X2I can't see much securing being done in those photos ... Never secure the tractor by attaching to the loader. Straps/chains on the loader are to secure the loader or equipment, not the tractor. The loader or attachment is only held in place by the hydraulics. Leakage or a burst hose will make for a bad day. I always use a single binder to each corner of the tractor, plus another strap for the loader or attachment.
I would add to #7 to make sure any implements on the front or rear of the tractor like loader and bucket, backhoe, or any three point hitch attachment to have it's own chain or strap as well per DOT guidelines.Check your manual. It will specify loading it facing the rear. It seems that JD does not trust it's hood latch. Back it on, strap it down on all four corners and get on the road. If you are using a pull type trailer (not gooseneck), check your load position for proper tongue weight.
Dave
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The issue is like the captain of a ship... The driver is responsible for the vehicle AND the load. If neighbors tractor falls off YOUR vehicle, YOU are responsible for any damage to a third party. Responsible for the damage to the tractor when it departs the vehicle, I don't know since neighbor secured it.My tractor in the rear facing to the rear as called for in the manual. All four corners strapped down plus a strap over the loader bucket. Actually my bucket was sitting on my forks. My neighbor's JD 720LP is loaded facing forward so most of his weight is to the rear. Those old Johnny Poppers were much heavier in the rear plus he had wheel weights on the outside and inside of the wheels. And I was still over on the rear axle of the pickup. Neither of us had any idea of how JD specified the loading direction of that 720. I was not happy with how he strapped his down, but that was his choice.
Tim do you have any pictures of how you secure your card board?I agree with all the recommendations for rear-facing, securing each corner and attachment separately, and exhaust pipe blocking. I recommend some sort of protection for whichever glass face is forward.
Something kicked up off the road on one trip that turned my original rear window entirely into 1/4" cubes - still finding 1 or 2, even 6 years later.
Now whenever the tractor is transported, I cover the rear window with a 3 layer piece of thick cardboard - fitted to rest on the SMV bracket and wrap around to the corners, secured with a strap through the door hinges.
The good news is that replacing the rear window is actually not that difficult - UPS will deliver one right to your location.
Tim