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Getting the shop up to code

8K views 41 replies 17 participants last post by  ttazzman 
#1 ·
When I bought the house the shop was just a metal frame with a roof and some what looked like used doors and windows. When my GC pulled the permits to finish we found it had been red tagged, hence the frame and roof during original construction.

Since it is 1,050sq feet a footer is required or it had to be built on 2ft drained gravel base, neither was done. So they dug the footer today. It will underpin the concrete by 8 to 10 inches. Passed inpsection this afternoon and they will pour concrete tomorrow.

Found the electric conduit just went through the slab so I will have to trench to the house. I have to redo the front walk at some point I will probably run the conduit under the walk then up across the open area. But 1st off is getting footer in and the building weathertight. Going with vertical hardie plank board and baton on the outside.

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#2 ·
Oh good grief that sucks. :thumbsdown:

Correct me if I'm wrong; but aren't you the same guy that has the grinder pump issues with his new to him house? Either way, you have my sympathy, which is all I can offer from Colorado.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Yup grinder pump is is fixed so now getting the shop done.

I have a big solar panel I used to keep my boat charged because my parking spot was off another road on the back side of the lot. I plan to rig it up with some 12 volt led lights so we will have light inside until we run power.

Was funny the wife was joking last night that we always went ah when we watched folks on TV buy a house a sink a bunch of :gizmo:into it. She said yup that is us. Grinder pump, finish shop, all new LED can Lights. Entire house paints. All of the extensive wood sanded lightly and re-stained and this time coated with poly. Last but not least all of the half finished trim work completed and the back inside steps completed and stained.

Next Tuesday we get to wake up there.

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#3 ·
boy oh boy that sucks big time. :banghead: but at least now it will be done and up to code now.@&#(&^%:munch:

this cement board u talk of--i think i've seen Make it Right show use it a lot, i would of used it, if we would of built our house, but it was a module built place. so no way they would of used it. but i like it.

:munch:
 
#6 ·
Have been busy moved to the new house yesterday. 3 men and a truck from the local United shop for 6 hrs plus an hour drive time came out right at $1,000. They got all of the big stuff moved including the exercise equipment into the basement.

While they were unloading at the new house the crew show up to pour the footers on the shop. Took two loads, looks like they did good job. Hardie siding and it will be weather tight. Electric and interior finish is a future project.

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#7 ·
Skin time

We had nice weather today so the crew started putting the skin on today. They are putting the 1/4 inch thick hardie board 4x8 sheet material up and bending all of the metal to cover the wood along the roof. They are using a vinyl board along the bottom which will not wick water like the edge of the Hardi cement product.

They will finish the front Tomm and start on the battens. The Battenss that were delivered were not correct they smooth vs wood grain so they the lumber yard will be in to swap them out Friday.


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#8 ·
They got the big sheets on the front today and finished the flashing. Now they just need the wood grain batten replacements to finish it off.

And yes the storage unit doors will go. We will put something up we can stain wood color to match the house.

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#10 ·
Nice Shop! If I had the extra funds and was much younger I would build ME a REAL SHOP I could drive the tractor into to keep or work on it. My Daughter did it right built it the way she needed hers and wanted it the first time. I built my first shop as big as I could afford to pay cash for. It ended up 20 x 28 and could have been twice that big to be real useful! Least I made the ceilings 9 ft high and a 16 ft wide 8 ft high roll up door with 2 walk in doors.
 
#11 ·
Once I get this weather tight I will be saving to wire it and then finish the inside. I have a big solar panel I used to use to charge my boat. I am going to wire 12 volt lights for now and run them off the solar.
 
#12 ·
Put permanent power high on the priority list.
I had same intentions as you, using battery or generator power when needed.
Bit the bullet and got wiring trenched under the road and hooked up last fall.
UNBELIEVABLE how much more useful this building has been!
Keep in mind that the expense of this project will increase at a rate that will likely outpace the interest rate, so you're essentially LOSING MONEY trying to save up to pay this project.
Just do it, and I am confident that you will come back to this thread in a year and say it was a very good decision.
 
#16 ·
The crew came today to finish off the trim work. It looks totally different. Now I just need the doors. They did put the fiberglass side door in and we will stain to match the garage doors and house. The new gelcoat stains are amazing.

I have 400 AMP into the house will have to work out what to run to the shop but at 1400ft to the street will just add a sub panel.

