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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a hard time figuring out how to get to the center zerk on the drive shaft of the snow blower. It's attached to my tractor and I have removed the shaft from the tractor to get to the zeros on the end, but can't get the cent zerk to show in the cut out area of the plastic shroud. It seems to be too close to the end that is attached to the blower. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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A photo might help. Model of blower? Front or 3 point mount? I have the front mount 47" blower and I don't have any center zerk on my drive shaft.

Give us a bit more info and we will be able to solve your issue.

Steve
 

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You're always better off lubricating the u-joints before installing the snowblower or any other attachment or implement. You're better able to rotate or flex the joint to adequately expose the zerk fitting.

As far as lubricating it in place make sure you're using a small diameter zerk coupler. You can alternate the pto selector to a allow the driveshaft to easily rotate by hand, opening up access to the zerk fitting as well.
 

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Very good. I'll try going to the rear PTO setting and rotating the snow blower by hand to see if I see the center Zerk under the plastic. I've never had the front mount 47 inch snow blower removed so I am trying to grease it on the tractor if possible. I did remove the drive shaft from the PTO to get to the end zeros. I agree about the small diameter coupler. I tried one of the locking type and it was too big for most of the drive train zerk areas.
 

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A photo might help. Model of blower? Front or 3 point mount? I have the front mount 47" blower and I don't have any center zerk on my drive shaft.

Give us a bit more info and we will be able to solve your issue.

Steve
Thanks for helping. It's a front mount 47 inch blower I bought with a 2018 tractor in early 2019. The manual shows a center zerk on the drive shaft, but doesn't show how to get to it. They have the plastic shroud removed on the illustration in the manual. I have never taken the blower off of the machine since I only use it for snow removal here in the mountains.
 

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Very good. I'll try going to the rear PTO setting and rotating the snow blower by hand to see if I see the center Zerk under the plastic. I've never had the front mount 47 inch snow blower removed so I am trying to grease it on the tractor if possible. I did remove the drive shaft from the PTO to get to the end zeros. I agree about the small diameter coupler. I tried one of the locking type and it was too big for most of the drive train zerk areas.
You have to rotate the joints bending the connection for a few of them. What year is the blower tractor? Just don't put in to much grease, otherwise they can lock the joints on certain years. Then you must remove the zerk to let out the excess grease to free it up. Usually happens at a double cardan joint, not on a regular universal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You have to rotate the joints bending the connection for a few of them. What year is the blower tractor? Just don't put in to much grease, otherwise they can lock the joints on certain years. Then you must remove the zerk to let out the excess grease to free it up. Usually happens at a double cardan joint, not on a regular universal.
Hi, The snowblower was delivered on my tractor. It's a 2018 that was delivered early in 2019. The snow blower is a front mount 47 inch. Thanks for the tip about not putting in too much grease!
 

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If you remove the drive shaft from the tractor and the shaft from the blower it is much easier to grease them. Now if you do remove them when you put them back make sure you time the u-joints or you may induce a vibration when running the blower. If you have run the blower and not had a vibration problem they are probably timed. To time you have 4 universals 2 on each shaft. On each joint one u-joint side end is welded to the shaft. Call this the fixed half of the joint. Put the the shaft on the tractor first. Then when you put the shaft on the blower make sure the fixed ends of the two shafts are at 90 degrees from each other.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Steve
[/QUOTE]
Thanks so much for all of this information. I didn't know anything about the timing. In the past two years of home use, it's been fine with no vibrations. This will get me where I need to be to get this middle zerk greased. I've only got about 8 hours total on the blower, so hopefully I'm ahead of it's need for grease.
 

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If you remove the drive shaft from the tractor and the shaft from the blower it is much easier to grease them. Now if you do remove them when you put them back make sure you time the u-joints or you may induce a vibration when running the blower. If you have run the blower and not had a vibration problem they are probably timed. To time you have 4 universals 2 on each shaft. On each joint one u-joint side end is welded to the shaft. Call this the fixed half of the joint. Put the the shaft on the tractor first. Then when you put the shaft on the blower make sure the fixed ends of the two shafts are at 90 degrees from each other.

Steve
Steve - I never k ee this...and it seems the last 3 years my snowblower seems to girate a bit when it is in the 'UP' position.....I wonder if that is why?

So, are you saying that once the tractor drive shaft is installed.....I want to hand turn the snowblower shaft until I can install the blower u joint as close to a 90° orientation as possible to the tractor u joint?
 

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Yes that is correct. The U-joint part that is welded to the drive shafts should be at 90* to each other.

If you notice the U-joints on either shaft are welded 90* to each other to prevent vibration when under power. And the vibration gets worse as the angle between the two d-hafts increases. So in the up position the vibration (your wobble) would be more noticeable. There is a video on the i-net somewhere that shows this. If I can find it I'll post a link.

Found it

Steve
 

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Yes that is correct. The U-joint part that is welded to the drive shafts should be at 90* to each other.

If you notice the U-joints on either shaft are welded 90* to each other to prevent vibration when under power. And the vibration gets worse as the angle between the two d-hafts increases. So in the up position the vibration (your wobble) would be more noticeable. There is a video on the i-net somewhere that shows this. If I can find it I'll post a link.

Found it

Steve
Thanks so much, Steve! I will check out the video....I am so glad you posted this. I just added a 60 inch plow to my arsenal and have that loaded on right now to try it on our next snow....but have the main drive shaft installed should I want or need to switch to my blower for a heavier snow.....I will be sure to get the shafts properly aligned if I swap back to my blower. Thanks again! Have a great Wednesday!
 
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