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Can you see both sides of it?
 

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Just an idea. I tried this on my Woodford freezeless sillcock in my barn just now and it worked. Run a flexible wire or piece of string trimmer line up through the water outlet and as far in as you can get it along the length of the stem. How far the probe goes in before it hits the shutoff inside the wall will give you an idea about whether the sillcock is long enough so that it extends into heated space.
Wood Fixture Gas Cylinder Machine
 

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Just an idea. I tried this on my Woodford freezeless sillcock in my barn just now and it worked. Run a flexible wire or piece of string trimmer line up through the water outlet and as far in as you can get it along the length of the stem. How far the probe goes in before it hits the shutoff inside the wall will give you an idea about whether the sillcock is long enough so that it extends into heated space.
View attachment 813532
+1
I was going to tell him to unscrew the nut (the bigger one, not the one by the handle) and just pull out on the handle - the frost free spigots will have a rod that's between 5"-16" inside that tube onto which the sealing parts are affixed. No need to pull it all the way out - if you get at least 4" inches of rod, it's a frost free design. But, if you can run a wire up in through the water outlet and get the same measurement, that's (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The 2 ways I've thought of were 1) un-screw to determine how long the stem is and 2) how much water drains when shut off. There should be considerably more water drain than a non- frost / freeze proof.

Thanks for the string trimmer idea. That should work also.
 

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You could test it like I did 2 years ago - we had a family emergency in November so I forgot to take the hose off.

Went to wash the car one spring day the next year and very little water came out of the hose when I turned it on. So I grumbled and went on washing the car.

Wanna guess where all the water went?

From the wall in the foyer closet into the kitchen and then to the basement. About 15 minutes of full blast water. :cry:

Sorry no pix handy but it took days to clean up the mess.

PSA - set a reminder on the 'puter to take off hoses when first frost is predicted.
 

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Senior, From you water source, whether well or city, to your valve will be full of water. Between the valve and the open end, where hose would attach, should be free of water so it doesn't freeze. When valve is closed, water will continue to run/drain out until silcock is empty. If valve is pitched downward on the inside/house side, MOST of the water will drain, but still a freezing possibility. Bob
 

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2005 3320 with FEL, 1978 AC 5020 FEL, 2000 Bobcat 763
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FYI make sure that even if it is frost free the inside of the building is heated. I put one in a pole barn and insulated it well. Although pole barn is not heated it does stay above 40 degrees. Pipe froze anyway all the way back to the valve and broke. Not enough inside heat to offset the cold creeping in was the cause..
 

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Pitched correctly? I'm not familiar with these draining sillclocks. Is this saying the sillcock doesn't drain at all but stays completely full if installed level?
Like stated above need to take the hose off or perhaps have the hose drained and pointing downhill. Like stated what happens is the outer copper pipe of the unit ruptures half way back inside the wall if there is not air from the shut off spot outward. Guess how I know.
 

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Technically, a dead level valve will properly drain, although a downhill pitch would be better... downhill being higher where the valve connects to your water source and lower where the hose connects/water comes out.

Can you get to the piping inside the building to check the level? And to help put your mind at ease, where are you located and what is the valve going through... an inch of sheathing, 8" concrete block, pored concrete wall? With this additional info, we may be able to help more! Bob
 

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Does it rupture if the exposed tubing is 1/2 full of water because the drain angle was not implemented.?
So long as there is a place that ice can expand in to, it's pretty unlikely that it's not going to break or damage the facet. If it's perfectly level it'll drain as mentioned and any remaining drops are both no concern and likely to evaporate since it's indirectly exposed to the air.
 

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Does it rupture if the exposed tubing is 1/2 full of water because the drain angle was not implemented.?
It ruptures when it's full (or mostly full) of water and the water freezes and has no place to go.

Thus one can't leave a hose connected to it or the copper tube piece inside the wall will burst like a hot dog. And because it bursts behind the wall but in front of the shut-off valve itsel you won't know it burst until you go to open the valve and you don't have any water flow coming out of the spigot end.
 
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Luckily mine was in a crawl space, so no real damage when I turned valve on and split sprayed enough to make foundation wall wet. Finally fixed it to sell house. Much easier to run a pex line and make sure there was pitch out.


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Just before I sold our previous house I replaced mine that had split due to my leaving a hose attached. It sat unfixed for a couple of years; I just used another nearby spigot. I am claustrophhbic and was avoiding crawling under the house. Then I discovered SharkBite push-on plumbing fittings at Home Depot and realized that the sillcock was within arms reach of a foundation vent. So I removed the vent, reached in and cut the copper supply line from outside, shoved a SharkBite connector and new sillcock on from outside, re-installed the vent, and sold the house.
 

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Then I discovered SharkBite push-on plumbing fittings at Home Depot .
I did the same. Used shark bite on copper to pex. Saved me hours of bending pipe around joists and getting it to pitch out.

Not to mention trying to get all the water out of the line to soder the copper. I hate it.


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