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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking at purchasing a 3 series with cab, for those of you hauling a cab tractor around do you cover your glass and if so what do you use? Can you post pictures of your setup please?
 

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I have never covered any glass.
I pull mine down the interstate at interstate speeds plus a little.
790687

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I towed a 3720 cabbed TLB machine from MA to MD ~400 miles, never covered the glass.

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I went to Denver and back same day for this one.
That's 16+ hours round trip.
This machine might actually hold some sort of tractor speed records.
Probably not many cab tractors that have seen triple digit speeds, even if they were being pulled. :p 😁

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I asked the same question when I bought my 3720 last year. I backed it on the trailer and taped up the exhaust for the turbo. That is up for debate and I’m not trying to start anything. I just say whatever makes you happy. The only issue with covering the glass is trying not to scratch the machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Appreciate your feedback. My cousin does custom chopping and they have busted/chipped the glass multiple times over the years on both their JD and Claas choppers. He has a dedicated cover specifically made for it that they use most of the time now. I do know they go down a fair amount of gravel roads as well so that may be where they are breaking the glass. Sounds like I won't need to worry about covering it at this point.
 
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Check your manual. It will specify loading it facing the rear. It seems that JD does not trust it's hood latch. Back it on, strap it down on all four corners and get on the road. If you are using a pull type trailer (not gooseneck), check your load position for proper tongue weight.

Dave

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The manual for my XUV 855d says the same thing, i.e. load it on the trailer facing backward, even though the hood hinges on the front.

I really don’t like it when instructions tell you to do something in a specific way, but don’t tell you why.

I’ve always loaded my tractors and XUV facing forward simply because I find it much easier to drive forward onto the trailer rather than trying to back up into it.
 

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I can't see much securing being done in those photos ... Never secure the tractor by attaching to the loader. Straps/chains on the loader are to secure the loader or equipment, not the tractor. The loader or attachment is only held in place by the hydraulics. Leakage or a burst hose will make for a bad day. I always use a single binder to each corner of the tractor, plus another strap for the loader or attachment.
 

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I can't see much securing being done in those photos ... Never secure the tractor by attaching to the loader. Straps/chains on the loader are to secure the loader or equipment, not the tractor. The loader or attachment is only held in place by the hydraulics. Leakage or a burst hose will make for a bad day. I always use a single binder to each corner of the tractor, plus another strap for the loader or attachment.
X2



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I might agree with that, if the loader was up in the air, but with the loader down and then being strapped down and being that it is very securely bolted to the frame of the tractor, I am betting that if that loader manages to come off the trailer, the tractor went with it. I don't see that as an issue myself.
 
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My tractor in the rear facing to the rear as called for in the manual. All four corners strapped down plus a strap over the loader bucket. Actually my bucket was sitting on my forks. My neighbor's JD 720LP is loaded facing forward so most of his weight is to the rear. Those old Johnny Poppers were much heavier in the rear plus he had wheel weights on the outside and inside of the wheels. And I was still over on the rear axle of the pickup. Neither of us had any idea of how JD specified the loading direction of that 720. I was not happy with how he strapped his down, but that was his choice.

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Another concern if it has a turbo is the direction of the exhaust. You don't want forced air entering the exhaust on a turbo engine. Best to cap it if it is loaded with the exhaust forward.
 
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Check your manual. It will specify loading it facing the rear. It seems that JD does not trust it's hood latch. Back it on, strap it down on all four corners and get on the road. If you are using a pull type trailer (not gooseneck), check your load position for proper tongue weight.

Dave

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I would add to #7 to make sure any implements on the front or rear of the tractor like loader and bucket, backhoe, or any three point hitch attachment to have it's own chain or strap as well per DOT guidelines.
 

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I agree with all the recommendations for rear-facing, securing each corner and attachment separately, and exhaust pipe blocking. I recommend some sort of protection for whichever glass face is forward.

Something kicked up off the road on one trip that turned my original rear window entirely into 1/4" cubes - still finding 1 or 2, even 6 years later.

Now whenever the tractor is transported, I cover the rear window with a 3 layer piece of thick cardboard - fitted to rest on the SMV bracket and wrap around to the corners, secured with a strap through the door hinges.

The good news is that replacing the rear window is actually not that difficult - UPS will deliver one right to your location.

Tim
 

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My tractor in the rear facing to the rear as called for in the manual. All four corners strapped down plus a strap over the loader bucket. Actually my bucket was sitting on my forks. My neighbor's JD 720LP is loaded facing forward so most of his weight is to the rear. Those old Johnny Poppers were much heavier in the rear plus he had wheel weights on the outside and inside of the wheels. And I was still over on the rear axle of the pickup. Neither of us had any idea of how JD specified the loading direction of that 720. I was not happy with how he strapped his down, but that was his choice.
The issue is like the captain of a ship... The driver is responsible for the vehicle AND the load. If neighbors tractor falls off YOUR vehicle, YOU are responsible for any damage to a third party. Responsible for the damage to the tractor when it departs the vehicle, I don't know since neighbor secured it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I agree with all the recommendations for rear-facing, securing each corner and attachment separately, and exhaust pipe blocking. I recommend some sort of protection for whichever glass face is forward.

Something kicked up off the road on one trip that turned my original rear window entirely into 1/4" cubes - still finding 1 or 2, even 6 years later.

Now whenever the tractor is transported, I cover the rear window with a 3 layer piece of thick cardboard - fitted to rest on the SMV bracket and wrap around to the corners, secured with a strap through the door hinges.

The good news is that replacing the rear window is actually not that difficult - UPS will deliver one right to your location.

Tim
Tim do you have any pictures of how you secure your card board?
 
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