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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to use my box blade this evening, it’s the maiden voyage for it and me also. Never could get the angle right for the box with the quick hitch on. Finally said the heck with it and took it off. Things when much better with the 3ph alone. For you guys that run a quick hitch with your box blade, how do you get enough forward lean? I’m using the to link that came with the tractor but I couldn’t bring it in enough to get the box to lean forward enough for the tines to dig.


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
 

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Trying to use my box blade this evening, it’s the maiden voyage for it and me also. Never could get the angle right for the box with the quick hitch on. Finally said the heck with it and took it off. Things when much better with the 3ph alone. For you guys that run a quick hitch with your box blade, how do you get enough forward lean?
First, be sure that the hitch arms are installed the correct way around. It is fairly common for people to put them on backwards.

I spent about $24 and bought a new top link. I had tweaked the original one, but I don't recall not having enough adjustment fro my BB.
 

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Trying to use my box blade this evening, it’s the maiden voyage for it and me also. Never could get the angle right for the box with the quick hitch on. Finally said the heck with it and took it off. Things when much better with the 3ph alone. For you guys that run a quick hitch with your box blade, how do you get enough forward lean? I’m using the to link that came with the tractor but I couldn’t bring it in enough to get the box to lean forward enough for the tines to dig.


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
Never had that issue, plenty of adjustment forward and backward. While the lean does impact the tines somewhat, what the lean primarily adjusts is whether the front blade is cutting or if leaned back, the rear blade is smoothing. The amount of rip is controlled by how deep the tines are set. I always drop mine at least one sometimes more depending on how compacted the surface is, the raise them back up when i want the blades on the box to be working at cutting/smoothing. I run the Frontier BB2048 w/iMatch QH.

YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter #4
First, be sure that the hitch arms are installed the correct way around. It is fairly common for people to put them on backwards.

I spent about $24 and bought a new top link. I had tweaked the original one, but I don't recall not having enough adjustment fro my BB.
Did you buy a shorter one? I have a shorter one but it was for an old cat 0 setup.


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
 

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I use mine with the quick hitch and don't have a problem with it. adjusting it did take me awhile to figure out I just kept playing with it and reading posts on this forum until I got it right. I have a 2032r don't know if the top link is different then yours but I get plenty of tilt on it
 

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If you don't mind a slight derailment, why do you need a lot of forward lean? I'm new to box blades and have only figured out the basics so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you don't mind a slight derailment, why do you need a lot of forward lean? I'm new to box blades and have only figured out the basics so far.
With the top link all the way closed I would set the box blade on the ground and the box was almost flat but leaned a little back on the rear cutting edge. I lowered the tines more but with how it was setting and because the driveway was pretty compact the tines just would not cut into. After I took the quick hitch off I adjusted the box to lean forward just a bit so that the tip of the tines would dig in. I also noticed that the way my box is built it looks like it’s designed to lean forward a small amount. It worked great after the quick hitch was removed. I wish I had taken pics but darkness was becoming a factor so we were in a hurry.


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Guys I also should have mentioned in my first post that I’m having to use a quick hitch adapter on the box blade for the top hook. So that leans it backwards a little more right there. If I get a shorter top link on the tractor I’m thinking I will be able to adjust for that, right?


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
 

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What make a model box blade do you have??

There should be no difference between attaching an attachment directly to the 3 point arms or on a quick hitch except the attachment will be further away from the tractor by a few inches.

Do you have quick hitch bushings on the lower pins on the box blade and category 3 top link bushings at the box blade end? The quick hitch lower and top hooks are actually category 3 size so you need to use bushings on all the pins when using category 1 attachments.

I agree with some others, lowering the tines is how you get them to engage the ground. Tilting the blade has more to do with the adjustment of the rear cutting edge.

I think pictures are needed!! :good2:
 

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Guys I also would have mentioned in my first post that I’m having to use a quick hitch adapter on the box blade for the top hook. So that leans it backwards a little more right there. If I get a shorter top link on the tractor I’m thinking I will be able to adjust for that, right?


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
What Imatch are you using ,,:dunno:adjust or none adjustable. Guessing none adjustable :dunno:

Mine is adjustable, thinking when I used either rear blade or box blade I had to remove top hook from hitch put the Top Pin in the attachment and then lengthen the top link so I could get the top hook attached to the I match. Worked fine wasn't what I was expecting but it worked and only took maybe 5 mins. and then I could adjust top link to location needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What Imatch are you using ,,:dunno:adjust or none adjustable. Guessing none adjustable :dunno:

Mine is adjustable, thinking when I used either rear blade or box blade I had to remove top hook from hitch put the Top Pin in the attachment and then lengthen the top link so I could get the top hook attached to the I match. Worked fine wasn't what I was expecting but it worked and only took maybe 5 mins. and then I could adjust top link to location needed.
HaulMaster from HF.


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
 

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I had a HF before I bought the Imatch from JD. The top hook can be removed and then top hook and be higher or lower.

So have you tried this .:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had a HF before I bought the Imatch from JD. The top hook can be removed and then top hook and be higher or lower.

So have you tried this .:dunno:
I just finished playing with that actually, I didn’t realize the box blade was already compatible. I didn’t need the top hook adapter. I lowered the hook and put the Box blade on and it fits just fine. Could have saved me 30 mins of heartache yesterday. I won’t need a shorter top link after all. I will need a couple cat2 bushings though for the lower pins.


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
 

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:bigthumb::bigthumb::bigthumb:
 

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Did you buy a shorter one? I have a shorter one but it was for an old cat 0 setup.
Actually, I think the one I bought is a little longer. Still has plenty of range.
 

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They way it connects it won’t accept the bushings.



'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
I don’t understand why not. You may have to use a different style bushing - there are two types I’m aware of. One is designed for the free ( non captured) link pins and has a hole through it for either a roll pin or quick latch pin.

The other is just straight bushing stock intended to be used on the “captured” pin setups like those in your photo. My roto tiller used the captured type, while my box blade has the “ free” pins. The captured design is stronger than the free pin design, but I don’t think that is an issue for 1 series sized attachments.

Just get the right style and size step bushings for the attachment - I was able to find both styles at Tractor Supply.

Looking at the Box blade shown, it looks a lot lighter than my Frontier. Some satchel weights will probably help to get it to bite consistently. I added 4, 42# weights on my Frontier, just dropped them over the flat metal “straps”.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
I don’t understand why not. You may have to use a different style bushing - there are two types I’m aware of. One is designed for the free ( non captured) link pins and has a hole through it for either a roll pin or quick latch pin.

The other is just straight bushing stock intended to be used on the “captured” pin setups like those in your photo. My roto tiller used the captured type, while my box blade has the “ free” pins. The captured design is stronger than the free pin design, but I don’t think that is an issue for 1 series sized attachments.

Just get the right style and size step bushings for the attachment - I was able to find both styles at Tractor Supply.

Looking at the Box blade shown, it looks a lot lighter than my Frontier. Some satchel weights will probably help to get it to bite consistently. I added 4, 42# weights on my Frontier, just dropped them over the flat metal “straps”.
This blade weighs about 310. How much does your frontier weigh?


'17 John Deere 1025R FEL
'16 Cub Cadet Tank SZ 54" cut
(3) 80 Dump Cart
18 Dump Cart
 

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