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I've decided to upgrade to Gator Blades. My question is whether to get the G5 or G6 blades for x758 with 60HC deck. From my understanding, they are the same design, but the G6 is a little thicker and heavier. Is there any reason not to go with the G6? Does one cut better than the other because of the thickness?
 

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Been running G6s on my 54C deck and they work great. the edge is supposed to last longer than the standard blades. Oregon impregnates a harder metal on the bottom of the edge on the G6s.
 

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I have the G6's on my 62" deck.The G5 were lighter than the stock blades.
 

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The G5 for my 46" deck on the 318 were heavy than the stock ones, I must say how well they are lasting on my deck too, with all the crap I get to chop up and bag. :bigthumb:
 

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I put the G6 blades on my x758's 60HC deck shortly after buying it. The stock blades didn't do a very impressive job. Of course, the Gators don't either. :-( They are better than stock though. Very thick and heavy. I have no trouble mulching up sticks the diameter of my thumb.

Rob
 

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I use the G6 blades on my 48" deck. Amazing blade.
 

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Im about to pull the trigger on an X758 with 60" deck and some other goodys for it, still making my list of stuff. Where are all finding your G6 Gator blades? I'll definitely be needing some. Thanks in advance.
 

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Go to Amazon. You can usually find them in sets of 3ea. for less than $35.
 

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Originally, when the Gator blades came out, some required a washer shim to tighten them on the spindles correctly. The shims could be a pain because they stick to the blades and they stick to the spindle flange. One of my neighbors was having trouble with an un level cut on his mower deck, it wasn't necessarily "crooked" like the deck was leaning, but he was getting one blade cutting lower than others. I found he ended up without shims on two of the blades and two shims, one stuck to the blade and one stuck to that spindle base flange on the blade which was cutting lower. That lowered the blade about 1/8" which was noticeable. That was the problem.....

So, when in doubt, I would get a thicker blade so the shim issue doesn't ever come into play and so the blades are torqued correctly. I have found the best blades are the ones which Oregon makes (the Oregon brand was using the shims when they first came out, BTW)....which are sharpened far closer to the center spindle and they have a flare on the tip of the blade. These blades seem to chop the clippings the best and provide a great cut. I get them from my local small engine dealer, who is a friend.

One other point, some of the newer blades have a Tungsten strip on the bottom of the blade. Be careful when sharpening these blades to sharpen them correctly. Blades are NOT sharpened like a knife, with the cutting point in the center of the blade. Properly sharpened lawn mower blades are ground to the correct angle and maintain the cutting edge as designed. Also, if you sharpen yourself, make sure the blades are balanced when you are done or you will get a wobble and wear out the spindle bearings and other problems.
 

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One last point when you are buying blades online or from an unknown source. Make sure the blade length is EXACTLY RIGHT. Measure them yourself before installing when comparing to your OEM blades. Blades are made in lengths of 1/16th of an inch for many applications and you want to make sure you are getting something which is RIGHT for your machine. If you were to get blades which were too long by 1/16th of an inch, they would not clear one another when they meet while spinning.

Too short a blade and you leave strips between the blades uncut and it looks like amateur hour.

Too long a blade and you will destroy mower components and maybe get you or someone else hurt.

ALWAYS rotate the blades when mounted to make sure they are meeting correctly and squarely to one another and clearing as they should. When buying on the internet or in mail order, I have seen blades shipped which were marked wrong or where the part number label had fallen off. Mistakes are made. These mistakes can be very costly.

This is something where the blades must be EXACTLY the right size to work correctly and provide the best cut.

The thickness is also important because as I mentioned in my earlier post, some blades were too thin and could not be torqued correctly without the shim washer. The result is a blade which spins on the spindle and can't be properly secured or wobbles and neither is a good thing.

So always buy quality and always double check the blade you get to make sure they are correct and fit as designed and intended.

- Check the length of the blade, compare it to OEM and measure it yourself
- Measure The thickness of the blade at the mounting point
- Check The blade mounting hole diameter
- Make sure when mounted the blades clear one another correctly when spinning on the deck
- Make sure the flare on the end of the gator blades clears the underside of the deck when mounted

and last, but not least, you would be surprised how many people mount the blades on upside down and don't realize it until they start to till their lawn with the "lift Flanges".......I have even seen repair shops make this mistake. So pay close attention and always double check everything.
 

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I have an x738 with a 60HC deck with a multch kit installed. Would these blades work for the multch kit or should I stay with the stock multching blades?
 
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