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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I've read the threads on GTT a search turned up and I think I should be coming at the main drive shaft from above to make access easier based on what I've read, but how does one turn the flywheel on the engine to align the zerks?? I had the mower off after finishing and decided that with 22 hours (99% of it mowing) I should grease the tractor. Got the two on the steering easy, 4wd shaft easy by just having the tractor in neutral and rolling it. Three on the auto connect PTO by putting the PTO selector to the rear PTO. Then can spin the Mid PTO by hand. I tried to turn the main drive shaft by hand and no luck. Tried to turn the flywheel from underneath the tractor and no luck there either. What's the secret??
 

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I bump the starter until it lines up with the access hole and grease it from underneath.
 

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I think I remember reading a post on GTT that there are a few 13mm bolts on the flywheel. Putting a wrench on one will give you a little more leverage to turn the flywheel. Just turn in a tightening direction. I didn't get a chance to find that post (sorry).

I was able to muscle my flywheel by hand when I greased mine.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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Just a good grip on the flywheel and turn it slowly.
 
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One hand on the flywheel and one on the shaft works good.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I'll have to experiment some more. The rest were easy, although I did not find a zerk on the front axle pivot. Dealer will be here in an hour to change hydraulic hose on steering cylinder so I may ask them as well.
 

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I put a screwdriver into the gap where the joint is and turn the shaft with the screwdriver as leverage so the rear grease fitting is pointed down. This lines up the front fitting with the hole. Very easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got some ideas to try on main drive shaft

Talked with service guy about the zerks on the main drive shaft when he was here replacing the steering hose. It was the head service guy that came out and he said in the shop they just start/stop the engine until the zerks line up with the access holes underneath. We also noticed after the hose was replaced that the left front tire is dangerously close to hitting the port on the steering cylinder. Service guy said Deere actually has a DTAC for that issue and the fix is to install a sticky back lead square so that the tractor can't turn as far to the left and have the tire hit the cylinder. Guess it's only an issue on 1 series tractors with R4 tires.

He also mentioned that they don't recommend putting a screwdriver through the yoke (sorry fuelhog) as too many people have broken the yoke trying to turn the drive shaft. Does the key need to be on to turn the flywheel?? I tried this evening to turn the flywheel again and no luck.
 

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I think I remember reading a post on GTT that there are a few 13mm bolts on the flywheel. Putting a wrench on one will give you a little more leverage to turn the flywheel. Just turn in a tightening direction. I didn't get a chance to find that post (sorry).

I was able to muscle my flywheel by hand when I greased mine.

Just my 2 cents.
It was I who discovered the magic 13mm bolt heads inside the flywheel.:good2: It beat trying to heave the engine over by hand by far and the hit 'n miss of the starter by "way far". The wrench allows one to see up "through the little tiny hole" and easily line that little bugger right up.

"Seasons Greasings"!:laugh:
 

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Talked with service guy about the zerks on the main drive shaft when he was here replacing the steering hose. It was the head service guy that came out and he said in the shop they just start/stop the engine until the zerks line up with the access holes underneath. We also noticed after the hose was replaced that the left front tire is dangerously close to hitting the port on the steering cylinder. Service guy said Deere actually has a DTAC for that issue and the fix is to install a sticky back lead square so that the tractor can't turn as far to the left and have the tire hit the cylinder. Guess it's only an issue on 1 series tractors with R4 tires.

He also mentioned that they don't recommend putting a screwdriver through the yoke (sorry fuelhog) as too many people have broken the yoke trying to turn the drive shaft. Does the key need to be on to turn the flywheel?? I tried this evening to turn the flywheel again and no luck.
Geez give me a break . I'm not talking about taking a 2 foot screwdriver and beating it with a 5 pound sledge to turn the shaft lol. A reasonable person with some mechanical ability should be able to use this method safely.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Geez give me a break . I'm not talking about taking a 2 foot screwdriver and beating it with a 5 pound sledge to turn the shaft lol. A reasonable person with some mechanical ability should be able to use this method safely.
Yeah I know. Not sure one could get much more than a screw driver in there anyway
 

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The only resistance to rotation on the flywheel is cylinder compression (OK, maybe some mechanical drag). As one turns the flywheel (whatever method) you can feel the resistance build up. Wait a second or two for the compression to bleed down and proceed again, repeat until aligned.

(Be sure to remove the wrench (13mm or Stilson), screw driver or brake spoon from the universal or driveshaft after greasing and don't run over the hammer!):thumbup1gif:
 

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So far every time I have greased it it was already perfectly aligned for me. Now just don't ask me how many times I've greased it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I actually had to go back to work this week after two plus weeks off. Won't get to try again till this weekend
 

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Relieving engine compression

Would the flywheel be easier to turn if you open the valve that releases the hydrostatic drive pressure when you want to push the tractor? (I'm still waiting for my 1025R, so I can't try this.)
 

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Would the flywheel be easier to turn if you open the valve that releases the hydrostatic drive pressure when you want to push the tractor? (I'm still waiting for my 1025R, so I can't try this.)
If you want to push a 1025r, you just shift it into neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you want to push a 1025r, you just shift it into neutral.
Correct, but that only spins the 4wd shaft which makes greasing it a piece of cake. Planning on trying the 13 mm wrench method and some muscle on the flywheel to see if I can turn the main shaft.
 

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When I greased mine, I just manhandled the flywheel and driveshaft bare handed from below; no tools were needed. It was only a 1/16th of a turn at a time, but it wasn't bad at all. Though had I needed to rotate the shaft more than 1/4 turn, starting and stopping the tractor would have been quicker.

However you end up doing it, making sure it is done is the proper method.
 

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Correct, but that only spins the 4wd shaft which makes greasing it a piece of cake...
The point is that there is no hydrostatic valve to release, not that neutral would allow the flywheel to turn freely.
 
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