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Has JD redesigned the existing 47/54-inch front snow blower?

91K views 229 replies 33 participants last post by  Dan2900 
#1 ·
I came across a thread where folks were discussing a new parts list for the 47/54-inch front snow blower that shows a gearbox in place of the existing chain and sprockets. The serial number break looks like 100001- for the 54-inch and 180001- for the 47-inch blower.

These new parts lists are located at the URL shown below. I'm not seeing anything new yet in Parts Advisor.
John Deere Parts Catalog

If you browse the new lists you will also see that they are now listing some individual parts for the auger gear drive. Not everything but it looks like some seals, bearings and a replacement gearbox cover is now available.


Part Number:
AUC11644
Part Price:494.71 USD
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description:Parallel Shaft Gear Drive - PARALLEL SHAFT GEAR DRIVE, ENCLOSED

They are also showing a revised up-stop with a redesigned drive shaft shield and a place to mount a cleaning tool. Although I cannot find any actual part numbers for these items.

 

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#2 ·
Gearbox

Just bought a new gearbox this last week, the pinion bearing races where spinning in the casting, almost looks like it was machined this way, the races fell right out, the ring gear and pinion where showing a lot of chatter on the teeth, the blower has seen a lot of snow and abuse, had a couple of 47s and was able to rebuild them, 610.00 bucks, and the dealer had it on the shelf, they had some preseason discount and knocked off 98.63 off the price, happy with that, I have this on a 1025r and I have some drive train noise, everything is new accept the blower, noise goes away when your under a load, thought it was coming from the gearbox, new gearbox and the noise is still there, carrier bearings are new, but the gearbox on the pto gets warm when running the blower, the noise is really amplified through the cab, still under warranty but can't tie it up right now, any ideas ??
 
#3 ·
Just bought a new gearbox this last week, the pinion bearing races where spinning in the casting, almost looks like it was machined this way, the races fell right out, the ring gear and pinion where showing a lot of chatter on the teeth, the blower has seen a lot of snow and abuse, had a couple of 47s and was able to rebuild them, 610.00 bucks, and the dealer had it on the shelf, they had some preseason discount and knocked off 98.63 off the price, happy with that, I have this on a 1025r and I have some drive train noise, everything is new accept the blower, noise goes away when your under a load, thought it was coming from the gearbox, new gearbox and the noise is still there, carrier bearings are new, but the gearbox on the pto gets warm when running the blower, the noise is really amplified through the cab, still under warranty but can't tie it up right now, any ideas ??
If I understand what you are saying you bought a new auger gearbox for your 47-inch blower? In addition, you say your "PTO gearbox" gets hot? How old is your 47-inch snow blower? Way back when the 47-inch snow blower first came out it had a gearbox driving the impeller. Then they switched to a chain and sprockets and it has been that way for a long time. Now, new parts lists have emerged that seems to indicate they've gone back to having a gearbox driving the impeller.

So what exactly do you have?
 
#4 · (Edited)
John Deere Parts Catalog

They are also showing a revised up-stop with a redesigned drive shaft shield and a place to mount a cleaning tool. Although I cannot find any actual part numbers for these items.

[/QUOTE]John Deere Parts Catalog
This is the beveled gear drive unit replacing the chain drive.
It is upwards of 600 bucks.
My wonder is will you need to replace everything else to upgrade to this? I am sure it is to help aleviate the PTO shaft issue too.
Another retrograde update due to failed designs. UGH!!

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#5 ·
This is the beveled gear drive unit replacing the chain drive.
It is upwards of 600 bucks.
My wonder is will you need to replace everything else to upgrade to this? I am sure it is to help aleviate the PTO shaft issue too.
Another retrograde update due to failed designs. UGH!!
I looked up the part number for the rear gear box and it is $494. I suspect the new up-stop plate, PTO shield and associated hardware would be equally expensive.

Part Number:
AUC11644
Part Price: 494.71 USD
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description: Parallel Shaft Gear Drive - PARALLEL SHAFT GEAR DRIVE, ENCLOSED

I wouldn't really call the chain and sprockets a failed design. They've been using a chain and sprockets to drive the impeller on the front blower for decades and it has been surprisingly trouble free. Of those that fail a large number can be attributed to lack of proper maintenance.
 
#26 ·
Do you mean the gear box?
 
