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Discussion Starter #1
When I bought the house the shop was just a metal frame with a roof and some what looked like used doors and windows. When my GC pulled the permits to finish we found it had been red tagged, hence the frame and roof during original construction.

Since it is 1,050sq feet a footer is required or it had to be built on 2ft drained gravel base, neither was done. So they dug the footer today. It will underpin the concrete by 8 to 10 inches. Passed inpsection this afternoon and they will pour concrete tomorrow.

Found the electric conduit just went through the slab so I will have to trench to the house. I have to redo the front walk at some point I will probably run the conduit under the walk then up across the open area. But 1st off is getting footer in and the building weathertight. Going with vertical hardie plank board and baton on the outside.

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boy oh boy that sucks big time. :banghead: but at least now it will be done and up to code [email protected]&#(&^%:munch:

this cement board u talk of--i think i've seen Make it Right show use it a lot, i would of used it, if we would of built our house, but it was a module built place. so no way they would of used it. but i like it.

:munch:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Oh good grief that sucks. :thumbsdown:

Correct me if I'm wrong; but aren't you the same guy that has the grinder pump issues with his new to him house? Either way, you have my sympathy, which is all I can offer from Colorado.
Yup grinder pump is is fixed so now getting the shop done.

I have a big solar panel I used to keep my boat charged because my parking spot was off another road on the back side of the lot. I plan to rig it up with some 12 volt led lights so we will have light inside until we run power.

Was funny the wife was joking last night that we always went ah when we watched folks on TV buy a house a sink a bunch of :gizmo:into it. She said yup that is us. Grinder pump, finish shop, all new LED can Lights. Entire house paints. All of the extensive wood sanded lightly and re-stained and this time coated with poly. Last but not least all of the half finished trim work completed and the back inside steps completed and stained.

Next Tuesday we get to wake up there.

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Discussion Starter #6
Have been busy moved to the new house yesterday. 3 men and a truck from the local United shop for 6 hrs plus an hour drive time came out right at $1,000. They got all of the big stuff moved including the exercise equipment into the basement.

While they were unloading at the new house the crew show up to pour the footers on the shop. Took two loads, looks like they did good job. Hardie siding and it will be weather tight. Electric and interior finish is a future project.

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Discussion Starter #7
Skin time

We had nice weather today so the crew started putting the skin on today. They are putting the 1/4 inch thick hardie board 4x8 sheet material up and bending all of the metal to cover the wood along the roof. They are using a vinyl board along the bottom which will not wick water like the edge of the Hardi cement product.

They will finish the front Tomm and start on the battens. The Battenss that were delivered were not correct they smooth vs wood grain so they the lumber yard will be in to swap them out Friday.


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Discussion Starter #8
They got the big sheets on the front today and finished the flashing. Now they just need the wood grain batten replacements to finish it off.

And yes the storage unit doors will go. We will put something up we can stain wood color to match the house.

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Nice Shop! If I had the extra funds and was much younger I would build ME a REAL SHOP I could drive the tractor into to keep or work on it. My Daughter did it right built it the way she needed hers and wanted it the first time. I built my first shop as big as I could afford to pay cash for. It ended up 20 x 28 and could have been twice that big to be real useful! Least I made the ceilings 9 ft high and a 16 ft wide 8 ft high roll up door with 2 walk in doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Once I get this weather tight I will be saving to wire it and then finish the inside. I have a big solar panel I used to use to charge my boat. I am going to wire 12 volt lights for now and run them off the solar.
 

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Once I get this weather tight I will be saving to wire it and then finish the inside. I have a big solar panel I used to use to charge my boat. I am going to wire 12 volt lights for now and run them off the solar.
Put permanent power high on the priority list.
I had same intentions as you, using battery or generator power when needed.
Bit the bullet and got wiring trenched under the road and hooked up last fall.
UNBELIEVABLE how much more useful this building has been!
Keep in mind that the expense of this project will increase at a rate that will likely outpace the interest rate, so you're essentially LOSING MONEY trying to save up to pay this project.
Just do it, and I am confident that you will come back to this thread in a year and say it was a very good decision.
 

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Yup grinder pump is is fixed so now getting the shop done.

I have a big solar panel I used to keep my boat charged because my parking spot was off another road on the back side of the lot. I plan to rig it up with some 12 volt led lights so we will have light inside until we run power.

Was funny the wife was joking last night that we always went ah when we watched folks on TV buy a house a sink a bunch of :gizmo:into it. She said yup that is us. Grinder pump, finish shop, all new LED can Lights. Entire house paints. All of the extensive wood sanded lightly and re-stained and this time coated with poly. Last but not least all of the half finished trim work completed and the back inside steps completed and stained.

Next Tuesday we get to wake up there.

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It is probably water over the dam at this point, but I sure hope all that woodwork you slightly sanded and re-coated with Poly wasn't finished with lacquer before. Poly won't bind to lacquer and it will begin to peel in time. There are few "professionals" that apply poly due to the time it takes and cost. Lacquer is the finish of choice for them as it is cheap, applies well and dries quickly.

