getting the spindle off all afternoon I pulled the gear box, belt, jam nut, washer
and pulled out the two 11 mm bolts from the top of the bushing. Then it said to put them in the threaded
holes and tighten equally to remove the bushing from the pulley and of coarse one broke off so I tried
vice grips on the stub and they wouldn't hold. So I soaked everything in Aerokroil and let it sit for awhile
I took a big pry bar and hammer and worked it around the bushing equally and it is moving up. I thought
if I can get it high enough I would put a 3 jaw puller on and try to get it off then drill out the broken bolt.
Anyway the temperature hit 100 and I just decided to call it quits until early Wednesday morning. I
have something tomorrow that takes priority over this so I have to take a day off. Probably need to
I was getting a little aggravated at the thing anyway. Something always goes south when I work on
something new like this! Ha Ha Oh well that's the way it goes but I'll get it eventually. I only had the
JD number from the book and it didn't cross reference but I priced JD bearings out of curiosity to
see how high they would be even though I wasn't going that route if they were made in China and
they were 136+ per spindle the Kubota dealer that sells woods said he could get them for 18.95 each
versus 29.00 for the JD bearings. The NAPA dealer said he could hook me up with SKF if I will bring
them in. I called Motion Industries and they said they are no longer open to walk in customers
due to Covid but they could mail me some to my house. Anyway still fighting this thing more
to come.
Dave