#37 ·
Can you post some photos of the install? How is the impeller shaft fastened to the back side of the gear drive? Any parts required other than the gearbox unit itself?
 
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#39 ·
I have no photos of the install, I removed the old chain and sprockets, then slid the auger out, if you are still running the plastic impeller you will need a collar that goes between the fan and the gearcase, I've been running a steel fan, put that in about 5 years ago, put the auger back in place, reuse the key that was on the rear sprocket and slid the gear box on to the shaft, make sure you fill the gearbox as it comes with no oil, you will need 4 m8x16 bolts part number 19m7865, install brace on auger and tighten all hardware, as far as the difference in weight, I have no idea what they change, looking through the oil check hole you can see the chain and it is a 50# it looks to be twice the size of the old one, this is a quite a improvement over the old setup, this blower used to do 60 to 70 driveways, now just used for sidewalks and a backup
 
#40 ·
I have no photos of the install, I removed the old chain and sprockets, then slid the auger out, if you are still running the plastic impeller you will need a collar that goes between the fan and the gearcase, I've been running a steel fan, put that in about 5 years ago, put the auger back in place, reuse the key that was on the rear sprocket and slid the gear box on to the shaft, make sure you fill the gearbox as it comes with no oil, you will need 4 m8x16 bolts part number 19m7865, install brace on auger and tighten all hardware, as far as the difference in weight, I have no idea what they change, looking through the oil check hole you can see the chain and it is a 50# it looks to be twice the size of the old one, this is a quite a improvement over the old setup, this blower used to do 60 to 70 driveways, now just used for sidewalks and a backup
Is it necessary to slide the auger assy out? It looks like you could just remove the sprockets from the rear and slide the gear case on the impeller shaft from the rear.
 
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#42 ·
How does the impeller shaft fasten to the gear box? There doesn't appear to be any locking rings or set screws. Or does the gearbox just slide over the impeller shaft? I see the collar you are referring to (#24). It appears to be a spacer. Wouldn't it be required for both the steel and poly impeller (I have the steel impeller). When using the gear case, is there a still a bearing and locking collar in the housing behind the impeller? See the highlighted parts below.

It is unclear if these parts are no longer used with the gear case or if JD just chose not to show them on the diagram. I assume it could be that the impeller shaft just passes back through the big hole in the housing and into the gear case, basically using the gear case as the support bearing.

Sorry for all the questions but so far you are the only one who has reported making this change and I know there are a lot of folks who are interested in doing something similar. With the price of the gear case reduced to $138 that now becomes very close to the cost of the chain, two sprockets and bearings. So anyone needing to replace worn sprockets and chain would be better off just installing the gear case.

726682


726683
 
#46 ·
It would be nice. I'd probably be more motivated if a chain and sprockets replacement was due. Makes it almost a no brainer. I'm still suspicious of why they changed gear case part numbers and lowered the price by $100. I mean, it's not even like they superseded the part number. They still show the more expensive part for S/N -109999 and the cheaper part for S/N 1100001-. (Apparently they didn't build a unit with S/N 110000). :)

It is crazy stupid how much this cleans up the blower design. Even from a future maintenance standpoint. All that crap in the back is gone and you eliminate three bearings.

Of course, the longevity of the gear case still remains to be seen. But I suspect it can't be any worse than the chain and non-concentric sprockets. :)
 
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#47 ·
If this is simple swap out? I would be very interested in this.. But I need more information and pictures would really be nice. I'm not seeing how the gearbox is attached where the small sprocket is located? I understand the rest I guess but in ordering this parallel gearbox what else must be ordered? I would also do this after the threat of winter is over,, say July! Will it also fit a 47" Older blower, circa 2015.. Thanks Jeff
 
#48 ·
Hey folks-

I swapped my plastic impeller out on my 54” snowblower for the metal one and replaced the exposed drive with the new enclosed drive (ordered the original P/N as my unit is below the S/N break but was told to use the newer lesser expensive P/N by Deere).

Sorry no working pics, was trying to beat the RAIN (wish we’d get snow this winter), but here’s the “after pics”. PTO shaft location and attachment is the same as is the impeller drive shaft location. Up stop will need to be removed in order to change the unit’s oil as the fill plug is blocked by it.

Unit seems to be quieter (could just be my head). I do notice more movement when running the machine raised. Also noted today that when just running the unit on the ground I get some vibration which can make the drift knives vibrate a bit. The snowblower has 2 hours of use on it. We’ll see!




