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Discussion Starter #1
2950 deere.... in out here pulling a 8ft offset getting ready for oats. Tractors factory gauge just goes higher then normal I’ll post a picture, I do see that someone has replaced the water pump at one time. I can sit and let it idle and gauge doesn’t really do much. Pulled over and sprayed water on the radiator for a bit and it slowly went down. Going by the picture I’d like to hear some opinions. I also know a factory gauge isn’t the best. I’d like to replace this with a aftermarket... would y’all recommend a coolant gauge or a pyro gauge? Its about 100 degrees outside which shouldn’t matter. The last picture is how much the gauge dropped after spraying water letting it sit.
 

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Clean your radiator.... Ask me how I know these things.

Dave
 

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Either blow air from back to front or spray water same way to clean out your radiator .

:dunno:
 

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Well guys the radiator and fins are pretty clean and straight unless it’s inside the radiator, maybe some gunk?.... I stopped to take a break from plowing about an hour ago but the temp gauge suddenly went down during operation.... possibly a sticky thermostat?

For a accurate temp would you guys get water temp gauge or a Pyro? It’s a little different then my old 7.3, on that truck forum they preach pyro gauges over water. Those are quite expensive 2-300, still have yet to get one for that 7.3... water gauge probably should work. I see a spot on the side of the motor where the heater lines come from. Maybe Plug it in somewhere around that area...
 

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It sounds like you may have a bad sensor or gauge since temperature dropped suddenly for no reason. I would recommend repairing original gauge or installing a new independent coolant gauge. Have you checked wiring to sensor ans into back of gauge cluster? I would install the sensor in the cylinder head instead of the block. If engine were turbocharged, then a pyrometer would be of more value. A naturally aspirated engine rarely overheats exhaust unless engine is lugged below normal operating speeds for extended periods.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It sounds like you may have a bad sensor or gauge since temperature dropped suddenly for no reason. I would recommend repairing original gauge or installing a new independent coolant gauge. Have you checked wiring to sensor ans into back of gauge cluster? I would install the sensor in the cylinder head instead of the block. If engine were turbocharged, then a pyrometer would be of more value. A naturally aspirated engine rarely overheats exhaust unless engine is lugged below normal operating speeds for extended periods.
I believe it’s the sensor or gauge like you say. Eh I just got done plowing. Towards the end my tractors hydraulics were gone. Had to have it at a high rpm to lift the disc and loader to make it back. When I made it back to the place this light on the dash was flashing. I’ll post a picture. My manual says that’s it’s either low on fluid or the filter is stopped up. Now.... the tractor has about 3 different hydraulic leaks so I would say ok it’s low. I pull the dip stick out and it’s above the full mark (can tell previous owner changed fluids like he said he did very clean fluids) so I think to myself. Leave the dipstick out for a little bit (30 seconds) then Check the level Incase fluid is in the tube. Did that and it still shows above full. Honestly idk, I guess I’ll take the dipstick out tomorrow when I’m not quite as tired and wait several minutes to make sure everything has drained back down before I stick the dipstick back in. .

I don’t want to jump to conclusions because that’s what I always do and end up wasting money. But the pump in front of the motor was making a slight knocking sound. If it’s low on fluid or the filter is stopped up... may not be getting fluid. It was working fine up until the last round (go figure)

... oh I just wanted to run a offset on the place before I disked it with the harrow. Need to go ahead and sell that offset. 8ft doesn’t cover enough ground and it’s very bumpy when your closing the end and have to turn over what you plowed.... have that tractor hell today. Would be very happy if it fixed itself when I wake up in the morning lol.
 

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a lot going on in your posts...

first off i would check thermostat or remove temporarily ....obviously check coolant....obviously clean radiator ....then consider other things... FWIW 90% of the time its gunk in the radiator fins sometimes its not easy to see

second....the hydraulics..since you seem to have fluid you probably have a blockage and a blockage would generate heat in the hyraulic system which would contribute to the overheating problem since the hydraulic radiator is usually right in front of the coolant radiator.....first stop is checking filters and screens.....you also said your hearing knocks to me that is a bad thing like over pressure etc, low fluid tends to make hi-pitched whineing noises due to lack of pump load

third....been wondering how you and the new discs have been faring and your thoughts on how they are performing

4th...how is your ac working it could also be contributing to the engine heat due to the condenser being infront of the radiator also
 

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If your hydraulics are overfull, that in itself could be causing the problem.

Dave
 

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Just to add, just because the hydraulic fluid looks clean on dipstick, doesn't mean it's clean.

Just got through changing fluid and filter in my 3020. Checking dipstick, fluid made no noticable difference, looked new, cleaned off with rag, looked clean.

I was surprised how dark it was in the tub I drained it in to. My screen filter wasn't plugged at all.

After changing, my loader and power steering operate smoother than they have in the 20 years I've owned it.

Dealer prepped tractor for sale back in 1999, that's when I bought it. Date on hydraulic filter was February 1999. I'd only put about ~400 hours max on this tractor. I'll probably switch to 10 year interval at the latest now?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I believe the engine just has a bad sensor or old factory gauge that bounces. I will get a new one before next summer and mount it somewhere in the cab. Its a non turbo machine, so like the fella above said I’ll just get a water temp gauge. Outer appearance the radiator is clean. Nothing clogged.

Tazzman- I’m moving this post to a new thread about the hydraulic problems I’m having and i will explain what I did this morning.
 
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