When I pull the Relay labelled C FUEL in the manual I hear a 'click' up front. Concerned the 12v transfer pump needed to bleed air and start does not come off this?
Fuel Pump troubleshooting 1025r
Having trouble! Sorry so long!
Replaced the main canister and under the seat in line fuel filters on a 2016 1025r. 108 hours.
(looked like new)
I forgot to let the fuel pump 'pump' long enough before cranking but started with a puff of smoke and stalled.
Well as fate would have the battery died of old age at that moment.
I attached a charger, always screw up when hurrying, hit it with 55Amps. Assume I damaged the electrical system going to the fuel pump.
Bought and installed a new battery.
Cranked and reranked got some attempts but No go.
I may have in the past heard the clicking of the pump when starting, if I did my aged mind and deaf ears did not make a record. I just turned on a few seconds thinking glow plugs needed to get hot, it always started fast and well.
Held a hand on the little fuel pump, turned the switch on and felt nothing.
I pulled the fuel line to the engine and turned the switch on and no fuel is coming out.
Would you next replace the Fuel Pump Relay? Not sure how to T/S it. Assume look for 12v?
Since the machine was running when I did this regular maintenance the fuel pump could be fine,
see no broken wires or anything odd. Might just be not getting power?
Any coaching is appreciated! Darn hot in Mississippi now!!!
Kork
Replaced the main canister and under the seat in line fuel filters on a 2016 1025r. 108 hours.
(looked like new)
I forgot to let the fuel pump 'pump' long enough before cranking but started with a puff of smoke and stalled.
Well as fate would have the battery died of old age at that moment.
I attached a charger, always screw up when hurrying, hit it with 55Amps. Assume I damaged the electrical system going to the fuel pump.
Bought and installed a new battery.
Cranked and reranked got some attempts but No go.
I may have in the past heard the clicking of the pump when starting, if I did my aged mind and deaf ears did not make a record. I just turned on a few seconds thinking glow plugs needed to get hot, it always started fast and well.
Held a hand on the little fuel pump, turned the switch on and felt nothing.
I pulled the fuel line to the engine and turned the switch on and no fuel is coming out.
Would you next replace the Fuel Pump Relay? Not sure how to T/S it. Assume look for 12v?
Since the machine was running when I did this regular maintenance the fuel pump could be fine,
see no broken wires or anything odd. Might just be not getting power?
Any coaching is appreciated! Darn hot in Mississippi now!!!
Kork
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
On my 1026R the relays Feed the 1 Glow Plugs, 2 Pull in Coil on the Main Fuel Control, 3 the Starter Relay. With out digging out the service manual, I believe the little fuel pump is powered from the instrument cluster. I would pull the plug at the fuel pump just enough so you can get volt meter leads on the wires while still powering the fuel pump and see what your voltage reading is. If you can't leave the pump connected, remove the plug and put a load across the terminals with maybe a small light bulb with wires soldered to the bulb terminals. Be careful to not cause a short when running tests.
thanks, I unplugged the fuel pump and tested it with a simple 12 volt light tool, needle point and a ground, It is getting power just not working. Wish I had taken the bucket off to replace the pump. Must have cooked it when I had the charger set up on 55 amps to make it crank.On my 1026R the relays Feed the 1 Glow Plugs, 2 Pull in Coil on the Main Fuel Control, 3 the Starter Relay. With out digging out the service manual, I believe the little fuel pump is powered from the instrument cluster. I would pull the plug at the fuel pump just enough so you can get volt meter leads on the wires while still powering the fuel pump and see what your voltage reading is. If you can't leave the pump connected, remove the plug and put a load across the terminals with maybe a small light bulb with wires soldered to the bulb terminals. Be careful to not cause a short when running tests.
Seems like the pump was weak to fail like that, I would think the instrument cluster would be the weak point. Have you tried direct power to the pump to see if it will work, can you run a resistance test to see if the pump is got continuity, I would guess 3-12 ohms would be acceptable.
Good point, more troubleshooting verses swap parts till I give up and look for a mechanic. Everything else seems to work, several times even without steady fuel the engine tried to go. Stopped not wanting to add 30 years of use to the starter.
I am sure you could get a generic fuel pump that would work fine, the big difference would be the connection plug/socket and that could be removed from the original fuel pump and crimped & heat shrunk to the new pump leads. I would use high quality non-insulated solderless connectors and heat shrink with the built in heat sealant. I use this method on all my wiring where is might be exposed to the eliments. I just re-wired my utility trailer which I had done in 1995 and all the connection were still pristine. I had to re-wire when I replaced the bed, original manufacture had stapled the wires to the bottom of the deck boards and I wanted to screw the hangers to the steel frame properly.
thanks, good point.
Utility trailers are another focus. Why step back jacks and easy to replace boards are not normal, something I learned only by owning them. lol
Will post when 'she' is running again.
Utility trailers are another focus. Why step back jacks and easy to replace boards are not normal, something I learned only by owning them. lol
Will post when 'she' is running again.
Replaced the fuel pump with a aftermarket cheaper one, machine started up and runs fine. The bottom screw holding the pump is not a easy reach. Still not sure how I burned it up without blowing a fuse. Oh well.
Stay tuned for next session of 1025r saga's.
Stay tuned for next session of 1025r saga's.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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