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#49 ·
Hey folks-

I swapped my plastic impeller out on my 54” snowblower for the metal one and replaced the exposed drive with the new enclosed drive (ordered the original P/N as my unit is below the S/N break but was told to use the newer lesser expensive P/N by Deere).
Thank you for the photos. That adds some more detail and raises more questions. It appears that in addition to the gear case and four mounting bolts, a new Front Drive and Reinforcement Kit may be required. At a minimum, the gear case requires a new metal shield (see red arrow below). This part is not shown in the 47/54-inch blower parts illustrations. I think I found the correct cover in the 2025R attachments section. The cover alone is P/N LVA21911 and costs $151. It's not clear if this cover is compatible with other tractors.

726706


726708


Another possible difference is the location of the drive shaft attachment point. It could just be camera angles but to my eyes the drive shaft input is positioned farther to the right as compared to the input shaft on the small sprocket. (see below)

726707
 
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#50 ·
Happy to try and help. I reused my front drive reinforcement kit that was on the blower with the exposed chain drive (I have a gen II 2025R). In a perfect world, the new version of this kit, if still required, would accommodate the fill plug location.

Before I tore apart my original setup, I did measure the input shaft location to the old sprocket and checked that against my current setup to ensure drive-line alignment. My measurements were the same before and after (exposed vs enclosed). PTO shaft is perfectly lined up between the enclosed drive unit and the front PTO.

Thinking about the front drive reinforcement kit; now that the drive box unit (technically not a gearbox I guess) has its own housing, is there really a need for a reinforcement kit? Previously, the stresses of the Chain drive would be transferred to the back of the blower housing rather than being contained in the metal case of the enclosed chain drive. Thoughts?


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#51 ·
Happy to try and help. I reused my front drive reinforcement kit that was on the blower with the exposed chain drive (I have a gen II 2025R). In a perfect world, the new version of this kit, if still required, would accommodate the fill plug location.

Before I tore apart my original setup, I did measure the input shaft location to the old sprocket and checked that against my current setup to ensure drive-line alignment. My measurements were the same before and after (exposed vs enclosed). PTO shaft is perfectly lined up between the enclosed drive unit and the front PTO.
It must just be the camera angles then. It is unclear if there is a newer version of the cover. The Gen-2 2025R parts illustration only shows the one. I seem to recall seeing yet another back cover somewhere that had one of those black chute unclogging tools attached to it but for the life of me I cannot find it again.

Thinking about the front drive reinforcement kit; now that the drive box unit (technically not a gearbox I guess) has its own housing, is there really a need for a reinforcement kit? Previously, the stresses of the Chain drive would be transferred to the back of the blower housing rather than being contained in the metal case of the enclosed chain drive. Thoughts? [/ QUOTE]

You may very well be right. It makes sense. To be honest I’ve never fully understood the purpose of the reinforcement and upstop kits. I think I would still feel more comfortable with the extra support the cover provides to avoid any undue stress on the chain case cover.
 
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#56 ·
I have no vibration with my install, the blower runs smoother and quiet, all you need is the new gearcase auc16953, 4 m8x16 bolts 19m7865 and the spacer if you have a plastic impeller blade part number t241424, I have a steel impeller so I did not need the spacer, these blowers are now coming with this updated gearbox, the only difference I see would be the driveshaft depending on what tractor you have
 
#57 ·
I have the X738 2015 model and steel impeller. Interesting reading but on line I get no help at all for parts outside of the gearbox and recommended bushing you mentioned. No mention of a new driveshaft but I am headed to the dealer this week so time will tell and they better not tell me I need a new driveshaft! I just got one for free from a college that converted all their JD machines to Kubota! I hate the sprocket adjustment and noise I have now even with the new custom made large sprocket it still wobbles and I'm sure eventually it will wreck the front gear box and bearing as that drive ahs to be moving around all the time it runs, tight then lose.... the only thing holding that all together is the bearing on the bulkhead on the blower... The gearcase seems to be a solid stay in place unit and I like that design. Thanks Jeff
 
#64 ·
can anyone who has completed this change over tell me if the gear ratio has changed with this enclosed chain drive box? That may make a huge difference in performance.. Thanks.. seems I can not stop thinking about this!!! I may just have to take it apart when I get it to see what's inside! Auto chain tensioner? Maybe not necessary? Sorry guys.
 
