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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, the title says it all. I grew up around on a farm in MN with green all around me. I've driven everything from 4020 to a 9510RT. But now... I have my own! Bought a 2025R with 62D mmm and H130 FEL. Also got the hyd mower lift with the diverter valve.

Unfortunately, this is the only pic I have... just minutes after it arrived and minutes before it was put to work! I cut down an old willow tree that day. In all, 8 trees have met their doom with the help of this guy. More yard clean up and projects to come.

No other attachments as of yet but because of this site I'm about to pull the trigger on a BXpanded Piranha tooth bar and Ken's bolt-on hooks for the loader.
 

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:wgtt:

Nice looking :greentractorride:
 

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Senior GTT Super Slacker
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Thanks DeereNC :thumbup1gif: Let us know what ya think of it.
 

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Congrats on the new tractor!
 

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Welcome from West Virginia, enjoy


:wgtt:
 

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Very nice machine!
 

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CONGRATS!!! New tractor! :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:

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Welcome from New York.
 

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Cool..... Another 2 series " cool" guy! Congrats on your tractor!

I am not the safety police....and your being around tractors all your life, I am sure you know this. So ... I'm just going to re-iterate this for those getting ready to buy a new tractor and reading this thread.

All tractors need rear ballast to counter the front end loader, but most especially these small ones. It doesn't take lifting much weight with the FEL to raise the rear wheels off the ground if there is no rear ballast. Remember, your tractor is basically a 3 wheeler as it pivots in the center of the front axle . So when the rear wheels come off the ground , the tractor can flop to one side or the other. You can actually turn a tractor over onto its side, sitting on flat ground .Make sure you have enough rear ballast to lift to maximum capacity, as well as take pressure off the smaller front axle.

It sort of helps to imagine the tractor with FEL as a teeter/totter. You need the weight behind the rear wheels to make the rear axle the fulcrum. Loaded tires are great but if that is all the ballast you have, then your fulcrum is still the front axle. Best to look in the owners manual to see what JD recommends for your tractor



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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Cool..... Another 2 series " cool" guy! Congrats on your tractor!

I am not the safety police....and your being around tractors all your life, I am sure you know this. So ... I'm just going to re-iterate this for those getting ready to buy a new tractor and reading this thread.

All tractors need rear ballast to counter the front end loader, but most especially these small ones. It doesn't take lifting much weight with the FEL to raise the rear wheels off the ground if there is no rear ballast. Remember, your tractor is basically a 3 wheeler as it pivots in the center of the front axle . So when the rear wheels come off the ground , the tractor can flop to one side or the other. You can actually turn a tractor over onto its side, sitting on flat ground .Make sure you have enough rear ballast to lift to maximum capacity, as well as take pressure off the smaller front axle.

It sort of helps to imagine the tractor with FEL as a teeter/totter. You need the weight behind the rear wheels to make the rear axle the fulcrum. Loaded tires are great but if that is all the ballast you have, then your fulcrum is still the front axle. Best to look in the owners manual to see what JD recommends for your tractor



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They do indeed! The rear tires are fluid filled (with what I'm unsure) and I do plan on acquiring a ballast box should I start needing to use the max capacity of the loader. So far I've only been hauling sticks and logs. I've pondered the idea of building a rack to hold old JD tractor weights from a 4840 we used to have... would require a trip to MN though. Nice thing is I would be able to ballast for the task at hand w/o causing excessive compaction on my yard.

The loader on our 4440 (RIP last fall, fire... story of another time) actually saved my brother from a complete roll over. He was baling county ditches and a farmer had went in the fall before and scraped it, leaving a 6" or so ledge. He was weaving back n forth (bale uniformity) at the front tire slipped off. The loader had been all the way up so he could see the front of the tractor vs his swath. Had it not been, the cab would have gotten crushed. Some would say if the loader was down, it wouldn't have happened but it's hard to really say.


--DeereNC
 

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:hi::wgtt:

Welcome from the top of Maine! A few of us guys here have 2320's............which is basically the same tractor you have. I love my tractor........and you will too!
 

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They do indeed! The rear tires are fluid filled (with what I'm unsure) and I do plan on acquiring a ballast box should I start needing to use the max capacity of the loader. So far I've only been hauling sticks and logs.
Just remember that the rear of your new machine is very light (all aluminum) compared to the larger machines your used to. To effectively ballast the machine the weight must be place behind the rear axle. While loaded tires are great for traction, its not all that's needed for loader ballast.
 
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