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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want one. But, this Southern boy has never installed one. Our frost line is 6-10" at best. I'm about 60 miles east of Lufkin,TX.
I've figured out the basics of installing one but my question is about the different lengths and how critical it is to have the drain valve just right below the frost line.

Most hydrants I see don't wind up tall enough for my liking. I want the handle closer to 3 foot out the ground than 2 foot.
I would think a feller could buy one that's for a frost line depth greater than I need and simply not bury it that deep to get the above ground height I desire.

Yes, no?

Thanks
 

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Yes...get tall if you don't wanna bend over.
Drain is at the bottom.

When I put them in ......I use several elbows..at least 2.
T off your main line or whatever line and go over a 1' +- ,...
Then elbow up .
Place flat brick /patio stone under elbow.

Theory here is.....When some undesireable decides to turn around in your driveway , or slide off it in the snow or whatever....It will hopefully give a bit at one of the elbows and just lean over vs snapping your main line if you had just plumbed Strait up from it.
Gives you a bit of wiggle room. I've had to replace 2 so far and have a 3rd thats different from the rest and leaks.

There are different styles.......The big fat piped one is the one leaking when its turned on.
Smaller pipe ones with no fancy linkage at top have worked and lasted much longer.

This is the type I don't like...
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I've had good success with Woodford thru the wall frost proof faucets, I assume their hydrants are of the same quality.

Here's their website :
Woodford Mfg.
 

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I installed a hydrant in my yard when I was building. That was 7 years ago now. Still sell the same one at the place I bought it from.


Mine is the 4 foot burial depth one. I'd say it's about 30" out of the ground.

The bottom of the hydrant is set in about a foot of 3/4" gravel. When you close the Handel on top all the water in the riser drains out the bottom and into the gravel.

I have mine supplied with a buried 3/4" pex line.

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be aware that a FF hydrant drains down every time you turn it off.......so the ground around the bottom of it gets soaked and is unstable ......so a tall hydrant with little support buried shallow will not support itself and will require some positive support structure to keep it from leaning over or breaking pipe underground......good comments above on installation
 

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There is only one yard hydrant worth considering—the Woodford Iowa. I like the Y1 over the Y34 because it has a bigger riser. Get whatever length you want, bury it to stick out how you want and away you go! I have to bury them 6 feet here😳
 

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There is only one yard hydrant worth considering—the Wordford Iowa. I like the Y1 over the Y34 because it has a bigger riser. Get whatever length you want, bury it to stick out how you want and away you go! I have to bury them 6 feet here😳
you might consider he is talking under a 12" burial with several feet sticking up
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks fellers.
My question is how to get the hydrant higher than ~27".

Seems from the diagrams I've seen, the hydrants for 1 foot bury depth and 3, 4 or 5 foot bury depth wind up being the same distance from ground level to the handle. ?


be aware that a FF hydrant drains down every time you turn it off.......so the ground around the bottom of it gets soaked and is unstable ......so a tall hydrant with little support buried shallow will not support itself
That's a very good point.
I was thinking of driving a T post next to it and strap it to the post.
I also have heard of some folks pouring some cement around them. Add more sand to the cement mix to weaken the mix in case you have to bust it up in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First I'll have to see how deep my water line is. Sucker may not be much more than 6".
This is new construction and will go at the end of 565' of 1 1/4" line. From there I'll install a cutoff valve and continue the line under my drive to the shop.

I suppose I could re-rig and bury that section of line a little deeper to help the rigidity of the hydrant.
 
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I just replaced one. I am southern SC and the bury depth required for water pipe is only 10 inches. My hydrants are all one foot under ground level, and 3 feet above. I feel sorry for the northern guys who have to excavate down deeper than a grave for their hydrants.

All mu hydrants are supported by fence posts. Make sure when supporting the hydrant that you leave enough room to unscrew the head from the pipe so that you can replace the rubber goods without having to dig.

I have lived a few places with frostless hydrants. The popular brands I see appear to be regional. Woodford's Iowa brand in the midwest, and Simmons are the ones I typically see in the southeast. I have Simmons - they are manufactured in Georgia.
 

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Mine is attached to a 8 foot 4x4 post all the way to the bottom of the hole. Frost depth in my area is 42".

If you want 3 feet out of the ground just get one long enough. With that much pipe sticking out of the ground you will want a solid backing post to attache it to.

Really the only rule is the bottom valve needs to be buried below frost line and you need a gravel sump for the water to drain into below frost line as well.
 

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I have replaced mine about as many times as I have used it.

Something I had to have when I built. 400' of pipe trenched and laid by me. I broke my ankle during the process, nothing to do with the hydrant, I just stepped off my equipment trailer and hit the curb wrong. Before I put my gate in the hydrant was a magnet for trucks to hit.

I am glad I have it but hardly use it. I installed a Simmons brand, overall happy with the hydrant(s) quality.
 

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As posted previously, every time it's shut off, the water in the pipe drains from the bottom. That's what keeps it from freezing... an empty pipe. (remember to remove the hose before a freeze. Otherwise the pipe won't drain) So... A drain field under the bottom is a must. A bare pipe needs a support near the handle I dig the hole next to a post, at least a foot deeper than the bury depth. Fill it with gravel, put a 1/8 elbow on the drain hole ending with 3-5 inches of rubber hose. The hose keeps the drain clear of dirt back flowing. Set the valve (which needs an elbow ) on a brick. back fill with dirt. I have three hydrants with 25 trouble free years. I'll post a pic tomorrow.
 

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If you use a hydrant to fill a watering trough and then leave the hose end in the trough, all the water in the trough will siphon back out through the hydrant into the ground after you turn off the hydrant. There is no check valve in the common frost free hydrant. I learned that lesson the hard way.
 

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You can use any length you want as long as the bottom is below the frost line.
I like having them a bit taller so I don't have to bend over and now have them close to 4 feet out of the ground. Use gravel in the bottom of the hole so it can drain properly.
You can have the bottom well below the supply line as long as you connect the two somehow.
I use 3/4 or 1 inch PEX to connect it to the supply line for a bit of 'give' in case of a hard bump against it.
I also use a treated 4x4 post for support with treated 2x4 box full of gravel for a place coil the hose and so it doesn't make a mud hole when used.
I have both Woodford and the cheaper ones. My Dear Wife prefers the cheaper ones because they require less strength/effort to operate.

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There is only one yard hydrant worth considering—the Woodford Iowa. I like the Y1 over the Y34 because it has a bigger riser. Get whatever length you want, bury it to stick out how you want and away you go! I have to bury them 6 feet here😳
Only Woodford, I have put in a few and never any problems. I did deeper and put gravel or breaker run in for it to drain.
I always make a small cement pad maybe 2' x 2' for it, helps keep it stable and eliminates the mudholes when you use it twice a day for the animals, kids always spill on the ground.
 
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