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#65 ·
Few things after reading through:

1. I note the vibration with the blower running with no load (no snow). I’m pretty sure it’ll disappear under a load (my 655 and 47 blower has always vibrated the tractor a bit just running with no snow).

2. I tried to install the bushing when I upgraded my unit but due to the weld in the impeller housing I couldn’t get enough room to fit the metal impeller into the blower with the bushing. My unit has no bushing (previously another member mentioned metal impellers may not equate the bushing, I can at least confirm mine has no bushing and no failure yet).

3. All the same PTO shafts are used as the original setup

4. Unsure in the ratio between input and output RPM. Once we get some snow here in CT maybe I can attest that the mods actually improved the machine’s improvement (still love my 47” blower on my 655)

Good luck! As they say mileage may vary.


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#66 ·
Few things after reading through:

2. I tried to install the bushing when I upgraded my unit but due to the weld in the impeller housing I couldn’t get enough room to fit the metal impeller into the blower with the bushing. My unit has no bushing (previously another member mentioned metal impellers may not equate the bushing, I can at least confirm mine has no bushing and no failure yet).
What do you think the purpose of the bushing is? Does it end up going in the opening in the housing previously occupied by the impeller shaft bearing? Does it just act as a thrust bearing of sorts for any rear movement of the impeller to give it something to ride against since the bearing is removed? Since JD has been using the poly impeller for quite some time you won't find a parts diagram showing the steel impeller and enclosed chain case.

I got to thinking about my earlier question concerning the need to remove the auger. Knowing now that you have to remove the impeller bearing and associated retainer plates, it would seem you have to remove the auger and impeller to gain access to the carriage bolts that secure the impeller bearing retainer plates.


726837


Looking at the images of the chain case, I see there is what appears to be an adjusting bolt on the back side. I wonder if this is some kind of tension adjustment bolt?

726839
 
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#79 ·
How does it compare to throwing snow to the original contraption? Thanks..
 
#99 ·
here you go JG, sorry if they are not great pics,, cheap phone! You can see the output shaft is not flush like the older unit and that's probably why the bushing is not needed.
727379
727380
727381
 
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#100 ·
here you go JG, sorry if they are not great pics,, cheap phone! You can see the output shaft is not flush like the older unit and that's probably why the bushing is not needed.
PERFECT!!

That puts the bushing issue to rest. The previous gear box did not have the protrusion. It has nothing to do with plastic vs. steel impeller. Here they are side-by-side.

727387


Thanks again for the photos!
 
#102 ·
I think he was asking how much because he has to go buy oil. No one wants to make multiple trips. :)
 
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#105 ·
Thanks,, that's exactly what I wanted to know...
 
#107 ·
Has anyone seen anywhere what the odd-ball bolt on the bottom edge of the case is for? The manual makes no mention of it in the maintenance section. Could it be a drain plug?

727736
 
#114 ·
When I ask the dealer to fix the very eccentric sprockets on my brand new ('18 model sold to me in '19) blower in the spring... under warranty, I may suggest they look at this option. Wonder what they'll do.
 
#115 ·
As mine did with my past experience with the blower,,, Balk... proceed to second.
 
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#116 · (Edited)
JG
I did the change over today,, went well but not totally impressed. No snow so I don't know how that will go but the noise from this unit is no better than the sprockets and chain, (which I cleaned up and saved).. Sings along pretty good and it has a vibration, more so as you throttle it up. I can feel it in the floor.. The drive shaft is about 1/2" off center now, and towards the right looking at the blower from the rear on the X738. May need a new driveshaft, mine is from 2015 and they do wear at the quick connect joint, that may be the vibration? Not in to much of a hurry to get that back up on the lift to change, spring is right around the corner....,, I did receive one free but it's the wrong shaft to short by about 3-4" It's part number AM132904 on the box,, free to a good home,, pre-greased! Here are three pics of the changeout,, not much to photograph! It is full of oil too... I also did not use the bushing and by moving the impeller you can get the three bolts out that hold the bearing flange in place.
Before the changeout. 2nd pick with new chain case installed and you can use the old top piece. I see no need to buy that other piece for protection. 3rd is the final product ready to go back on the tractor. All cleaned up and silicone sprayed. Sorry about the blurry 1st pic.

