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Discussion Starter #1
Notice I said deterrent, cause you will never stop a determined thief...

Trailer will be stowed in a relatively open area for 3-4 months - can't be helped
Not a particularly bad area - but you can't be too careful
Tractor will be disabled thru several means - mostly fuse removal and adding 2 hidden switches to complete circuits required to start etc
Both fully insured for replacement value

Picking up a new trailer Wednesday
Bought a Ganderlock (Remove the gooseneck ball receiver) and this lock goes in its place - not sure how pickable it is, but you will be doing it upside down - hopefully slightly harder than a master lock
I plan on removing the crank handle for the jacks
I plan to remove the tie rod for the jacks (Located in the locked chain cabinet on this trailer
Going to make a sleeve to fit over the exposed section of the jacks and then use a guillotine lock in the bolt holes to prevent using a pipe wrench on the stubs
This trailer will also have my brand new 4044R on it

What I am trying to figure out is should I move the tractor way back to almost completely eliminate tongue weight or move it completely forward and maximize tongue weight and place the jack all the way up or down. To make it as hard as possible and require they have to move the jacks, even if they hook the exposed gooseneck onto the truck bed.

Should I remove all binders from the tractor while it sits - this way they can't just steal the chain and binders?

Am I missing anything?
 

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Notice I said deterrent, cause you will never stop a determined thief...

Trailer will be stowed in a relatively open area for 3-4 months - can't be helped
Not a particularly bad area - but you can't be too careful
Tractor will be disabled thru several means - mostly fuse removal and adding 2 hidden switches to complete circuits required to start etc
Both fully insured for replacement value

Picking up a new trailer Wednesday
Bought a Ganderlock (Remove the gooseneck ball receiver) and this lock goes in its place - not sure how pickable it is, but you will be doing it upside down - hopefully slightly harder than a master lock
I plan on removing the crank handle for the jacks
I plan to remove the tie rod for the jacks (Located in the locked chain cabinet on this trailer
Going to make a sleeve to fit over the exposed section of the jacks and then use a guillotine lock in the bolt holes to prevent using a pipe wrench on the stubs
This trailer will also have my brand new 4044R on it

What I am trying to figure out is should I move the tractor way back to almost completely eliminate tongue weight or move it completely forward and maximize tongue weight and place the jack all the way up or down. To make it as hard as possible and require they have to move the jacks, even if they hook the exposed gooseneck onto the truck bed.

Should I remove all binders from the tractor while it sits - this way they can't just steal the chain and binders?

Am I missing anything?
Can’t be helped? You are going through an awful lot to leave it by itself for a long period of time. There has to be other options - like storing it at a proper storage facility with security.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can’t be helped? You are going through an awful lot to leave it by itself for a long period of time. There has to be other options - like storing it at a proper storage facility with security.
It will be in a storage lot, with a fence, security, keypad and constant camera monitoring

That only tells me WHO stole it, not preventing it from being stolen

I am leaving the country and due to a series of mis steps by the SC dept of highways, my driveway and thus building permits were held up for almost 3 months needlessly - so my driveway isn't built and my barn isn't started yet either

Hence it can't be helped - I will be out of the country for roughly 11-15 weeks
 

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Sounds like you have pretty much thought about everything already. I would agree that lowering the front stands would be a good idea after disabling them. I would also move the tractor to the front to make it more difficult to raise it. I would not leave the chains/binders on it, however I would use a large chain with padlock to chain it to the gooseneck part of the trailer. The bigger the chain the better. Good luck.

I will check into that Ganderlock as I have a 31ft gooseneck flatbed that sits behind the garage without any kind of lock on it.

Dave

EDIT::: I just checked out the Ganderlock and feel I would not want to go that way. However, I think it would be great for your particular usage as the coupler tube has been removed and you can store it at a separate place.
 

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Take the wheels, ramps, and hitch off the trailer. Probably won't go anywhere.
 

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Notice I said deterrent, cause you will never stop a determined thief...

Trailer will be stowed in a relatively open area for 3-4 months - can't be helped
Not a particularly bad area - but you can't be too careful
Tractor will be disabled thru several means - mostly fuse removal and adding 2 hidden switches to complete circuits required to start etc
Both fully insured for replacement value

Picking up a new trailer Wednesday
Bought a Ganderlock (Remove the gooseneck ball receiver) and this lock goes in its place - not sure how pickable it is, but you will be doing it upside down - hopefully slightly harder than a master lock
I plan on removing the crank handle for the jacks
I plan to remove the tie rod for the jacks (Located in the locked chain cabinet on this trailer
Going to make a sleeve to fit over the exposed section of the jacks and then use a guillotine lock in the bolt holes to prevent using a pipe wrench on the stubs
This trailer will also have my brand new 4044R on it

What I am trying to figure out is should I move the tractor way back to almost completely eliminate tongue weight or move it completely forward and maximize tongue weight and place the jack all the way up or down. To make it as hard as possible and require they have to move the jacks, even if they hook the exposed gooseneck onto the truck bed.