The center door is for Incase I get a new tractor some day with more height requirement than the 2305. It also needs nosed down, the cement dust from them sawing the hardie is evident in many places.

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#17 · (Edited)
Pardon me I'm not being critical, but I'm curious, 400amps seems like a lot. What do you use that requires that kind of power? By the way, if I had a shop that nice my wife would never see me.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I also have a 400 amp service comes in handy to add sub panels off of for me. Don't need 400 amps but some times our electric bill is over $900.00 a month! Has something to do with 2 water heater, well pump, 15-17 freezers, 4-5 trough heaters in the winter, my daughters 3200 SF Shop ect. It will drop big time now that winter is over because of the heaters keeping things warm like animals and water. Freezers are for storage of Taxidermy stuff. We heat our home with wood only and the new shop has a great Heat Pump system to heat it with 19 amps at 240 volts. Could not do this off a 200 amp service. On your new shop put at least 100 amps in there to work with. We have over 6,000 SF covered floor space now to light and some of it to heat.
 
#22 ·
Okay, now I understand why the big amp panels. Would 3-phase motors/pumps make things any less expensive for any of you? Just asking.
 
#24 ·
400 AMP service is not all that uncommon now-a-days. Due to the sheer number of circuits required by code, a single panel is not large enough, especially if you are rural. I have 2 200 AMP 40 slot panels, one is full and the other is half full.

Between needing 4 or 5 circuits for the master bath, 6 or so for the kitchen, AFIs for bedrooms, a couple for septic system, 4 for HVAC, using 2 slots each for 220v backup baseboard heat (8 circuits), and regular lighting/outlets you can see it is very easy to need 2 panels. So when you add up all of the potential capacity allocated to the circuits, I am required to have 400 AMP service.

If I ever get around to building a garage/workshop, I would end up going with a separate meter. Back when we built, the neighbor was also building so we ending up getting a transformer installed on the property line even with the structures. A new buried line to the transformer would end up being less than 100 feet.
 
#25 ·
When I built our main home, I put in a 225 amp general service and a 200 amp off-peak. Code limits electrical panels to no more than 40 openings. The 225 amp panel is full. I have a 20 opening 100 amp feeder adjacent to it, I think it has four vacant openings. I have another 20 opening 90 amp feeder in the master bedroom which may be has one or two vacant openings. I have a 20 opening 90 amp feeder in the garage/workshop. It is full and I had to add a tandem breaker for the second sewage lift pump that came with the drainfield replacement. I had a 90 amp 20 opening feeder each for both the general service and the off peak in the beach house. When I re-did the beach house, it wasn't enough openings between the mandatory dedicated circuits code had added and those for the air compressor, pressure washer, tile heat, etc.. I ended up replacing it with a 32 opening panel and I think there is 6 vacant openings left.

When I did the load calculations for the service, 200 amp wasn't enough. I squeaked by with a 225 amp service with a few amps to spare. Otherwise, I would have been doing a 400 amp general service. Hind sight being 20-20, I'm not sure if I save that much money. I about fell off my chair when I received the invoice for that 225 amp panel. I was thinking it would be a few bucks more than a 200 amp---WRONG, once again I learned the definition of assume! I also ended up having to use copper conductors for my service laterals.

If they would have been making 32 opening 100 amp panels when I built the home, I would have utilized that instead of the 20 opening panels. However, at that time, 20 openings was as large a 100 amp was offered.

If they would have had 3-phase available, I would have probably opted for it. But the nearest 3-phase is over 2 miles away.
 
#31 ·
When I wired our place, I had to put in a mandatory 200amp service for electric heat. I used 'Space Saver' breakers for most of the spaces so even though there's more than 30 circuits in the panel there's still a few spaces available. The 'Space Saver' breakers put two circuits in the same space as a single regular breaker and we are allowed to use them for 240v breakers if we put a tie-bar between the one side of the 'S-S' and the opposite side of the one beside it. They may be allowed in your area too, so if you are doing another panel some time they could save you installing an extra panel. Sorry to hear that 3ph is so far away.
 
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#26 ·
The way they set ours up is dual 200AMP panels. One panel has all of the 110 circuits and the other all of the 220 lines. I have a ton of open breakers.


The house has Wayne Dalton 9700 garage doors in Red Oak with 16 pane curved windows. I don’t even want to think about what they cost. I found Clopay’s in oak with windows that look the same but different fake wood stamping pattern for $1,290 a door for the 7fts and I don’t know how much for the 8ft. I asked him to find the cost difference. I don’t think it is that critical that the doors match exactly?