728437

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#117 ·
JG
I did the change over today,, went well but not totally impressed. No snow so I don't know how that will go but the noise from this unit is no better than the sprockets and chain, (which I cleaned up and saved).. Sings along pretty good and it has a vibration, more so as you throttle it up. I can feel it in the floor.. The drive shaft is about 1/2" off center now, and towards the right looking at the blower from the rear on the X738.
Looks good. Did you have to loosen the impeller and slide it forward? If so, did you then slide it back until it made contact with the gear case output shaft or is there a gap between the output shaft and impeller?

Also, did you have to loosen anything up to get the gear case to slide onto the impeller shaft smoothly?

Given that the position of the small sprocket can change depending on where you have the sprocket bracket, I can see where the exact position of the drive shaft could change with the gear case. A worn or stretched chain would have required the adjustment bracket to be moved to the left whereas the position of the input shaft on the gear case if fixed.

About how much oil did it take? Did you loosen that one bottom bolt to see if it is indeed a drain plug?
 
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#125 ·
BTW... remember how JD Parts was showing the old gear case as discontinued? I see they have now updated the parts illustrations as well. So no more bushings.

728519
 
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#127 ·
Well the bushing I ordered will probably make a nice heavy duty washer for something!
 
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#132 ·
Hi all, thanks for this thread. I took my snowblower off to inspect it and realized how bad the chain and sprockets have become. I started looking at replacing pieces when I ran across this thread. I picked up the gearbox this morning and installed it tonight after work.

This thread helped me realize how much I needed to remove to make it fit right. Once everything was removed the gearbox was pretty much plug and play.

I've attached a picture to show fan shaft stripped down to right before I slid the gearbox on and all the parts it replaced.

Al


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#133 ·
Hi all, thanks for this thread. I took my snowblower off to inspect it and realized how bad the chain and sprockets have become. I started looking at replacing pieces when I ran across this thread. I picked up the gearbox this morning and installed it tonight after work.

This thread helped me realize how much I needed to remove to make it fit right. Once everything was removed the gearbox was pretty much plug and play.

I've attached a picture to show fan shaft stripped down to right before I slid the gearbox on and all the parts it replaced.
So you were able to install your gear box without loosening the auger?
 
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#134 ·
Yep. I unbolted the impeller and moved it forward so I could get the carriage bolts out of the bearing, but that's it.

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#135 · (Edited)
Yep. I unbolted the impeller and moved it forward so I could get the carriage bolts out of the bearing, but that's it.

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How does it sound now that you have it installed and do you get any rocking or side to side movement in the blower?
At 145 bucks I just ordered another one from Bodensteiner (just in case) along with a new driveshaft. I think these are all going to be different on the install because of the set up at the factory. You are right though, plug and play,, simple install.
 
#136 ·
I haven't run it yet. After I installed the gearbox I called it a night. I'll finish reconnecting the PTO tonight and get oil in the gearbox, then I should be good for a test run. Regardless, it has to be quieter than the old sprockets and bad bearings.
 
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#137 ·
I ran it for a little bit tonight. It is probably a little bit quieter, but not much. It definitely sounds smoother and tighter though. There was a little bit of side-to-side movement but nothing alarming. When it engaged snow it sounded and felt very solid.

It will be interesting to see how it changes as the chain stretches a bit and wears in. With no way to tighten it I wonder how it will change.

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#138 ·
I ran it for a little bit tonight. It is probably a little bit quieter, but not much. It definitely sounds smoother and tighter though. There was a little bit of side-to-side movement but nothing alarming. When it engaged snow it sounded and felt very solid.

It will be interesting to see how it changes as the chain stretches a bit and wears in. With no way to tighten it I wonder how it will change.

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Thanks for the return comments, I'm not nuts then; the sound is not disturbing but not much quieter either, it's a different sound though, like you said, smoother and tighter. I can't wait to see what it does with snow as far as sending it as far as the original set up did. It should by the ratio. I just bought another gearcase because I'm one of those people who has to have a spare,, it would take no time to change one of these out in case of a breakdown.. I have to wonder how quick a #50 chain with sprockets bathed in oil constantly will wear down? I'm sure these will last longer than any exposed chain and sprocket drive, and it will be much cleaner for sure.. Time will tell.
Thanks for the post ,, others are reading intently, and for 145 bucks and free shipping, totally worth the effort to change over. I also ordered a new driveshaft and what kills me is the driveshaft was 321 bucks yet this case is only 145????
Doesn't make sense... Jeff
 
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