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Discussion Starter #1
I came across a thread where folks were discussing a new parts list for the 47/54-inch front snow blower that shows a gearbox in place of the existing chain and sprockets. The serial number break looks like 100001- for the 54-inch and 180001- for the 47-inch blower.

These new parts lists are located at the URL shown below. I'm not seeing anything new yet in Parts Advisor.
John Deere Parts Catalog

If you browse the new lists you will also see that they are now listing some individual parts for the auger gear drive. Not everything but it looks like some seals, bearings and a replacement gearbox cover is now available.


Part Number:
AUC11644
Part Price:494.71 USD
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description:Parallel Shaft Gear Drive - PARALLEL SHAFT GEAR DRIVE, ENCLOSED

They are also showing a revised up-stop with a redesigned drive shaft shield and a place to mount a cleaning tool. Although I cannot find any actual part numbers for these items.

 

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Gearbox

Just bought a new gearbox this last week, the pinion bearing races where spinning in the casting, almost looks like it was machined this way, the races fell right out, the ring gear and pinion where showing a lot of chatter on the teeth, the blower has seen a lot of snow and abuse, had a couple of 47s and was able to rebuild them, 610.00 bucks, and the dealer had it on the shelf, they had some preseason discount and knocked off 98.63 off the price, happy with that, I have this on a 1025r and I have some drive train noise, everything is new accept the blower, noise goes away when your under a load, thought it was coming from the gearbox, new gearbox and the noise is still there, carrier bearings are new, but the gearbox on the pto gets warm when running the blower, the noise is really amplified through the cab, still under warranty but can't tie it up right now, any ideas ??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just bought a new gearbox this last week, the pinion bearing races where spinning in the casting, almost looks like it was machined this way, the races fell right out, the ring gear and pinion where showing a lot of chatter on the teeth, the blower has seen a lot of snow and abuse, had a couple of 47s and was able to rebuild them, 610.00 bucks, and the dealer had it on the shelf, they had some preseason discount and knocked off 98.63 off the price, happy with that, I have this on a 1025r and I have some drive train noise, everything is new accept the blower, noise goes away when your under a load, thought it was coming from the gearbox, new gearbox and the noise is still there, carrier bearings are new, but the gearbox on the pto gets warm when running the blower, the noise is really amplified through the cab, still under warranty but can't tie it up right now, any ideas ??
If I understand what you are saying you bought a new auger gearbox for your 47-inch blower? In addition, you say your "PTO gearbox" gets hot? How old is your 47-inch snow blower? Way back when the 47-inch snow blower first came out it had a gearbox driving the impeller. Then they switched to a chain and sprockets and it has been that way for a long time. Now, new parts lists have emerged that seems to indicate they've gone back to having a gearbox driving the impeller.

So what exactly do you have?
 

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John Deere Parts Catalog

They are also showing a revised up-stop with a redesigned drive shaft shield and a place to mount a cleaning tool. Although I cannot find any actual part numbers for these items.

[/QUOTE]John Deere Parts Catalog
This is the beveled gear drive unit replacing the chain drive.
It is upwards of 600 bucks.
My wonder is will you need to replace everything else to upgrade to this? I am sure it is to help aleviate the PTO shaft issue too.
Another retrograde update due to failed designs. UGH!!

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Discussion Starter #5
This is the beveled gear drive unit replacing the chain drive.
It is upwards of 600 bucks.
My wonder is will you need to replace everything else to upgrade to this? I am sure it is to help aleviate the PTO shaft issue too.
Another retrograde update due to failed designs. UGH!!
I looked up the part number for the rear gear box and it is $494. I suspect the new up-stop plate, PTO shield and associated hardware would be equally expensive.

Part Number:
AUC11644
Part Price: 494.71 USD
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description: Parallel Shaft Gear Drive - PARALLEL SHAFT GEAR DRIVE, ENCLOSED

I wouldn't really call the chain and sprockets a failed design. They've been using a chain and sprockets to drive the impeller on the front blower for decades and it has been surprisingly trouble free. Of those that fail a large number can be attributed to lack of proper maintenance.
 

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This is the beveled gear drive unit replacing the chain drive.
It is upwards of 600 bucks.
My wonder is will you need to replace everything else to upgrade to this? I am sure it is to help alleviate the PTO shaft issue too.
Another retrograde update due to failed designs. UGH!!

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Not so sure that the earlier versions are "upgradeable" to the new gearbox but for those who might be maintenance averse this might be a good option.

Personally I've never had a problem with the chain & sprocket drive but I know other's have. Seasonal lubrication and some attention to the chain tension adjustment have been all I've done to keep my SB's running reliably.
 

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Not so sure that the earlier versions are "upgradeable" to the new gearbox but for those who might be maintenance averse this might be a good option.

