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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A neighbor is selling their GX255. It is in mint condition, with about 400 hours on it. I am unfamiliar with John Deeres in general, but I have been trying to do a little research. Is it worth it for $1800? There are similarly specced big-box Cub Cadets around here that go for $900, and they're only a few years old. I have about 3 acres of grass to cut. Thank you for any feedback.
 

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Just my view but I'd expect a GX255 in "mint" condition with 400 hours to run in the $2500 range. If someone near me were selling it for $1800, I'd have bought it already.

Just for reference, there are currently 2 GX255s on Machine Finder. One has 732 hours (and a snowblower) and they want $2995 for it. The other has 451 hours on it and they want $2395.
 

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Make sure the motor and trans are good. If they are, great deal. Take it!
 

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You would be much happier over the long haul with that John Deere. The used Cubs in that price range are usually not a tractor in great shape or trouble free.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you!

Is there anything I should look out for? It moves nimbly forward and reverse. No funny noises. The engine had a tiny bit of smoke for the first 2 seconds, but I read that is normal for this Kawasaki engine. Blades felt locked when the machine was off (a good thing, means the blade braking system is working). Deck seems to engage and cut properly. Power steering works.

Stupid question perhaps, but how can I be sure both cylinders are firing?
 

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Great tractor. Price seems high to me. I almost bought a mint GX255, 54-inch deck with 200 hours for $2,500 6 years - 2 days ago. It was located 6 hours one-way from me and by the time I worked out transportation, it sold and I settled for an abused GX345. The GX255 was on the market for about a month before it sold.

Obviously, local markets vary significantly in price but I think it's a little high and the spring buying frenzy should be coming to an end. I also agree that you'll be happier with the Deere vs. a Cub.
 

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Yes that is a decent Price for a GX255(made for the 2004 & 2005 Model Year only)with 400Hrs Basically is a GT245 with Power steering and a Liquid cooled engine Basically replaced the GX325 during it's two years of Production

I Bought a 2004 GX335 In 2016 On ebay for $2,500 In 2016 from a JD dealer ended up getting it for $2,100 when I went to pick it Up Because I didn't want the 54inch deck for it as I was Putting a 42inch deck on it to use to Mow In a area Between My fence and Creek at my old House as I didn't want to spend the Money to put a Bigger Gate in. I now just use it for Mowing a fenced In 1/2acre dog run at my new House
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It sounds Like it should be Just fine for your Intended Purposes of Cutting 3acres of Grass(y)
 

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Thank you!

Is there anything I should look out for? It moves nimbly forward and reverse. No funny noises. The engine had a tiny bit of smoke for the first 2 seconds, but I read that is normal for this Kawasaki engine. Blades felt locked when the machine was off (a good thing, means the blade braking system is working). Deck seems to engage and cut properly. Power steering works.

Stupid question perhaps, but how can I be sure both cylinders are firing?
It would not idle properly and it would struggle to mow any depth of grass properly, plus it would run very "unbalanced" where you would feel a vibration from the one hole not firing. If the machine functions properly, both cylinders are very likely firing and the machine is just fine.

Make sure to find out when the last service was performed on the machine. Chances are the neighbor can tell you exactly. That's sort of how people are who buy good quality equipment and own if for several years.

Cub Cadet makes a decent MOWER, but I wouldn't buy a used Big Box machine for mowing 3 acres. You will be beat to death by the bumpy ride and likely fixing the machine more than you would like.

Snatch this up because if your neighbor advertises its for sale, it will be gone very quickly.........

And stick around on GTT to learn about your machine and how to properly service it. Make sure to get any extra blades or other items your neighbor might have with the machine. Its always good to keep a spare set of sharpened blades handy to keep your machine cutting its best..........Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all for the replies! I have told them that I decided to buy it, and I will be picking it up as soon as they are back home. :)
 

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I picked it up today! Everything seems good, mowed for about an hour, no problems. Is there anything I should do about the transaxle fluid? From what I understand I'd need to pull the whole unit out to properly drain it. What do I refill it with ideally?

Another thing, is the brake supposed to disengage cruise control? The sticker says that, but it doesn't seem to. The only way I can stop the machine while using CC is to pull the cruise lever back to the off position.
 

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That machine has a K71, you do not need to remove it, it is serviceable in-situ. You should replace the filter also. Refill it with JD fluid, I don't recall if it's hygard or a derivative. Do not use ATF, that will cause problems.
 

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That machine has a K71, you do not need to remove it, it is serviceable in-situ. You should replace the filter also. Refill it with JD fluid, I don't recall if it's hygard or a derivative. Do not use ATF, that will cause problems.
Thank you. The manual says "John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD (J20D)". But I googled it, and it seems J20C is best for summer use?
 

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I picked it up today! Everything seems good, mowed for about an hour, no problems. Is there anything I should do about the transaxle fluid? From what I understand I'd need to pull the whole unit out to properly drain it. What do I refill it with ideally?

Another thing, is the brake supposed to disengage cruise control? The sticker says that, but it doesn't seem to. The only way I can stop the machine while using CC is to pull the cruise lever back to the off position.
If the cruise lever is on the right rear fender, I do not think the brake will disengage it. I had an LX280 (about the same vintage) with that setup and I had to pull the cruise lever back to disengage it. The GX maybe different however.
 

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You got a good deal, if the tractor has been evenly marginally maintained. The K71 transmission as a strong one, capable of ground engagement or pulling fairly heavy carts. The brake WILL disengage the cruise control; I have a GT235, which is a model down from the GX 255 and has the same transmission and cruise control arrangement. Tell the truth, I rarely ever use my cruise control, mainly because the lawn I mow has no really long, straight runs where you want a constant ground speed. The cruise control lever can be adjusted for tension, which may affect how easily it is disengaged when you press the brake. You can also disengage it simply by moving the lever. Did the previous owner have the manual? Try to find one, if not. They are still available through JD publications.

The transmission has two drain plugs; there are two interconnected fluid cavities inside the transmission and they have to be drained separately, and also refilled from two locations. The manual recommends only low viscosity Hy-Gard or an equivalent (J20D) transmission oil. The low viscosity is formulated to prevent brake chatter, according to the manual. The recommended change interval is 250 hours, and the transmission holds 4.6 quarts.

Procedure is as follows: DRAIN--Two drain plugs, both M10 cap screws (14mm wrench). Front one drains the hydrostatic transmission side, rear one drains the differential gear side. These plugs will be at the lowest point on each part of the transmission. Remove the fill caps (one under the seat that fills the reservoir, the other on the transmission case below the reservoir) which allows for better drainage. There is no regularly accessible filter to change.
REFILL-- replace and tighten drain screws to 133 inch-pounds torque (15 N-m). Fill the differential side (cap under the reservoir at rear). Takes about 2 qts., and will fill to the bottom of the cap threads. Fill the reservoir next, add until level reaches the FULL line, replace cap. Start engine, check for leaks. Alternate driving forward and backwards several times. Recheck fluid level in reservoir and top off to FULL line if necessary. This all comes out of the GT235 manual, should be the same for your machine. The only real differences between your tractor and mine is, you have a different engine, power steering and powered lift.

Another thing you need to know is there is a lever on the right side inside the right rear tire; if you need to push the machine, you have to push this lever first, it should have a label showing what to do. It releases the hydraulic pressure relief valve to permit rolling the machine without having to start the tractor. When you restart the machine, making sure the lever is back in the run position it will function as normal.

You have three belts to maintain. One goes from crankshaft (the mower PTO is there also) back to the transmission. 2nd belt goes from the PTO at the crankshaft to the mower deck, and 3rd is the belt that turns the blades.
 
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