Should I remove all binders from the tractor while it sits - this way they can't just steal the chain and binders?

Am I missing anything?



Set it on blocks and remove the wheels. Done.
 

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DeWalt sells things called Mobile locks. Battery operated and can be affixed to anything. It will send YOU alerts if it sense's vibrations, movement and give you location in real time. I have several for my trailers and expensive equipment that I keep at my shop in town. They work great! Might give you a little more peace of mind.

Home - DEWALT MOBILELOCK
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had contemplated taking the wheels off

I just don't know how to properly block the trailer to account for the weight -
Do I:
Blocks under the spring perch
Block the side rails
Block the actual axles where the tires go - U shaped top block to go around the brake drum? (Can I even block the drum or should I stay away from this area?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
DeWalt sells things called Mobile locks. Battery operated and can be affixed to anything. It will send YOU alerts if it sense's vibrations, movement and give you location in real time. I have several for my trailers and expensive equipment that I keep at my shop in town. They work great! Might give you a little more peace of mind.

Home - DEWALT MOBILELOCK

I have quite a few friends who use this: Trailer GPS tracking in real time with 5-year battery. No fees.

I figure I'll go with that - it works well for them - and I don't have to buy it because one has an extra currently, so there is that

Again, this only helps recovery though - not deterrent - but it will drop my insurance coverage quite a bit
 

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You could just bring your tractor up to my shop. It would be locked up and inside. I'm only 3 hrs from Chuck town.
 

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You could just bring your tractor up to my shop. It would be locked up and inside. I'm only 3 hrs from Chuck town.
That is a perfect solution,,
around here, we have several RV storage yards,, with high fence and 24 hour patrols,,,

Those RVs are secure!! There are boats and tractors parked there all the time also,,,
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You could just bring your tractor up to my shop. It would be locked up and inside. I'm only 3 hrs from Chuck town.
I'll be rolling thru your area to get the trailer tomorrow up 26 and rolling down 385 to Atlanta


That said: I think I may have just gotten a reprieve - the JD dealer won't have many of the parts in (3rd SCV, canopy top, ePTO) and several of the implements until mid to late Jan. They also thought the ePTO was a computer upgrade - Said install time was listed as 30 minutes - they had no idea you had to change the output shaft and one other pinion gear (Has seperate install time listed in their dealer whatever thingy they were looking at - Which doesn't leave me with a warm fuzzy - but they said they change output shaft seals often - so it can't be much more than that (That is what I am telling myself)

They also just opened a new big store with tons of storage, tall locked fenced area etc - and they are kind of wanting to have a 4 series around anyway - even on the trailer as they sell them basically as fast as they receive them.

So, I hope some of my fears are allayed, but will still be plenty nervous and I still plan to take most of the precautions, but I will sleep slightly better, if for no other reason than in their lot, I only have to make mine less appealing to steal than all the others LOL
 

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I'll be rolling thru your area to get the trailer tomorrow up 26 and rolling down 385 to Atlanta


That said: I think I may have just gotten a reprieve - the JD dealer won't have many of the parts in (3rd SCV, canopy top, ePTO) and several of the implements until mid to late Jan. They also thought the ePTO was a computer upgrade - Said install time was listed as 30 minutes - they had no idea you had to change the output shaft and one other pinion gear (Has seperate install time listed in their dealer whatever thingy they were looking at - Which doesn't leave me with a warm fuzzy - but they said they change output shaft seals often - so it can't be much more than that (That is what I am telling myself)

They also just opened a new big store with tons of storage, tall locked fenced area etc - and they are kind of wanting to have a 4 series around anyway - even on the trailer as they sell them basically as fast as they receive them.

So, I hope some of my fears are allayed, but will still be plenty nervous and I still plan to take most of the precautions, but I will sleep slightly better, if for no other reason than in their lot, I only have to make mine less appealing to steal than all the others LOL
You didn’t say that you didn’t receive your tractor yet or I would have suggested leaving it with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You didn’t say that you didn’t receive your tractor yet or I would have suggested leaving it with them.
Well, in fairness, this is all a moving scale here

I pick up trailer Wednesday
Pick up tractor Thursday
Use tractor Friday for something I either have to do or pay someone else to do before I leave
Sat - park it somewhere
Sun 6am - leave the country

So, yeah, kind of a tight schedule

That said, I just found out today the tractor, loader and bush hog are here - but literally nothing else is
 

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Can you leave the tractor and trailer at a neighbors house?
 

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I would leave the tractor on the trailer and block the front end up and remove the front wheels, then block the trailer axles and remove the wheels. Kingpin lock may also help.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Can you leave the tractor and trailer at a neighbors house?
No, part of this whole problem is we live in one of those screwed up neighborhood etc...I want out, FINALLY convinced the wife to move

We don't know any neighbors at the new location yet, but due to SCDOT we are 3 months behind on permits and building
 
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