Clopay “cheap” door.
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#28 ·
The house has Wayne Dalton 9700 garage doors in Red Oak with 16 pane curved windows. I don’t even want to think about what they cost. I found Clopay’s in oak with windows that look the same but different fake wood stamping pattern for $1,290 a door for the 7fts and I don’t know how much for the 8ft. I asked him to find the cost difference. I don’t think it is that critical that the doors match exactly?
How far apart are the two structures? I vote to get the new doors to match the house, at least get a price on them.
 
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#27 ·
Good choice on the hardie panel siding. I would never use wood siding on a house ever again. Hardie is the only reason my entire old townhouse building isn't a smoking hole in the ground and possibly the reason I'm even alive today. Raging fire burning against the back wall of my unit for about 20-25 minutes and never got through to the inside wood structure. FD arrived just in time as it was starting to reach my neighbor's rotted wood siding, at which point it would have go straight up into the truss roof attics. My house had a lot of smoke and water damage inside, but repairable and nobody is dead.

The fact that it is impervious to water and insects is wonderful too.
 
#29 ·
It is 200ft from the house to the shed. You see the shed doors before the doors on the house since the doors on the house are side enter and away from where you come out of the woods. My GC is getting the pricing on the matching Wayne Dalton doors and the Clopay doors. My bet is we will kick ourselves in a few years if we don’t match them now.

Had left over battens and will keep them, the house is all brick and real stone except a couple of gable ends that are fake plastic cedar shake. They are nice but are showing wear after 10 years. I am thinking of replacing with the same finish as the shed. It would tie everything together.
 
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#32 ·
The verdict is in. It is $1,600 more for the matching Wayne Dalton 9,700s which is totally acceptable. I was afraid their would be a bigger delta between the two. The quality of they WD doors is awesome. The house doors have not even faded in 10 years on the house.

They wanted 500 an opener but We are passing on that since we don’t have the power run out to the building yet.
 
#33 ·
The Wayne Dalton folks were out with the contractor yesterday to very everything before ordering the doors. He verified the stain colors by the code stamped in each panel. He had actually hung the doors 10 years ago. What is interesting instead of fading the doors are actually darker than they were 10 years ago.

The factory is sending him a stain stick for stain on the door that shows lighter to darker shades around the original. You pick a point on the stick and they match that. He said it is they same process they use when you destroy the bottom panel of the door with your ROPS and they need to replace it. They just get to run 12 panels the same color, instead of one. Also the custom match has no upcharge, which is good.
 
#34 ·
Finishing touch

The doors finally arrived yesterday and they put them up today.

Really makes the shed look complete. I have 42 tons of 2B gravel I am spreading around the shed now on geo fabric. I have 100ft of French drain to run down one side and around the back. I picked up a middle buster at TSC which is really helps trench the pipe in. Should be dried out enough to finish the next couple of days.

The side doors are 3 panel 7ft and the tractor bay in the center is 8ft 4 panel. When you look at it you would swear the center door is narrower, but it is not. Electric is a future add so they are set up manual open. They fully clear the door frame when you put them up and have a nice toe push down to give that extra shove done before sliding the latch.


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#35 ·
The doors finally arrived yesterday and they put them up today.

Really makes the shed look complete. I have 42 tons of 2B gravel I am spreading around the shed now on geo fabric. I have 100ft of French drain to run down one side and around the back. I picked up a middle buster at TSC which is really helps trench the pipe in. Should be dried out enough to finish the next couple of days.

The side doors are 3 panel 7ft and the tractor bay in the center is 8ft 4 panel. When you look at it you would swear the center door is narrower, but it is not. Electric is a future add so they are set up manual open. They fully clear the door frame when you put them up and have a nice toe push down to give that extra shove done before sliding the latch.


:bigthumb::bigthumb:
 
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#37 ·
That’s quite the shop. My compliments. Love the doors. I like the vertical hardy. Probably going to put that on my future build. Thanks for sharing.


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#39 ·
Now that the shell is complete and signed off I will have to start on the inside.

That will wait for cooler weather. My plan is to wire for 110 but will run with a solar panel, battery storage and inverter for awhile. If I see the need I can run a conduit from the house and just wire that into the panel.
 
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