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Discussion Starter #1
Earlier today my SIL found a washer in the area we were working in yesterday. This am I dropped the bucket and ballast, rugged up the deck, mowed, reversed process. While mounting the bucket again I saw an odd movement and found that the end of the automount frame had come off the arm. I had dropped the frame on an area that was a bit uneven and had only gotten one side in and locked, and almost had the other side done when it happened, so now I have the entire thing on the bucket w/hydraulics loaded and only locked into one side.

Anyway, I did get it back on the stud w/the pin locked into the hole, but I wasn't able to find the nut - and the washer doesn't seem to go anywhere on that stud that I can see. I don't have a nut that will fit, all my local hardware stores as closed, and HD/Lowes doesn't have anything that big.

So, does anyone know:

1) Does that washer go on that stud anywhere or should I go other the entire thing with a fine-toothed comb to see what else may be ready to fall off?

2) What size is that nut? I think it's M13, but not sure.

3) What kind of issues/damage do I risk with it in its current state?
 

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Pictures are everything in threads like this. Can you post a few so we can help?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pictures are everything in threads like this. Can you post a few so we can help?
I only took one and didn't think it would be useful, but here it is, and I can walk over and get a few more in no time if needed...

20190908_165315.jpg
 

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Pictures would REALLY help get an answer :flag_of_truce:
Did you mean H120, not H110? :dunno:

From the drawing in JDparts (if this where you lost the nut) key 11 is M16 flange nut. Key 10 are washers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pictures would REALLY help get an answer :flag_of_truce:
Did you mean H120, not H110? :dunno:

From the drawing in JDparts (if this where you lost the nut) key 11 is M16 flange nut. Key 10 are washers.
<sigh> Yea, H120 - it's even in my sig, so I should get that right...

If I read that right there are 2 washers between the shoulder nut and the mount. On the other side there are NO washers that I can see.

More Pix...


Good side

20190908_181414.jpg


Bad side
20190908_181353.jpg
 

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No worries. I edited the title for a better description. :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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If that were my machine, I would be checking every bolt on the FEL and torquing the bolts to the specs in the manual..........Start with your loader frame mounts and go from there.........

Anything can happen, but either they forgot to tighten that nut or its worked loose. That nut on my tractor has a paint mark on it or a permanent marker, but someone marked it confirming it was torqued.

Since it is a loader part, I would also step up and get the needed hardware from John Deere so the size is right and so the hardware grade is right. Also you want the washer thickness to be correct.

As far as issues and consequences, I wouldn't take the loader off the tractor again until the stand is properly secured. Perhaps if you take the loader on and off frequently it could have worked the nut loose, I only remove my FEL once or maybe twice a year as I don't mow with a MMM, so I only remove the FEL to mount the front quick hitch..........But I would want to know everything is tight as it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If that were my machine, I would be checking every bolt on the FEL and torquing the bolts to the specs in the manual..........Start with your loader frame mounts and go from there.........

Anything can happen, but either they forgot to tighten that nut or its worked loose. That nut on my tractor has a paint mark on it or a permanent marker, but someone marked it confirming it was torqued.

Since it is a loader part, I would also step up and get the needed hardware from John Deere so the size is right and so the hardware grade is right. Also you want the washer thickness to be correct.
Yea, I'll do the torque check after I get this fixed. As for washers, I don't see any on the other side. Am I correct in thinking based on that drawing there should be two under the nut? Because that just doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As far as issues and consequences, I wouldn't take the loader off the tractor again until the stand is properly secured. Perhaps if you take the loader on and off frequently it could have worked the nut loose, I only remove my FEL once or maybe twice a year as I don't mow with a MMM, so I only remove the FEL to mount the front quick hitch..........But I would want to know everything is tight as it should be.
(reply to edit)

Yea, at this point I'm not trying anything until I can get it secured. I swap it on an off a lot. I drop it and the ballast whenever I do the grass since I have to get into some tight places. So, maybe a dozen time a year including maintenance, winter stuff (sometimes you just have to use the loader for snow. What a pita to have to drop the entire snowblower setup to do that...)
 

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I just looked at mine, and I don't have washers on either side, nor any used as spacers/shims in that area. Just pin #13 going through #1, 8 & 9, held by nut #11, which has a paint mark (torqued).

#10 washer may be one of those "As Required" parts. On mine, the threads of pin #13 are barely long enough for the nut to spin on entirely, with maybe 1 thread showing.

The part number for nut #11 is 14M7291.
 

