+1Just an idea. I tried this on my Woodford freezeless sillcock in my barn just now and it worked. Run a flexible wire or piece of string trimmer line up through the water outlet and as far in as you can get it along the length of the stem. How far the probe goes in before it hits the shutoff inside the wall will give you an idea about whether the sillcock is long enough so that it extends into heated space.
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Like stated above need to take the hose off or perhaps have the hose drained and pointing downhill. Like stated what happens is the outer copper pipe of the unit ruptures half way back inside the wall if there is not air from the shut off spot outward. Guess how I know.Pitched correctly? I'm not familiar with these draining sillclocks. Is this saying the sillcock doesn't drain at all but stays completely full if installed level?
So long as there is a place that ice can expand in to, it's pretty unlikely that it's not going to break or damage the facet. If it's perfectly level it'll drain as mentioned and any remaining drops are both no concern and likely to evaporate since it's indirectly exposed to the air.Does it rupture if the exposed tubing is 1/2 full of water because the drain angle was not implemented.?
It ruptures when it's full (or mostly full) of water and the water freezes and has no place to go.Does it rupture if the exposed tubing is 1/2 full of water because the drain angle was not implemented.?
I did the same. Used shark bite on copper to pex. Saved me hours of bending pipe around joists and getting it to pitch out.Then I discovered SharkBite push-on plumbing fittings at Home Depot .