Personally I've never had a problem with the chain & sprocket drive but I know other's have. Seasonal lubrication and some attention to the chain tension adjustment have been all I've done to keep my SB's running reliably.
Things would be great with a chain set up if they used real sprokets, not hand welded junk. You can tell they are not made by a reputable company as they did not even think to use a jig when welding, to ensure centering before welding.
Also I truely believe if they are changing the setup back it most likely is to try to remedy the PTO issues with the double cardigan joint issues. Either that and/or they are slowly making changes to allow for moving from the quick hitch to the front 3 pt hitch. Maybe someone is finally getting the message that the front hitch and cheapening things is drawing bad publicity to the brand and the bean counters are not to make engineering decisions.
Sorry if this offends anyone, but the squeeky wheel usually (eventually) gets the oil. I agree with HH'S assesment, that there should not be so much garbage on a "high quality machine". We have other color tractors to draw from if we want that kind of thing.

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Things would be great with a chain set up if they used real sprokets, not hand welded junk. You can tell they are not made by a reputable company as they did not even think to use a jig when welding, to ensure centering before welding.
There is no disputing that! Those out of round sprockets are a PITA when adjusting the chain tension.

Also I truely believe if they are changing the setup back it most likely is to try to remedy the PTO issues with the double cardigan joint issues. Either that and/or they are slowly making changes to allow for moving from the quick hitch to the front 3 pt hitch. Maybe someone is finally getting the message that the front hitch and cheapening things is drawing bad publicity to the brand and the bean counters are not to make engineering decisions.
I'm not understanding how the gearbox would change the PTO setup. Currently you have a stub that sticks out of the small sprocket to which the short PTO attaches. With the gearbox you have a short stub that sticks out to which the short PTO attaches. Everything behind the uplift remains the same. It doesn't appear like they are changing anything on the quick hitch. This parts list was actually in the X700 section and X-series, 1-series and Gen-1 2-series can only use the existing quick hitch. They have no option for a front 3PH (especially the X-series).

Remember, they already have that green Rad-Tech front blower that uses an entirely different front attachment method but is currently only available for the 1-series.

It will be interesting to see these changes in person once the new blowers start making their way into the wild.
 

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Things would be great with a chain set up if they used real sprokets, not hand welded junk. You can tell they are not made by a reputable company as they did not even think to use a jig when welding, to ensure centering before welding.
Also I truely believe if they are changing the setup back it most likely is to try to remedy the PTO issues with the double cardigan joint issues.
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I agree that some of the drive pinions have too much radial runout from what I've heard. I've been lucky in that respect as mine (early 47, late 47 and current 54) haven't had the issue as to affect accurate chain adjustment.

As far as the short implement driveshaft and mid-driveshafts with double-cardan joints are concerned I don't don't see those changing if the existing quick hitches are going to be retained.
 

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I agree that some of the drive pinions have too much radial runout from what I've heard. I've been lucky in that respect as mine (early 47, late 47 and current 54) haven't had the issue as to affect accurate chain adjustment.

As far as the short implement driveshaft and mid-driveshafts with double-cardan joints are concerned I don't don't see those changing if the existing quick hitches are going to be retained.
Exactly. For the 1 series, I see that the problematic quick hitch arrangement going away in favor of the 3 pt hitch I understand is now being offered elsewhere. Maybe it was for the 2025R, but not much of a stretch to the sibling 1025R. Makes sense to me, as then they may be able to fix the shaft issues as well. The current quick hitch is not heavy enough, and they know it.

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Exactly. For the 1 series, I see that the problematic quick hitch arrangement going away in favor of the 3 pt hitch I understand is now being offered elsewhere. Maybe it was for the 2025R, but not much of a stretch to the sibling 1025R. Makes sense to me, as then they may be able to fix the shaft issues as well. The current quick hitch is not heavy enough, and they know it.
The Quick Hitch is what attaches the 54" blower to the front of my 2032R. POS really. I'm not impressed.
 
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The Quick Hitch is what attaches the 54" blower to the front of my 2032R. POS really. I'm not impressed.
The front hitch was designed for garden tractors. It’s questionable on a one series. It’s way to light for the larger two series. It seems the tractors have gotten a bigger and more powerful over the years. But , Deere hasn’t upgraded the front hitch. I think this was done to try to keep the cost of the front blower down as it’s rather expensive and if the price goes up much most homeowners will skip the front blower.
 
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The Quick Hitch is what attaches the 54" blower to the front of my 2032R. POS really. I'm not impressed.
While it certainly could be improved, the hitch seems adequate for hanging a snow blower on. A snow blower does not generate a lot of force being pushed through the snow. But attaching a plow to this mount is just ridiculous.
 

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While it certainly could be improved, the hitch seems adequate for hanging a snow blower on. A snow blower does not generate a lot of force being pushed through the snow. But attaching a plow to this mount is just ridiculous.
For going straight thru fluff, yes. A lot of what I have to do is cleaning the snow plow berms off the side of the road, making the driving path a little wider. So, one side of the blower is into the packed snow. The weakness in the QH setup soon became very obvious to me. I do alternate sides of the road so the blower isn't always "tweaked" the same way.