When I built our primary home 20+ years ago, I did all the woodwork. Three coats of poly on everything. I utilized a spar poly (Minwax Helmsman) on all the woodwork on an exterior wall (lots of windows and sliding doors) or exposed to direct sunlight. The UV will peel regular poly in just a few years. I didn't think I was ever going to get done. The poly back then dried very slow. It would still be tacky to the touch three days after spraying and it would be 7 to 10 days before I could sand between coats. I became very anal about keeping the dust cleaned up so I typically didn't have to sand between coats two and three, just rub out with 0000 steel wool. I rebuilt the beach house 10 years ago and the poly was dry enough overnight to sand between coats. So something changed.

Last winter, I refinished all the bedroom sets I had purchased in the '80s and '90s for the children's rooms and another dining room set, for the dinette. It is identical to the set in our formal dining room, with the exception of a laminate top rather than joined oak. It was all either Cochrane or Sumter, which was well built furniture---especially compared to the crap that is sold today. Unfortunately, it was finished with lacquer, so the finish was not durable. They also used wood drawer glides, which my daughters were good at splitting apart as they would lean on the drawer when opening it.

I replaced all the drawer glides with full extension ball-bearing glides and refinished it all with three coats of varnish, four coats on the dining room chairs. Varnish will bind to lacquer and thus why I utilized it. Finding a satin sheen varnish was challenging. Sherwinn-Williams was the only outlet I found for it. The first batch was their classic series, which I had problems with spraying. It would dry so fast that the over spray that settled on to the areas that I began the coat on would not "flow" into it, leaving a rough finish or it would settle on the areas at the end of the coat and I'd be spraying over it and end up with a rough finish. So it really limited how much I could do at one time and I was having to cover pieces that would be sprayed last with plastic. It was some old product, evident by the amount that was "stuck" to the bottom of the can when stirring it. When I complained to Sherwinn-Williams about it, I found out they had discontinued it and this was old stock they were clearing out. It had been replaced with a Minwax product (Minwax is now owned by Sherwinn-Williams) that is exclusively sold at Sherwinn-Willliams, or so they said. It applied much, much, better.

The Cochrane family attempted to re-enter the furniture business about 10 years ago. The biggest thing they struggled with and was the nails in their coffin, was the finish. They were utilizing a water based finish and were having all sorts of issues with it and the application fumes, which required major, unanticipated upgrades ($$$$) to the plant.
 

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Once I get this weather tight I will be saving to wire it and then finish the inside. I have a big solar panel I used to use to charge my boat. I am going to wire 12 volt lights for now and run them off the solar.
I learned a bunch from my last shop, mostly what not to do. I only had maybe 30 amp service to that shop, it was a long way from the house to the shop and I was pinching pennies. The ceiling was 10’ (two story barn type) which I always hit the ceiling moving 8 foot boards around. My pottie was under the stairs sort of in the open.

My current shop has a separate 200 amp meter, the ceiling is about 15’ and my shop office/pottie/shower is enclosed. The only flaw is size, it’s 30’ by 50’ - I wish it was three times that size.
 

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The Cochrane family attempted to re-enter the furniture business about 10 years ago. The biggest thing they struggled with and was the nails in their coffin, was the finish. They were utilizing a water based finish and were having all sorts of issues with it and the application fumes, which required major, unanticipated upgrades ($$$$) to the plant.
I think this is the reason modern car finishes have a slight orange peel texture instead of a nice solid gloss. I've always had better luck with petroleum based solvent paints over water based. The notable exception being latex interior house paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The crew came today to finish off the trim work. It looks totally different. Now I just need the doors. They did put the fiberglass side door in and we will stain to match the garage doors and house. The new gelcoat stains are amazing.

I have 400 AMP into the house will have to work out what to run to the shop but at 1400ft to the street will just add a sub panel.

The center door is for Incase I get a new tractor some day with more height requirement than the 2305. It also needs nosed down, the cement dust from them sawing the hardie is evident in many places.

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Pardon me I'm not being critical, but I'm curious, 400amps seems like a lot. What do you use that requires that kind of power? By the way, if I had a shop that nice my wife would never see me.
 

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Pardon me I'm not being critical, but I'm curious, 400amps seems like a lot. What do you use that requires that kind of power? By the way, if I had a shop that nice my wife would never see me.
I also have a 400 amp service comes in handy to add sub panels off of for me. Don't need 400 amps but some times our electric bill is over $900.00 a month! Has something to do with 2 water heater, well pump, 15-17 freezers, 4-5 trough heaters in the winter, my daughters 3200 SF Shop ect. It will drop big time now that winter is over because of the heaters keeping things warm like animals and water. Freezers are for storage of Taxidermy stuff. We heat our home with wood only and the new shop has a great Heat Pump system to heat it with 19 amps at 240 volts. Could not do this off a 200 amp service. On your new shop put at least 100 amps in there to work with. We have over 6,000 SF covered floor space now to light and some of it to heat.
 

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Pardon me I'm not being critical, but I'm curious, 400amps seems like a lot. What do you use that requires that kind of power? By the way, if I had a shop that nice my wife would never see me.
We have a 400 amp service in the house, for me it was about breakers spaces since I have a wood and metal shop in my basement with lots of 240v tools. Then add 2 HVAC systems, 100 amp feed to the pole barn, a welder outlet and electric heater in the garage, big air compressor, ect and you quickly run out of room in a standard 42 space panel, it would be even worse if we didn't use propane for the dryer, stove, and water heater.
 
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