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I have a 485A backhoe coming in a few days :good2:

I found the operators manual on the JD website and looking at its grease requirements JD recommends HD Moly Grease. Of course this is different than my tractor and loader which I use the JD recommended SD Polyurea Grease, I also use this grease in all my trailer wheel bearings, tie rods end, ball joints, etc as this grease is GC-LB (chassis & bearing) rated. Makes things simple.

I would really prefer to use a single grease for everything, not sure if that is possible with the moly requirements of the backhoe.

Any ideas?
 

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OMLVU23696_E0

The manual actually gives a lengthy list of applicable greases for use starting with the (preferred) moly grease you mention-however it goes on to list JD multipurpose grease as an equivalent. IMHO JD Poly grease is great stuff and easily surpasses the multipurpose properties so should be completely safe to use on your new BH. Use with no worries and enjoy the net toy.... errrr... TOOL!
 
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I don’t have a backhoe but I use the poly for everything. It is a very high rated grease with great test numbers. It should be fine. I use it on my loader as do many of the members here, same kind of work and pressures.
 

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I think the main issue is not whether the polyurea grease is suitable for the purpose, but whether it is compatible with the moly grease already present such that mixing the two doesn't precipitate the base oils out of the soap, leaving you with effectively no lubrication at all. In my 30 second Googling of grease compatibility I could not find anything regarding polyurea compatibility with molybdenum. I ain't no tribologist, so that's probably b/c I don't know what the chemistry of moly grease is actually called.

You're going to be looking for something like this. I note that polyurea is incompatible with almost every other grease on this chart.

Al
 

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Right or wrong...I use the JD polyura grease on everything. Even using the wrong grease frequently is better than no grease LOL
 

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I will just toss this out there as general wisdom. It may help you in deciding what grease you want to use where.

The Moly in Moly Grease is typically Molybdenum disulfide. This is that black type of grease that is hard to get off your hands. Now in most applications that recommend it, there is something about the properties of this grease that could make it better than other types of grease. While any grease is better than no grease, one could also argue that there is a reason there is more than one option when it comes to grease.

In a back hoe application and one could argue that a FEL is probably a similar application, there are a few properties that make Moly Grease the preferred grease. For instance, molybdenum disulfide is used as a solid lubricant and a high-pressure high-temperature (HPHT) antiwear agent. It forms strong films on metallic surfaces and is a common additive to HPHT greases — in the event of a catastrophic grease failure, a thin layer of molybdenum prevents contact of the lubricated parts.

It is added at times to graphite. It works well at providing lubrication under heavy loads. So those flex points/pins on something like a BH or FEL. While traditional grease can get pushed out of the way so you still have metal to metal contact, this is less likely with grease that contains higher % of molybdenum disulfide.

Ultimately it is your piece of a equipment. I have lots of things around that have grease zerks. I tend to go with what the engineer that designed the product tells me to go with. Does it suck having to deal with multiple grease types? Sure, it would be easier to just have one. But you know, grease doesn't go bad. If it is something that gets lots of use like repacking the wheel bearings on the camper and other trailers, well I have a pneumatic grease gun for that and buy the stuff by the case. When it comes to applications that get a shot here and there every month or so, then I pick up two tubes of it. One in a dedicated grease gun that has been marked so I know what it is, and one spare for when I am half way through greasing something and run out.

I normally buy a nice grease gun like this Lincoln Lubrication but there are cheaper clones for about half the money.

In the case of motorcycles I have a few bikes and one of the weak points on one of mine is the spline where the rear wheel attaches to the final drive. Too many people don't use the proper grease which calls for at least a grease containing 80% molybdenum disulfide. Well after about 50K miles they are finding the splines worn. Well you can replace the spline on the rear wheel for about $100 but in the process of wearing out it also damages the final drive side. That is a little more expensive at closer to $1200. They were using grease, just not the right kind thinking any old grease will be fine. I can buy a small tube which gets applied by a cheap tooth brush (so no gun even needed) anytime the rear wheel is off for a tire, brake job or anything else. I think I can buy a tube for $15 that lasts for 100 applications easy.
 