The 37A snowthrower attachment to the 214 seems orders of magnitude better. Of course, since that was made, there have been about 40 yrs of bean counters cheapening things up.
 
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For going straight thru fluff, yes. A lot of what I have to do is cleaning the snow plow berms off the side of the road, making the driving path a little wider. So, one side of the blower is into the packed snow. The weakness in the QH setup soon became very obvious to me. I do alternate sides of the road so the blower isn't always "tweaked" the same way.

The 37A snowthrower attachment to the 214 seems orders of magnitude better. Of course, since that was made, there have been about 40 yrs of bean counters cheapening things up.
There is no question that using it in that manor exploits the weakness of the mount to the MAX. Any unbalanced force on the ends really puts a strain on the mount. That's why I can't believe they use the same mount for the 54" plow.
 

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There is no question that using it in that manor exploits the weakness of the mount to the MAX. Any unbalanced force on the ends really puts a strain on the mount. That's why I can't believe they use the same mount for the 54" plow.
Yep. The tractor's headed straight ahead and the blower's pointed off towards Jones's.
 

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There is no question that using it in that manor exploits the weakness of the mount to the MAX. Any unbalanced force on the ends really puts a strain on the mount. That's why I can't believe they use the same mount for the 54" plow.
Here's a little picture, hopefully worth 1000 words, describing what's going on. The snow is shown as pink as white doesn't show up too good.

On the left is going straight thru non-windblown snow. The snow is left to your imagination.

The center is trying to widen the road by removing part of the snow plow berm as I was doing yesterday, but on the other side of the road. The snowblower tweaks the mount to the left and therefore gets sucked farther into the berm. I tried to show the front wheels turned to counter act this.

The right sketch shows what happens when going along the previous cut trying to take out a little more. The snowblower tweaks the mount to the right and therefore won't cut into the bank. It just skids along beside it. Wheels are shown futilely turned towards the snow bank. At that point, I back up and come into the snow plow berm at an angle. Then we are back to the center sketch again.

I don't think it'll be too hard to tweak that front hitch in order to make it keep pointing straight ahead. My spring to do list keeps growing.

SB2.png
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I don't think it'll be too hard to tweak that front hitch in order to make it keep pointing straight ahead. My spring to do list keeps growing.

Is your hitch actually bent or does it just have a lot of play allowing it to tilt slightly?

My hitch has developed a bit of play even though it hasn't seen much heavy use. I determined that a lot of the play is in the attachment of the front section of the Quick Hitch to the main section. The part that would pivot back and forth if you had a blade. The whole thing is loosey-goosey. I took most of the play out of mine by replacing the tilt locking pin with a big bolt. The whole mount is now surprisingly rigid. Also, I noticed that a lot of the wiggle-play is actually coming from where the Quick Hitch attaches to the tractor brackets. I've included a few photos below.





Below you can see where the slots in the Quick Hitch bracket have worn already and this allows for a lot of slop in the whole assembly.

 

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Is your hitch actually bent or does it just have a lot of play allowing it to tilt slightly?

My hitch has developed a bit of play even though it hasn't seen much heavy use. I determined that a lot of the play is in the attachment of the front section of the Quick Hitch to the main section. The part that would pivot back and forth if you had a blade. The whole thing is loosey-goosey. I took most of the play out of mine by replacing the tilt locking pin with a big bolt. The whole mount is now surprisingly rigid. Also, I noticed that a lot of the wiggle-play is actually coming from where the Quick Hitch attaches to the tractor brackets. I've included a few photos below.





Below you can see where the slots in the Quick Hitch bracket have worn already and this allows for a lot of slop in the whole assembly.

Again, for the difference in cost even if it is half again as much for the front 3 pt hitch, to me, and no, I am not made of money, it makes more sence to me to have things heavy duty rather than what they have to save development tome and money. John deere even of 40 years ago would not have done this. In another 20 yesrs, if the bean counters don't relinquish thier strangle hold, LS or some other brand, will be number 1, rather than Deere. I feel thier management needs a wakeup call.

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Is your hitch actually bent or does it just have a lot of play allowing it to tilt slightly?
Not bent. Just a lot of slop (aka play) allowing it to "angle." The amount of angle that I showed in the sketches is not an exaggeration. Maybe even more angle than was in the sketch.

Thanks for the photos.

I took most of the play out of mine by replacing the tilt locking pin with a big bolt.
I'll try that next. To me, that's the "angle" locking pin. Even the Manufacturer' Opinion thinks so: IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Use locking pin to prevent front hitch from angling when using snowblower.
But no matter the terminology, that's a good idea to try. Thanks!
 
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