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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I was looking at my 4310 fuse box and I have several 30 amp fuse slots that are empty. Just wondering if I could use a fuse tap in one of those empty fuse slots to add another circuit line, maybe to add a 12 volt power outlet? I think I understand that the fuse slot I use would be one that is controlled (on/off) by the ignition turning on and off with a key.

Any comments, or advice on this electrical option.

FredSG
Vietnam Combat Veteran '68-'69
 

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When you say empty. Do you mean there is a fuse in it and only one side is being utilized? Or its just an open hole and its marked '30 amps"?

And, HOWDY FRED :bigbeer:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Toughsox,

I think you and Town Manager created a monster . . . the fuse slots are empty, nothing in them and marked 30 amps.

FredSG
 

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LOL...... my OCD is rubbing off on you.

Ok, if there are no metal tabs in either hole for the fuse, then its dead. You would have to get the proper connectors that would slide into the back of the fuse box. Overall, not a hard job but at the same time, a much easier way would be to use a fuse tap.

I did a quickie google search and this looks like it should be your fuse box. Please correct me if Im wrong.
LK7zGU0.png
If so, you simply take one of the existing fuses out and slap this in its place - N9pUGYr.png
Then, your existing fuse goes into the 1 slot and your new fuse goes into the second slot. Then its just a matter of connecting that blue pigtail to whatever you want power to go to.

So yep, your on the right track but you just cant use the empty slots you currently have if there are no metal tabs in either side of the fuse hole. :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Gotcha, so if the fuse slot is marked "never used" then it's not a "working" (hot) fuse slot even if a fuse is inserted. How could you make them a "working" (hot) fuse slot? I seem to have too many of these fuse slots that are marked "never used".

Thanks again, Toughsox :good2:

FredSG
 

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Manufacturers often use parts such as this across many lines of vehicles. But they only put wiring where its needed based on that particular vehicle. Im sure somewhere there is a John Deere tractor with that exact fusebox but.....every single hole is being used by factory wiring.

To make them work as a factory fuse, you would need to know exactly what type of terminal JD is using in that box. You are familiar with blue stak-on terminals such as this - oyIotcE.png
A fusebox has a variation of this terminal, without the plastic jacket like this - NgUGpap.png
The problem here is, the unshielding one will have a metal locking tab that sticks out, and there are literally dozens upon dozens of different types available. Thats why you would have to know exactly which one JD uses.
Having said that, then you would have to find out where all the other fuses get their power, and tie one end into that, and the other end would then go to your new 12 volt outlet.

If that picture I showed is close to what your fusebox looks like, Id imagine it would be a couple of hours to do that job. Using the fusetap would take literally 5 minutes.

So, not saying using the factory fusebox isnt do-able, it just doesnt seem practical in my eyes.

Another quickie way to tap into fuses (which is where I usually pick up power for hourmeters where I work) is to use a fuse piggy back tab, such as this - LJLtsCc.png You simply take an existing fuse out of its place, tuck this behind it and you have a place to add your new wire. 1bd8Af2.png

The only problem I have found is......those little metal tabs I show in the last 2 pictures.....I havent seen those in stores in ages. And when I do, you have to buy 100 at a time.

BUT WAIT, THERES MORE !!!!!! If you do happen to want to go the route of the metal tab, and you can wait a couple of days, shoot me your address. I do believe I have half a coffee container filled with them. Id have no problem sending you a few, which should keep you wiring stuff up for the next few years. :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
 

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The only two I found that were live and not in use were hot all the time, not switched. I used the trailer option slot with a fuse tap because it didn't have a relay over it. I used a blade tap in the top right unused fuse slot and added an inline fuse. It had a relay over it so the fuse tap like you stick a fuse in the top of wouldn't fit. The never used slots in the bottom were not live on mine.

Make sure you don't stick a fuse in slot #12.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Old Machinist,

Are there any other fuses controlled by the switch key that you could tap onto to use the fuse tap method . . . I want to add a 12 volt power adapter/USB connector? Or if the fuse is a "continuous on" fuse is there a way to wire in an on/off switch so the power adapter doesn't drain the battery when the tractor is not running?

FredSG
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Old Machinist,

Would you know what this single wire is for? Comes out of the rear of the fuse panel . . . is it some kind of diagnostic testing wire? Any idea?



This is the view of my fuse panel and fuse & relay information. Looking for the best place to use a fuse tap.





FredSG
 

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Fred. Thanks for posting the picture of your actual fuse box. From what it appears, you do have a tab in the right side of F2 and F4.
LGD031B.png
Have you checked them to see if they have power when the tractor is running?

