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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone converted the governor on a P218G engine to a manual cable control? It would seem that if the governor is engaging the throttle linkage, it would be simple enough to control it manually.

I have the usual "engine hunting" after the engine is hot, and it is annoying, but I would rather not have to pull the engine again. Replacing the starter (more than once) has been a "real joy", and I would like to spend some time with the design person that thought that is was a good idea to have to pull the engine to get at the starter.
 

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The governor moves the throttle on the carb while the throttle on the dash stays put, you would have to work the throttle like you were running a race boat to do anything including just driving around.


The onan will run no load at 3600 rpm with under 20% throttle opening. It’s not even making 10hp, to make 18hp at 3600 rpm you need 100% throttle opening, which would probably spin up to 7000 rpm or more, if the valves stay in, when the load is removed. The governor balances the power to the load while maintaining rpm.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Why is the engine hunting? Sounds like that's what needs to be fixed.
I believe that while the governor is causing the problem. It is fine until the engine heats up, but after that the engine idles up and then almost dies - repeatedly - I believe that the problem is caused by the governor. However after Rydpirs comments, my thought on resolving the problem with a quick fix is not workable.

Thank you all for taking the time to reply. If anyone has further thoughts, I am still listening!
 

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It would seem that if the governor is engaging the throttle linkage, it would be simple enough to control it manually.
If you try to manually "control" the governor, you are going to quickly realize how out of control the engine can become and you very likely will cause a catastrophic failure when it over revs. The governor controls how fast the engine runs but it also controls how fast the engine speed can climb so its progressive and not all at once.

I have seen springs and linkages hooked up incorrectly after disassembly or many other things causing issues including damaged or bad springs. I would focus on finding the worn, damaged or incorrectly connected part of the governor on your engine verses trying to manually control it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you try to manually "control" the governor, you are going to quickly realize how out of control the engine can become and you very likely will cause a catastrophic failure when it over revs. The governor controls how fast the engine runs but it also controls how fast the engine speed can climb so its progressive and not all at once.

I have seen springs and linkages hooked up incorrectly after disassembly or many other things causing issues including damaged or bad springs. I would focus on finding the worn, damaged or incorrectly connected part of the governor on your engine verses trying to manually control it.
Thank you for the advice. I give the linkages etc another look. I think that all is as it should be, but it certainly doesn't hurt to look again.
 

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Bob, Because conditions change when the engine warms, I'd say it's internal to the engine and not a linkage or spring issue. I've never worked on a 318 or a P218 engine, so I can't say it' the "XXX". I HAVE read posts about the flyball spacer being damaged through use though. Sorry to say, but engine will need to be removed and opened up as this flyball governor assembly is on the end of the camshaft near the flywheel. From the parts catalog:
785077

I have seen pics posted of spacer, item 5, being split, but unsure of engine! Open 'er up and see whatcha got. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bob, Because conditions change when the engine warms, I'd say it's internal to the engine and not a linkage or spring issue. I've never worked on a 318 or a P218 engine, so I can't say it' the "XXX". I HAVE read posts about the flyball spacer being damaged through use though. Sorry to say, but engine will need to be removed and opened up as this flyball governor assembly is on the end of the camshaft near the flywheel. From the parts catalog:
View attachment 785077
I have seen pics posted of spacer, item 5, being split, but unsure of engine! Open 'er up and see whatcha got. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the reply. I have had the engine torn down to the point where I could inspect the flyballs, spider, and flyball cup. On visual inspection they all looked OK. It is hard to tell if the "balls are the right diameter, or worn down. I would take the engine out again if I could get new parts, but it seems that the parts are no longer available. You have to go to someone like Jack's Small Engines for used parts, and that means taking a chance. I really do not want to do that.
 

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‘69 JD 140 14hp Kohler ‘69 Chevy C20 292 I6 ‘88 JD 318 18hp Onan
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Bob, I just joined the discussion and I’m wondering what you ended up doing. I have a 318 with the same issue. What I’ve learned from different sources is that the flyball spacer (after it’s warmed up) starts to spin on the cam gear. I believe it was a pressed fit part and there were no physical parts to keep it turning the same speed as the cam. There are replacements that will do the trick if you haven’t figured it out.
 

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Hondova, Bob and those following this thread,

There is no possibility of the spacer flyweight balls being worn enough to impact governor performance. Here is an illustration that I have put together to show some approaches to address a slipping spacer that is still intact (not broken into several pieces...) as long as you have a cam gear that has the notch in it. It is my understanding that only the very early cam gears are missing that notch...
Automotive tire Light Wheel Bicycle part Gear


Just to be complete, I should note that the ball spacing and number used is determined by the "nominal speed" of the engine application. The locations/spacing for 3600 (5 ball), 3000 (6 ball) and 1800 RPM (eight ball) governed speeds are shown below. All of these configurations will support an added pawl if that is needed to prevent slipping...
White Rim Font Automotive wheel system Auto part


Chuck
 
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