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OMLVU23696_E0

The manual actually gives a lengthy list of applicable greases for use starting with the (preferred) moly grease you mention-however it goes on to list JD multipurpose grease as an equivalent. IMHO JD Poly grease is great stuff and easily surpasses the multipurpose properties so should be completely safe to use on your new BH. Use with no worries and enjoy the net toy.... errrr... TOOL!
Interesting that the manual you linked to (for the 375 backhoe) has many more grease options than the newer 375A, 385A and my 485A manual OMLVU34840

The 375 Backhoe manual says you can use these (however none of these JD greases appear available any longer)

• John Deere Moly High Temperature EP Grease.
• John Deere High Temperature EP Grease.
• John Deere GREASE-GARD™.
Other greases may be used are:
• SAE Multipurpose EP Grease with 3 to 5 percent molybdenum disulfide.
• SAE Multipurpose EP Grease.


The 375A/385A/485A manual says:

John Deere HD Moly Grease is preferred.
Other greases may be used if they meet the following: NLGI Performance Classification GC-LB with 3–5% molybdenum disulfide


I currently use the JD Polyurea grease (with my recently acquired 18V Milwaukee cordless grease gun with Lock-n-Lube!! :bigthumb::bigthumb: I should have bought this years ago :good2: )as it is called out in the H180 FEL and 4044R manual as the preferred grease, and is the factory fill grease for these, plus I can use it for wheel bearings, ball joints, etc..

I would have assumed that grease suitable for a FEL would be the same for a Backhoe, but for whatever reason JD seems to think otherwise. Not sure if it because of possible 'shock loading' on a Backhoe vs a FEL?

I found a 70 page JD Oil & Grease guide from Oct 2015 that goes into some detail on all their current greases (and oils, coolants, etc) which has some interesting info. I'll attach that. Not sure which way to go.

-steve
 

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Thanks

Steve,
Thanks for the JD Oil Pub. It is very helpful and I must admit I'm one who has followed JD advise!
Leo
 

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I have a 485A backhoe coming in a few days :good2:

I found the operators manual on the JD website and looking at its grease requirements JD recommends HD Moly Grease. Of course this is different than my tractor and loader which I use the JD recommended SD Polyurea Grease, I also use this grease in all my trailer wheel bearings, tie rods end, ball joints, etc as this grease is GC-LB (chassis & bearing) rated. Makes things simple.

I would really prefer to use a single grease for everything, not sure if that is possible with the moly requirements of the backhoe.

Any ideas?
I've been using John Deere High-temperature, extreme-pressure grease, TY6333 for over 30 years for everything tractor related.

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/8180_fb_GreaseSpecialMultiPurpose.htm#_Special-Purpose_HD_Lithium
 
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I use SuperLube with PTFE. It's the same as the Multi Purpose Extreme Duty Synthetic Grease on page 25 of the JD oil guide linked earlier and is referenced in the owners manual for my 2038R as the preferred grease for all grease points on the chassis. I've been using it for years in drive line and suspension components on offroad vehicles and high performance cars. I like that I never get separation of the base oils, it doesn't stain and I've never seen it break down within the service interval of the parts I've used it on.
 
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When I bought my 375A I just bought a second grease gun and the recommended grease.

I need to use what brain cells I have to learn how to use the backhoe properly. No sense wasting them learning grease chemistry.
 

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When I bought my 375A I just bought a second grease gun and the recommended grease.

I need to use what brain cells I have to learn how to use the backhoe properly. No sense wasting them learning grease chemistry.
Well said. The cost of the right grease and another grease gun is much less that the brain damage spent second guessing an engineer who knows grease and would have been more popular if he/she had just specified the more common grease.
 

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When I bought my 375A I just bought a second grease gun and the recommended grease.

I need to use what brain cells I have to learn how to use the backhoe properly. No sense wasting them learning grease chemistry.
Took the words right outta my mouth! You guys are amazing and appreciate and learn allot from your posts !
I don't sleep well enough already without processing grease attributes after a 300am pee trip...:lol:

But. going to take a moment to see what I'm using...Thx.
 
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