As for that loose wire, what does the end of it look like? That looks to be like a bullet connector, and the other end would have this type of connector K7r8ago.png From the looks of it, it is a simple quick disconnect connector.....but alas, what DOES it go to. :laugh:
I'd be curious if that has power as well, but Im sure @Old Machinist can tell you for sure what it goes to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Toughsox,

Thanks again for your help . . . I have not had a chance to test the #2 and #4 fuses . . . we are having YET ANOTHER snow storm so I am dealing with that . . . need to keep my 900 foot driveway clear of snow.

I have a question for you about that last electrical diagram you drew for me. I set up the wiring as shown in that diagram but I am wondering if there is any electrical draw from the battery even with the toggle switches closed? I just wanted to double check with you.

FredSG
 

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F2 and F4 are the ones I used for some add ones but both are live all the time. You will not be able to use one of the piggy back fuse taps on either because you have a full bank of relays above them. Having a 12V accessory outlet on a circuit that is hot all the time is no big deal as long as you unplug or turn off whatever you have on it when you park the tractor.

The right slot is the supply voltage and the left would be the fused connection to whatever. You can tap the right slot with a blade connection and use an inline fuse.

You could piggyback a fuse tap on any of the second or third rows. The fuse tap has two fuse holders. One that replaces the original and the other for the feed wire coming off of it. If you use a fuse tap on an unused slot leave the bottom fuse out of the tap and just put one in the top for the wire coming out of the tap.

I don't know what that bullet connector goes to but I think it hangs out the other side of my cowl. I'm not sure I would want to tap it not knowing it's purpose. I guess you could test it to see if it's hot and switched.

My tractor is missing the K10 relay. That might be why my turn signals are whacky. :dunno:
 
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I am jealous of your snow. Here in NJ we got cheated this year and might have had 6-10 inches all year.

As for battery draw with the toggles, when the switches are off, there is zero draw.

Unfortunately, with todays new vehicles, that is sometimes not the case as the electronics in them do have a 'vampire' draw in some instances. But, thats definitely not the case with those switches you have.
 

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I did a little digging into the mystery wire and found it on the same side as yours on my 4310. It seems to be powered off of the #5 fuse which is just labeled KEY ON on the tractor panel. When I pulled the #5 fuse it took power off the mystery wire and also disabled the instrument panel and the fuel cut off solenoid. I think the mystery wire may have been for a diverter valve to operate optional rear remotes off the third SCV section but that is just speculation on my part based on the X3 connection listed in the service manual wiring diagram.

According to the service manual wiring diagram Fuse 5 branches off to:

X3-W1 Main Wiring Harness to W8 Diverter Valve Wiring
Harness.

X5-W1 Main Wiring Harness to W2 SST Jumper Wiring
Harness, or W3 ePowrReverser Wiring Harness, or W4
eHydro Wiring Harness

S2-Seat Switch

S4-Park Brake Switch

S5-Rear PTO Switch

K14-Mid PTO Interlock Relay

and

X8-W1 Main Wiring Harness to Instrument Panel

I don't think I want to plug anything else into it. If you decide to use it you might want to up the #5 fuse to 30 amps. A 30 amp fuse would carry more current and still blow in the even of a dead short.
 
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LOL...... my OCD is rubbing off on you.

Ok, if there are no metal tabs in either hole for the fuse, then its dead. You would have to get the proper connectors that would slide into the back of the fuse box. Overall, not a hard job but at the same time, a much easier way would be to use a fuse tap.

I did a quickie google search and this looks like it should be your fuse box. Please correct me if Im wrong.
View attachment 680438
If so, you simply take one of the existing fuses out and slap this in its place - View attachment 680442
Then, your existing fuse goes into the 1 slot and your new fuse goes into the second slot. Then its just a matter of connecting that blue pigtail to whatever you want power to go to.

So yep, your on the right track but you just cant use the empty slots you currently have if there are no metal tabs in either side of the fuse hole. :good2:

Do you have descriptions part numbers or sources for these taps? I need something exactly like this for adding a power source for a diverter on my FIL’s 4610-thanks in advance!
 
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Additional question for either Toughsox or OldMacinist- what size fuses does this 4310 take standard, mini or micro?
 

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The one on the left, the standard ones. :good2:
Excellent, thank you for that-if I’d have guessed from the pictures posted I would have said the right side/mini one and been wrong :hide:
 
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Truth be told, you can never go wrong having a couple of each size on hand.....they are cheap enough. :mocking:

Actually though, you probably would never use the middle one. But the other 2 I use constantly when working on friends and family vehicles. They have a ton of uses.
 
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