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I bought my loader new and put on the used 2305 I purchased. All my FEL bolts had paint pen lines to indicate they had been torqued. The run down must be done with a hand torque wrench on a torque arm in the factory since it it is ahand drawn line on the nut. With run down fixtures the pen is typically on the run down rig and leave a single dot to show the run down.

Typically in a factory anything over 60 NM torque has some type of an arm that holds the torque wrench witch can be cabled to a controller or uses a battery and is Bluetooth to the controller. Every torque is recorded And filed.
 

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Pictures are everything in threads like this. Can you post a few so we can help?
I only took one and didn't think it would be useful, but here it is, and I can walk over and get a few more in no time if needed...

I thought I was the first to post :flag_of_truce:, BUT my slow typing and going to JDparts for a drawing really slowed me down:flag_of_truce:I ended up with post #4, so there were no pictures posted when I suggested them. It also looks like a Mod fixed the H110 confusion
 

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It looks to me like it has the wrong pin in it. The pins for the parking stand should be longer. The nut is only catching a couple of threads, that is why there are no washers.
 

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It looks to me like it has the wrong pin in it. The pins for the parking stand should be longer. The nut is only catching a couple of threads, that is why there are no washers.
Looks like the threads were stripped off the end of the bolt about the width of a nut … Maybe there were washers but the nut was over tightened and stripped the threads off the bolt … :dunno:

G
 

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It looks to me like it has the wrong pin in it. The pins for the parking stand should be longer. The nut is only catching a couple of threads, that is why there are no washers.
That may be possible for replacement pins, but my 2014 is set up the same way, with original pins. The threads don't stick out very far.


Looks like the threads were stripped off the end of the bolt about the width of a nut … Maybe there were washers but the nut was over tightened and stripped the threads off the bolt … :dunno:

G
The threads aren't stripped. That's the way the pin is. The threads don't start for about a 1/8" or so up the pin. I know, it's odd.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Well, I was able to pick up the nut I needed ($0.53 part) at the dealership. Thankfully the loader and stand seemed fine and I was able to get it re-mounted with a bunch of finagling. I had dropped it in a soft area, and when trying to remount one side locked in (the one with the missing nut) and the other sort of missed the mount to the front on the other side. It took about ten min of very fine work to get it going without stressing the unit too much, but it's back on.

I only put the nut on "tight" for now, just to get everything mounted. The dealership said the torque setting was 230 ft-lbs. This seems high to me for where it's mounted, but I guess it's right? Anybody have the specs for all the stuff on the loader, including the frame mounts? I figured now is as good a time as any to go over it and hit every one...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I guess I'll re-post this...

I have a copy of the D120 / H120 installation instructions, but I can't seem to find the tourque specs for that nut. I could use a general guide but I only know the size (M10), not the grade. Service said 230 ft/lbs, but that just seems crazy. Does anybody have the torque specs for that nut, or preferably the entire rig?
 

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I guess I'll re-post this...

I have a copy of the D120 / H120 installation instructions, but I can't seem to find the tourque specs for that nut. I could use a general guide but I only know the size (M10), not the grade. Service said 230 ft/lbs, but that just seems crazy. Does anybody have the torque specs for that nut, or preferably the entire rig?
The operators manual for my H160 lists the torque for the bolts that are required to be checked.

If yours doesn't list this bolt/nut, maybe you could look up the parts and find out what grade the bolt is, then you could use the general guide to determine the maximum torque recommended.
 

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Well, I was able to pick up the nut I needed ($0.53 part) at the dealership. Thankfully the loader and stand seemed fine and I was able to get it re-mounted with a bunch of finagling. I had dropped it in a soft area, and when trying to remount one side locked in (the one with the missing nut) and the other sort of missed the mount to the front on the other side. It took about ten min of very fine work to get it going without stressing the unit too much, but it's back on.

I only put the nut on "tight" for now, just to get everything mounted. The dealership said the torque setting was 230 ft-lbs. This seems high to me for where it's mounted, but I guess it's right? Anybody have the specs for all the stuff on the loader, including the frame mounts? I figured now is as good a time as any to go over it and hit every one...
What P/N did you get? $.53 sounds WAY too cheap! My dealer prices it at $2.55
Did you get a Flange nut?

The correct nut, is an M16 Flange nut, grade 10.9 maximum torque in tables for dry torque is 255lb-ft.
For an M10, grade 10.9 it's only 59lb-ft.

It is possible the dealer sold you a non flange nut and lesser grade for $.53
 
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