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After thinking about it for the last couple of years I am finally building a grapple. I have the time now since I retired a couple of months ago. I've googled and searched through GTT and TBN to try to steal, er I mean learn how others have done it. The grapple frame is the 3" angle iron quick attach frame I built for forks. I'll still be able to use forks with the frame by unbolting the bottom bracket to put the forks back on. Most of the steel is 1/4".

Using the below material. Waiting on the hoses and fittings to be delivered.

hyd. cylinder: Prince Manufacturing W200060-S Wolverine Tie Rod Cylinder, 2" Bore x 6" Stroke, 1 1/8" Diameter, 2500 psi, Chrome Plated $75

diverter valve: Chief Stackable Solenoid & Manual Operated Circuit Selector Valves: 14 @ 3045 PSI GPM, SAE 8 Port Size, 5000 PSI, 220934 $145

hoses: Northern Tools (4) 4' 3/8" in addition to using the current curl hoses

hyd fittings: Discount hydraulics

Grapple handle: Replace stock hydraulic control handle with 1/2" bent tube with bolts (1/4" holes drilled for wires) welded into each end and use a JD knob with a momentary switch. Copied off of Dirtrod.

This is what it looks like so far.

Andy
 

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:thumbup1gif: I like it.
 

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I love threads like these. I'm planning on buying a new welder very soon but I need to win the lottery to buy all of the other fabricating equipment I want. Like a good band saw and a plasma cutter that would cut 1/4- 3/4" steel effortlessly and clean. Very interested on how this turns out and I don't care if you paint it or not.
 

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Show us the whole setup. I am interested in a dirvertor. Looks good so from. What size trzctor is it.:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I posted this in another thread but in case someone doesn't see it there. If anyone is interested in hydraulic valves, cylinders, fittings, hoses, etc. there is a Halloween sale going on at baileyhydraulics. 30% off plus free shipping if you use the code treat16 at checkout. If I had this when I bought my valve and cylinder a couple of weeks ago it would have saved me about $45.
 

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before you paint it, get some Ospho and treat the bare metal. You will add years of useable life by preventing corrosion and this stuff dries to a paintable surface. Put a coat of red primer over it and then the JD green. DO NOT apply this where it can contact your cement slab! If you do get it on concrete, mix up some baking soda and water to counteract it.
You can get it at the local ACE hardware and many other supply places.
Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947
 

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before you paint it, get some Ospho and treat the bare metal. You will add years of useable life by preventing corrosion and this stuff dries to a paintable surface. Put a coat of red primer over it and then the JD green. DO NOT apply this where it can contact your cement slab! If you do get it on concrete, mix up some baking soda and water to counteract it.
You can get it at the local ACE hardware and many other supply places.
Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947
I've never used that before. Does it go on like paint?
 

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I've never used that before. Does it go on like paint?[/QUOTE

Remove slag from your welds. Remove any loose rust/scale down to bare metal, but a light film of surface rust actually helps the chemical process.

Pour some ospho (full strength) in a spray bottle. Old 409 bottles, generic spray bottles available at hardware stores, etc etc. This stuff is a weak acid, so make sure you're upwind to keep it off of you and your safety glasses. It will etch the lenses on some glasses. Keep it off concrete. Spray it on all bare metal and allow it to dry for like 24 hrs. If some gets on painted portions it will be OK. Just don't get it on paint that's not going to be covered up later. You can also use a paint brush if you feel like dealing with it, and you'll want to throw that brush away when done.

It will dry to a black/gray color and some places will have some loose white dust. Ospho uses the light surface rust and converts it to a rust-proof paintable surface. Wipe/brush away any loose material/dust before applying primer, but you don't have to be really thorough with it. I usually hit it with a clean hand-held wire brush, blow it off with compressed air and call it good. No need for precision here.

There are good instructions on the container as well.

Since 1947---I notice a LOT of the really good products I use were developed back in the day. Back when America was strong and self-sufficient. Instead of "I can't" it was "I can, I will, and I dare anybody to say otherwise." My parents and grandparents truly were of the "Greatest Generation."
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've never used that before. Does it go on like paint?[/QUOTE

Remove slag from your welds. Remove any loose rust/scale down to bare metal, but a light film of surface rust actually helps the chemical process.

Pour some ospho (full strength) in a spray bottle. Old 409 bottles, generic spray bottles available at hardware stores, etc etc. This stuff is a weak acid, so make sure you're upwind to keep it off of you and your safety glasses. It will etch the lenses on some glasses. Keep it off concrete. Spray it on all bare metal and allow it to dry for like 24 hrs. If some gets on painted portions it will be OK. Just don't get it on paint that's not going to be covered up later. You can also use a paint brush if you feel like dealing with it, and you'll want to throw that brush away when done.

It will dry to a black/gray color and some places will have some loose white dust. Ospho uses the light surface rust and converts it to a rust-proof paintable surface. Wipe/brush away any loose material/dust before applying primer, but you don't have to be really thorough with it. I usually hit it with a clean hand-held wire brush, blow it off with compressed air and call it good. No need for precision here.

There are good instructions on the container as well.

Since 1947---I notice a LOT of the really good products I use were developed back in the day. Back when America was strong and self-sufficient. Instead of "I can't" it was "I can, I will, and I dare anybody to say otherwise." My parents and grandparents truly were of the "Greatest Generation."

Before I read your message I already picked it Ospho from Ace Hardware and applied. I like the idea of using a spray bottle but had already used a sponge brush. It worked our good I think. Primer going on tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finished up the grapple today. Works great. The hardest part seems to be finding a way to make sure the hoses can't get hung up on something no matter what position the FEL is in. I used 3/8" hoses 4' long to go from the diverter valve to the QC bracket and from the QC bracket to the cylinder. I had to remove the bucket level indicator so I welded a bent rod onto the indicator bracket so the hoses could easily move. I still need to work on securing the hoses to the cylinder. I would have built this a little differently if I had to purchase all the steel. But, I already had almost all of it and didn't have to purchase much. I did want it to be as light as possible but still capable of carrying anything I wanted. I may need to beef it up in the future.
 

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First rate!
 
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